Author Topic: condensor (Read 6807 times)

MEK-Dangerfield · « **Reply #15 on:** August 14, 2006 - 02:35:48 PM »

I don't think this is a grounding issue. Your temp/gas/ oil pressure gauges get their ground from that black wire coming from the voltage limiter. All 3 are linked together.

Question #1, are you saying the temp. gauge doesn't move at all, even after driving, or does it just stay low?

Question #2, Have you checked out the sending unit to your gas gauge. I have a feeling that might be your problem there. Let me know if you need help in how to check it out.

As for the oil pressure gauge, from your description, it sounds like it is normal. Low pressure at idle, and it climbs some when you speed up.

Mike

sleepychallenger · « **Reply #16 on:** August 16, 2006 - 08:08:26 AM »

Answer #1, The temp guage moves from the bottom of the C to the top of the C. If I shut the car off after running for a while and then turn the key to the on position the temp guage moves to the correct temp reading. Once I start the car again the guage will go all the way up then back down to the C and stay there.

Answer #2, I have not checked the sending unit. I am not completely sure how to do this. We took the sending unit out of a tank that had been sitting for quite a while. Note: Sending unit does not have the sock on it so I can only pull 12 gal out of the tank.

Oil pressure gauge: the lowering and climbing isnt really what I am worried about. When I start the car one time it will read up where it is suppoesed to, after I turn it off and start it again it will read somewhere else and that will be the top of the travel, shut it off again and start it and it will read in another place for the top of the travel. sometimes the top of the travel is closer to the top sometimes it is closer to the bottom. all of these positions can be done within starting and shutting down within 10-15 min.

Please Advise

Drew

Bullitt- · « **Reply #17 on:** August 16, 2006 - 05:04:17 PM »

Drew, These gauges work by varying the voltage through the ground side, works kind like a slot car the higher the pressure or temp. the tighter the trigger is being pulled. I would start by removing the sending units & cleaning the treads on the units & in the block and intake, also clean & polish the connections on the wire side & see if it makes any difference. Could be the whole problem or you may have a faulty or poorly installed voltage limiter, poor connections somewhere along the line.

sleepychallenger · « **Reply #18 on:** August 16, 2006 - 05:25:48 PM »

thanks, I will try that. most of the wiring is brand new.

MEK-Dangerfield · « **Reply #19 on:** August 17, 2006 - 02:58:07 PM »

Yeah,

I'm at a loss here. The voltage limiter would be the obvious guess since it involves the gauges in question. With the way the temp. and oil pressure gauges are acting, possibly it could be sending unit related on all counts, but... I truely don't get the temp gauge going up right away, then settling down.

Mike

Bullitt- · « **Reply #20 on:** August 17, 2006 - 07:20:17 PM »

Read this 3 times before you blast me!

Mike, I have seen a temp. gauge or two act like I think Drew's does and I have always believed this, (where this idea came from I don't remember maybe a MADMAN). After operating the motor and it comes up to normal temp. & you shut it down the temp. actually rises from the heat down in the motor, when you first refire the coolant in the intake may be a little cooler than that in the heads & block so initial temp. reading is normal but soon rises to reflect the hotter coolant coming from lower down. Then as the coolant begins to circulate you get some from the radiator that may be cooler & thus the gauge is pulled back down until you get a consistent temp. when it settles back to normal.

PlumCrazy · « **Reply #21 on:** August 18, 2006 - 02:20:48 AM »

Quote from: sleepychallenger on August 14, 2006 - 06:48:07 AM

I replaced the limiter already and when i unplug the condensor nothing happens

Does this means no change or everything is dead? Condensor not in the circuit should not make the gauges stop working.

FY1 RT SE · « **Reply #22 on:** August 18, 2006 - 02:35:25 AM »

Quote from: bullitt99 on August 14, 2006 - 07:15:12 AM

solution to voltage limiter problems
http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical2.html
The condenser I believe is to cut down on radio interference, basically a noise suppressor.

http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=19218.msg192217;topicseen#msg192217

Keep in mind that original factory wiring is rated at 175 degrees.

sleepychallenger · « **Reply #23 on:** August 18, 2006 - 12:47:02 PM »

quick reply this time.

Plumcrazy -- this means no change

Bullitt99 -- the guage only goes to a higher mark when the key is in the on position (not started) and slowly moves down. 2 seconds later when I start the car the guage pins all the way up then quickly moves down to the C even if the car is still hot and has been running for an hour.

I was thinking about it last night

and I was wondering, could that black wire that connects the three guages have a bad connection and be causing this. Could my connection at the bulkhead be causing this? Could this all be because of the sending units? I am really getting frustrated every day when I get in and start driving. the only thing that is working right is the clock and the speedo. I know this isnt really quick but it is when you think about how long it takes to type.

Drew

BTW... Thanks for the note FY1. I have already suffered one meltdown of the dashwiring..literally

Bullitt- · « **Reply #24 on:** August 18, 2006 - 05:35:03 PM »

Drew, That does not seem to go with my scenario, but I googled this at Mopar Muscle

If all three gauges simultaneously jump to full/high for a few seconds and then settle back to their original readings, the problem is probably the Instrument Voltage Regulator (IVR). (To upgrade your IVR to modern electronics, see the November 1992 issue of Mopar Muscle.) These separate IVRs should attach to the gas gauge on cars with Rallye Instrument clusters, and beside the speedometer on other models. The IVR has a heated bi-metal bar similar to those found in the gauges. As the bar moves, it forces a set of points open and closed to provide a steady flow of electricity to the gauge. The instruments see it as an average of five volts, what they were designed for. If the contact points stay open too long, you�ll see simultaneous low readings, and if they stay closed too long, you�ll see simultaneous high readings. If your regulator is built into the gas gauge, you�ll probably have to have it professionally repaired.

for the whole article go to http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/23241_instrument_gauges_repair/

PlumCrazy · « **Reply #25 on:** August 19, 2006 - 12:11:31 AM »

Have you tried disconnecting the gauges one at a time?

Todd Smith · « **Reply #26 on:** August 19, 2006 - 08:11:42 AM »

Hey PlumbCrazy
I registered as Plumbcrazy after you- Sorry I didn't mean to steal the handle. You were here first. I can change up if you like. I guess the system is case sensitive.
Todd

sleepychallenger · « **Reply #27 on:** August 19, 2006 - 03:57:55 PM »

ok, the fuel guage is pretty much working. It goes to the 1/2 mark when I get a full tank. the temp guage is like not working at all. (like). and the oil guage reading changes every time that I start the car.I am going to get a new oil and temp sender today to see if that will help. I will let everyone know on monday. yes i tried disconnecting them one by one. The guages just got back from being rebuilt and recalibrated. but with all 3 guages doing something different i cant see how it would be the IVR.

sleepychallenger · « **Reply #28 on:** August 21, 2006 - 06:43:46 AM »

ok all. I changed the temp and oil sending units. the oil guage is working correctly

the temp guage seems to be working better but after 30 min of sitting and idling i would have thought that the tepm guage would have been up higher than just above the cold line. it is moving higher though. now when I turn the key to the on position after running it for a while the temp guage goes all the way up, bounces off the top a couple of times then slowly bounces down. once I get a fuel sender I think that that will make the fuel guage work. any thoughts?

sleepychallenger · « **Reply #29 on:** September 13, 2006 - 05:29:46 PM »

i changed the flasher and got the rear turns working, i think that the bulbs up front are bad. will check that later this week. also got the new fuel sender and will install that this weekend. hoping for the best. I will keep you updated. if you have any advice please let me know.

Author Topic: condensor (Read 6807 times)

MEK-Dangerfield

Re: condensor

sleepychallenger

Re: condensor

Bullitt-

Re: condensor

sleepychallenger

Re: condensor

MEK-Dangerfield

Re: condensor

Bullitt-

Re: condensor

PlumCrazy

Re: condensor

FY1 RT SE

Re: condensor

sleepychallenger

Re: condensor

Bullitt-

Re: condensor

PlumCrazy

Re: condensor

Todd Smith

Re: condensor

sleepychallenger

Re: condensor

sleepychallenger

Re: condensor

sleepychallenger

Re: condensor