A518 Overdrive Questions

[PlumCrazyChris]

Then just check for the hole drilled in the intermediate shaft?  If its there, I'm good to go right?  If its not there, can I just go ahead and drill it as it sits? 

I don't suppose theres any way to keep the metal out of it, I heard some grease on the drill bit, but that doesn't sound like a sure fire solution.  Maybe a magnet and some brake cleaner? 

Any suggestions?  I certainly don't want to take the whole thing apart, I'd never get it back together...or apart for that matter.

Can it be flushed out the end of the shaft?

Thanks again Terry!
Chris

[tactransman]

You can blow air into the rear cooler line fitting while you are drilling and it will blow it out as it drills. (use shop safety glasses though!) 

[PlumCrazyChris]

I'll try that.  Will it blow it right out the end of the shaft?

Thanks,
Chris

[tactransman]

Yes,it will blow out of every hole that is exposed. The intermediate shaft is hollow and every lube hole in it is fed from the middle of it.

[PlumCrazyChris]

Terry, whats the diameter of that hole?  you may have posted it before, but I couldn't find it.

Thanks,
Chris

[tactransman]

7/64th or 1/8th inch will do.

[ragtopdodge]

Well, the slapstic is not going to be quite so easy.  It would probably be best to use a cable to actuate the shifter.  I was planning trimming my case to fit the tunnel today.  I've tried to mock up the stock linkage, but the shaft appears to have to pass directly through the edge of the trans case.  Trimming won't work with that.  I'm wondering if I can either bend the shaft to pass around the case, or cut a notch in the shaft and weld a bypass loop of sorts to get around the case.  installing a pivot mount doesn't seem to be much of a problem.  It looks like I can just mount a fabricated mount to one of the case bolts.  Theres not much stress on the mount. 

Since you fabbing the mount anyway, you  might be able to just move it out so the shaft is at an angle, but then the arm that the linkage attaches to will not have the same arc of motion and may through off the shift points.  Some earlier A-body linkages had adjustable arms to fine tune the shift points. If I can get one of those setups, thats the way I would try it. 

You really can't get it figured out until its installed.   But the cable is very likely the best way to make it work, but that is still not quite straightforward, because the linkage arms are not the same length and therefore not the same ratio from the slapstic linkage to the trans shift linkage.  But it would probably work out fine.   

If anyone else is near this stage of the conversion and has some ideas, please let me know. 

Chris

What's the latest on the slap stick retrofit?

[ShelbyDogg]

What's the latest on the slap stick retrofit?

You didn't read page 1 for my post on this, did you Ragtop?

[PlumCrazyChris]

The linkage has been worked out.  Its quite simple.  The rotating shaft from the stock linkage goes down from the top as usual, but the  width of the trans forces it to the drivers side slightly.  You have to fab a new pivot bracket for the bottom of the rotating shaft, and then hook the rest of the stock linkage up as normal. 

Thats all there is to it.  I don't think a new pivot bracket will be hard at all to fab out of the old one, and I'll just mount it to an existing bolt, probably a pan bolt, or two. 

Make sure to get a new factory rubber covered steel gasket for the pan.  They are really excellent and looks like there is no way for them to leak.

Chris

[tactransman]

If you go with the newer style rubber/plastic style pan gasket,I recommend that you go with longer pan bolts than the factory 727 ones. They will try to pull the threads due to less engagement to the case because of the thicker gasket. 

[PlumCrazyChris]

Has this thread been Archived?  If not, could it be?

[ragtopdodge]

Can someone identify this trans?  The seller posted this pic.

I'm looking for a 3-wire, non-lockup, but not sure from this pic, if this is the 9-wire computer-controlled one or not.

[tactransman]

That is a RE (computer controlled)

[tactransman]

Oh........... and a non lock up will be a 2 wire.

[ShelbyDogg]

A 3 wire (od with a lockup converter)  wouldn't be a bad find either. I had one in my jeep Grand Cherokee that was still working well at 169,000 miles when I sold it. When the lock up clicked in, it felt like a 5th gear shift.