Removing Heads???

[JRoss22]

I was wondering what steps do I need to go through first before I can remove the heads on my Challenger? I have a friend taking an engine rebuilding class and they are going to go over them cleaning them out and prepping them for machine work to be done by a shop if the teacher doesnt want to help resurface them and all. So I know I have to remove the headers, carb, intake manifold. But what else is there thats needs to be done?

[asm74]

You will have to pull the valve covers and the get at the rocker arms and push rods.  You will have to remove the bolts holding the rocker arms down, and the sequence is important so that you do not bend the rocker arm shafts.  Remove the outer bolts first, the the center one, and then un-torque the other two a few turns at a time.  If the original valve train is going back in  make sure to mark right and left.  For machining, you may need to remove the valves, springs, spring retainers, guides and seals, unless you are replacing those as well.  This may require special tools.
You're also going to need a lot of leverage and a heap of elbow grease to get those 10 head bolts loose!

I highly reccomend getting the book "How to rebuild small block mopar engines" from HPBooks.  It's inexpensive, very understandable and has not done me wrong so far (of course I'm still on my first engine).  I'd get the book and read the first two chapters before attacking your engine.

Good Luck!
-a

[JRoss22]

Thanks for the reply... I do have that book also but I have misplaced it somewhere in my garage... I also do have experience with engines... I rebuilt 3 engine in my auto class in high school although be it they werent anything compared to a 340... I guess its time to clean out the garage and look fo rmy book then..

[EVIL72]

 Drain your coolant first.

[Bullitt-]

Don't forget to drain the coolant, There are two drain plugs/bolts one on each side of the block.

[woody9512]

The book on "How to rebuild small block Mopar's" is a great book.....Take it from a guy who's learning as they go so to speak!!!  It explains everything in lauguage that "even I can understand!!!" Now that's saying something!!! ......as you get more advanced there is another book called "How to hotrod small block Mopar engines" that has lot's of secrets inside!!!!

"Woody"

[GoodysGotaCuda]

You will have to pull the valve covers and the get at the rocker arms and push rods.  You will have to remove the bolts holding the rocker arms down, and the sequence is important so that you do not bend the rocker arm shafts.  Remove the outer bolts first, the the center one, and then un-torque the other two a few turns at a time.  If the original valve train is going back in  make sure to mark right and left.  For machining, you may need to remove the valves, springs, spring retainers, guides and seals, unless you are replacing those as well.  This may require special tools.
You're also going to need a lot of leverage and a heap of elbow grease to get those 10 head bolts loose!

I highly reccomend getting the book "How to rebuild small block mopar engines" from HPBooks.  It's inexpensive, very understandable and has not done me wrong so far (of course I'm still on my first engine).  I'd get the book and read the first two chapters before attacking your engine.

Good Luck!
-a

Good advise there. Loosen the shafts 3-1-5-2-4, but loosen as in a few turns and move to the next until the valves are no longer compressed. Your going to want to pickup some Grade 8 rocker shaft bolts while its out. I tried to reuse my stockers before and had three of them strech like crazy when i went to torque them back out. Could have easily broken and i woulda been  ...get new bolts...

Make sure you have a good torque wrench, and a long breaker bar to loosen the head bolts. Dont use a torque wrench to break them loose. If you drain the coolant with the nose down (on a driveway, or jacked up) you wont have to pull the block plugs which can be a pain. (if you do, it wouldnt be a bad idea to find some drain petcocks like on a radiator to replace them for future use).

You might want to grab some new intake bolts as well if they are stockers. Stainless, or I always love my ARPs. You will need you add some RTV to the threads on some of the bolts that enter coolant passages so you dont get leaks through the threads of the bolts. And make sure you torque both the heads, intake, and rockers in proper sequence.

Thats about all i got on the top of my head. 

Any book written by Larry Shepard ('hot rodding small block mopars') is a good book to pick up..

[Chryco Psycho]

do Not over torque the rocker shafts when reassembling , you can squash the shafts ,
 when torqueing an intake always strt with the middle bolt & work outward to the corners like torqueing a head down
 If you use stainless bolts always use anti sieze on them or they can tear the threads out of the castings

[duodec]

You're also going to need a lot of leverage and a heap of elbow grease to get those 10 head bolts loose!

My 318, original to my '71 (numbers match); about 170K miles, had the head bolts come off reasonably easily with  a standard 1/2" ratchet.  Not loose by any means, but not that hard.  The head gaskets were Chrysler, I assume they were original.