Fuel system elec vs. mech or both??

[crcarch]

I'm restoring my 440-4V.  Originally I had a Carter HV pump with a 3/8" line.  It ran well except when it got hot, then I had vapor lock problems, so I installed a Purolator fuel pump.  I think it's 35-50 gph, but I'm not sure.  I'm going to rework the fuel delivery system and go with an 150 GPH elec. fuel pump at the tank.  If I leave the mech. pump on, will it be a problem or should I simply remove it and install a block-off plate?

Also, like BASEMENTwas asking, what should I do with the tank venting.  Currently it has 4 hoses that connect to a reservour mounted above the tank on the crossmember.  There is a single tube on top of it which originally ran back up front to a vapor cannister but now isn't connected to anything.  This probably isn't the wisest move.  Any suggestions?

Thanks, in advance.

[GoodysGotaCuda]

I'm restoring my 440-4V.  Originally I had a Carter HV pump with a 3/8" line.  It ran well except when it got hot, then I had vapor lock problems, so I installed a Purolator fuel pump.  I think it's 35-50 gph, but I'm not sure.  I'm going to rework the fuel delivery system and go with an 150 GPH elec. fuel pump at the tank.  If I leave the mech. pump on, will it be a problem or should I simply remove it and install a block-off plate?

'leave it on' as in, leave the pump still plumbed and hooked to the motor. Or just leave it hanging there? If you were to leave it plumbed, thats a bad idea...If the diaphram were to ever go out on it, that electric pump would fill the crankcase full of gas in a hurry.

[Chryco Psycho]

if you are going to use the intank fuel pump I would remove the mechanical pump the 70 cars use a loop up into the trunk that vented into the frame rail for venting , you could do something simple like that & just leave it open 

[Grancoupe]

What kind of plumbing are you gonig to use? I've tried aluminum 1/2 and was not very happy with the final result. It went in neat and all but you juat can't compare to running braid and proper fittings. Costs a bit but just makes to job look so much better. Not to mention alot safer. I ran 10 from the tank to the pump/filter. Then 8 along the frame. Then split 6's at the regulator next to the carb for feeds.

[MEK-Dangerfield]

crcarch,

  Can I assume headers are on the car? Are they ceramic coated? The solid fuel line coming up from the tank can get close on the passenger's side to the headers. I put a heat shield over my line to help. I also put a spacer under the carb. to get it off the hot intake manifold. These are some cheap fixes, but I have NO vapor lock worries anymore. 

  Mike

[crcarch]

I have ceramic coated headers.

This is the system I'm thinking of using.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2DPUMPKIT7A&N=700+4294925239+400304+4294839053+4294846168+115&autoview=sku

[Grancoupe]

Was that #6 all the way down the car?  would want to go #8 for the length of the car

[GoodysGotaCuda]

I have ceramic coated headers.

This is the system I'm thinking of using.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2DPUMPKIT7A&N=700+4294925239+400304+4294839053+4294846168+115&autoview=sku

FYI thats just a cheap chinese Blue pump knockoff if you compare the pictures on ebay to whats on summit, its identical...I picked up a brand new blue pump/regulator for $68 a couple weeks ago on ebay. I'd look out for a brand name pump myself.

Cheap knockoff 'summit' pump. Look closely and compare the two...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PROCOMP-Black-High-Performance-Fuel-Pump-Holley-Design_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33555QQihZ017QQitemZ270030295884QQrdZ1

[crcarch]

Then what system would you guys recommend?

It's going to be feeding a 440-4V, Carter 800 - AFB on Performer dual-plane intake with 1" spacer, Edelbrock heads, Comp Cam XE274H-10, 9/1 Compression, 1-7/8 headers with 3" duals, Mallory Unilite ignition, 2500 stall in built 727 with a manual valve body and a 8-3/4 with 3.23 posi turning 275/40-17's.  It's intended to be a fun street car, so durability for the long haul is important and the fuel system shouldn't cost an arm and a leg.

[GoodysGotaCuda]

Your setup will only flow as much as the smallest part. so if you run -8 from head to toe, but have a 3/8" sender, theres no reason not to run -6. imo, you should be fine with -6 all the way...Unless you have a cell/ 1/2" sender...above -6 is pointless.

[crcarch]

I have a new sending unit for the big-block, which is 3/8".

[moper]

I run the Holley Blue and regulator, in a  dead head system. It's -12 from sump to filter, filter to pump, -8 pump to regu;lator, and twin -6s to the bowls. That's enough to supply  500+hp easy. But, it's noisey, and I have a tank sump. If you're running a factory pickup, I would run the Carter or Mallory electric pump. IIRC they are 70gph. That's plenty for your setup, and they run quieter. As for line, if it's a street car, dont run aluminum. Every car is different, but I've seen a lot of leaks in teh past after some street miles. Both from impacts with road garbage and from chassis twisting. -6 is basically 3/8 ID, and wil lfeed it fine. I run mine up the frame, then thru the alignment cutout on the inner well. The regualtor is on the inner fender well flat spot, and the line comes up thru the body. Then the lines go to the carb. No boiling issues.