Home sandblasting advice, rent or buy cheap?

[gb623]

Does anybody have any experience or advice about sandblasting equipment that you can use in your driveway to rent or buy? I have a catalogue from ACE that has a spot blaster for around $400 but ones high capacity (90lbs)but only 30-40 minutes blast time, the other ones low capacity(14-40lbs). Not very good explanation for usage. Are these any good for larger areas or just small areas like the name implies? How about any other names? I assume taking and having the body dipped or sandblasted by a shop is expensive. Being on a tight budget is why i'm considering this.  Also heard about rust nuetralizing chemicals on another thread, whats involved with those? I have some areas of sheet metal surface rust where I can sand so much then maybe sandblast to get down into the slight pitting then treat with ? something before priming? I have used spray can self etching primer on my outdrive of my boat before finish painting with success. Can I do the same here or does type of product matter to what type of primer or finish coat is going to go over it? Heres a pic of example area. Thanks  Gary

[OUTLAW]

for the price of one of the home sandblasters you can have the whole car done by a commercial blaster using plastic bead or some other media without warping a panel plus no mess in the yard-shop and house (it gets everywhere)

[Todd Smith]

I'm with OUTLAW, But if you decide to do it yourself, rent a commercial blaster and be very careful. It's easy to over heat and warp panels. It's a mess you wont want to clean up and sand is TOXIC as he!! not to mention you will be digging sand out of your every orifice for weeks!

Good luck

[ambitions2]

GB623, I had a personal experience with renting a sandblaster for my old car.  What I did was I went out and rented a 100 lb sandblaster and a compressor (the compressor I rented you had to hook it up to my truck to haul it home).  Now when OutLaw and plumbcrazy tells you its a mess, they aren't lying.  I did it out in the middle of my buddies horse field and let me tell you it got everywhere.  Between the cost of renting it and materials I should have just sent it out and got it done. 

Another example, my father is putting a car together.  He actually sent his out and had it sandblasted (which I don't really want to do, warpage is a large part) and it cost him $150.  He dropped it off on Friday (we went to Mopar Nationals that weekend) and we picked it up Sunday. 

If I were you I would do my search.  Look around and find someone to do it.  Its easier, you don't have to work about the mess and clean-up, and usually the prices are not bad.  Hoped this helped

[gb623]

Thanks for the advice. I'm going to get some prices for taking and getting it done.

[dougs bs23]

    unless of course you plan on starting your own beach..  Another alternative but costs more ouldd be to have it soda blasted. It's safer less toxic and less chance of warpage   and can be done right in your driveway or yard.. As long as your neighbors dont mind the massive dust ball

[Topcat]

Here is another alternative. Very Interesting.

http://coldjet.com/en/Dry%20Ice/What%20is%20Dry%20Ice%20Blasting.html?gclid=CNS0m8iY_oYCFTA2JAodzjVQLw

There's even an article on renting it. Seems so far the cleanest way without any metal warping.

[Tropicalcats]

And yet another option and Alkaline bath.

http://www.americanmetalcleaninginc.com/pages/818548/index.htm

[Todd Smith]

And yet another option and Alkaline bath.

http://www.americanmetalcleaninginc.com/pages/818548/index.htm

I've read a lot about dipping like that - not this particular Co.- What I heard is it's high dollar and leaves a nasty residue you have to get off or the paint won't adhere well. No first hand exp. I might venture a phone call though. Can you imagine all the time it would save on small to med. size parts, like window regulators, interior metal parts and so on??

Plumbcrazy

[Tropicalcats]

I've read a lot about dipping like that - not this particular Co.- What I heard is it's high dollar and leaves a nasty residue you have to get off or the paint won't adhere well. No first hand exp. I might venture a phone call though. Can you imagine all the time it would save on small to med. size parts, like window regulators, interior metal parts and so on??

Plumbcrazy

 I though the price was resonable for what you get. I had a trunck lid dipped for $80.00 and there is a rust inhibitor put on the piece after the bath but I do not believe its a problem with a good paint. An entire car will run you about $1000-1500.
I am going the bath route and than will have my car E-coated. I will never worry about rust. The great thing to is it gets in ever little space and crevice, you just can't do that with any kind of blasting.

[Todd Smith]

I though the price was resonable for what you get. I had a trunck lid dipped for $80.00 and there is a rust inhibitor put on the piece after the bath but I do not believe its a problem with a good paint. An entire car will run you about $1000-1500.
I am going the bath route and than will have my car E-coated. I will never worry about rust. The great thing to is it gets in ever little space and crevice, you just can't do that with any kind of blasting.

That dose sound resonable, and not having to worry about rust is worth the price alone. When you dunkin her? I'd REALLY like to see the before and after Pics.

[Tropicalcats]

That dose sound resonable, and not having to worry about rust is worth the price alone. When you dunkin her? I'd REALLY like to see the before and after Pics.

I am hopeful to get her into her warm bath in the next 2 months. I think the fact that it gets in all the unseen areas is a big plus.

 You might check this post out .  http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=19333.0

[gb623]

The e-coating lasts forever right? In other words theres no time frame for getting it painted after e-coating? Not like the 30 days for just the rust inhibiter.

[Tropicalcats]

The e-coating lasts forever right? In other words theres no time frame for getting it painted after e-coating? Not like the 30 days for just the rust inhibiter.

The E-coating is forever. Same stuff they do on new cars today.

What is E-coating?

E-coating is an electrically-applied paint coating.   It is an electro-deposition coating or electro-coating.   E-coating was developed originally for the automotive industry because it is economical and provides superior coverage, adhesion and corrosion resistance. It coats aluminum, zinc, brass, and steel - any material that conducts electricity.   Some applications for E-coating include:

Automotive parts
Metal stampings
Marine hardware
Patio furniture
Castings
Electrical fixtures
 

How E-coating Works

The parts to be coated are attached to metal racks and immersed in the E-coat paint bath.   An electrical charge is applied to the racks and therefore to the parts attached to them.   The metal parts attract the opposite charged paint particles.   As the paint is deposited it begins to act as an insulator and deposition slows, stopping at a thickness that is determined by the amount of voltage applied.   Even though deposition may have been slowed or be complete at one area on the surface of the part, deposition will continue at any uncoated or incompletely coated areas of the parts until complete coverage is achieved.   As you can see, the very nature the E-coating process tends to produce a complete and uniform coat on even the most complex shaped parts!

 This stuff will get into places you can't see or possibly get something like a POR-15 product into

[gb623]

I like the process, it seems like the best. I just have to check my budget again.