Like tactrans said. the best way to limit the "worst case" is to run a valve body with low band apply. I havent seen the rollers fail, but I have inspected several where the thin steel tangs had begun to deform the wrong way, and I've found plenty of broken springs. The botl in spragues for the most part will only limit the rotation in the case. When it's all tight, there is the very slim possibility of the race moving a little. But it would take a lot of abuse before it moved. The tangs will disfigure long before the race moves with bolts. I describe the whole thing like this.. You can take a live grenade, and toss it around(no LBA valve body). You can put a wire around the pin and toss it around (LBA valve body and sprague). And you can pick up a dummy grenade, and do whatever you want with it and never have to worry again. The options cost about this: 1. $140 for typical Cheeta VB, less for shift kits. 2.$400-600 for typical Grinner, servo package, and sprague. 3.$1000+ for clutch retainer, good VB, sprague, and servos. What's your foot worth? Or perhaps more importantly, how much to fix (patch holes) the floor and body work should it let go? If it's more tha $1K for either of these, you should buy the better stuff. Just in case I get the "you must be made of money" deal. My car has had the Turbo Action Cheeta RMVB, factory sprague, servos, original pump, and stock rebuild. I've street driven it for 2 years early in life, and it's raced every summer since at least a few tmies, and runs high 11s. No issues. But, I built it before I knew a lot of what I know now, and I know how things get broken. A lot of guys dont, and that is what hurts parts and people.
