Author Topic: Rotisserie build  (Read 6540 times)

Offline mmccarty

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Rotisserie build
« on: September 23, 2006 - 02:49:01 PM »
My son and I have built half a rotisserie since last night.  Hydraulic lift
seemed kind of expensive, plus we wanted something to go from min
to max height with a minimum of fuss so we welded a 7K farm jack on the
back.  The jacks were only $27 at Tractor Supply.




Offline xblade

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Re: Rotisserie build
« Reply #1 on: September 23, 2006 - 07:26:22 PM »
cant wait to see the final product in use.

Offline mmccarty

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Re: Rotisserie build
« Reply #2 on: September 26, 2006 - 09:57:44 PM »
Got the car up on the lift tonight.  Pulled the k-frame.  What a pain the neck.
One of the upper control arm adjusting bolts was seized to the bushing and we spent
an hour beating on it, heating it up, beating on it some more. Never did get it
to budge.  Finally I got in there with a cutoff wheel and managed to cut the bolt
and pry the control arm out.  Ran out of time to pull the rear end tonight.

-Mac

Offline EvilTwinATX

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Re: Rotisserie build
« Reply #3 on: September 26, 2006 - 11:04:17 PM »
howd you attach the rotissiere to the chassis? Good job... Probably 200 bucks in materials and wholla!!

Offline mmccarty

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Re: Rotisserie build
« Reply #4 on: September 26, 2006 - 11:33:10 PM »
There is a 3x7 plate bolted to each of the rear bumper bracket locations with 1/2 inch bolts.  They are welded to the end of the L shaped brackets hanging from the pivot arm in the first picture.  On the front I bolted two 4x8 plates to the side of the frame rails at the front bumper bracket locations.  The side of the L brackets was welded to these.

It was more than a couple hundred bucks.  The price of steel is pretty high.  Everything was 3/16 wall thickness.   I bought 60 ft of 2x2, 20 ft of 2.5x2.5, 3 ft of 3 in pipe and 3 ft of 3.5 in pipe for $305.  Locking 650 lb casters were $100, jacks were $55, a couple pounds of grade 5 hardware and 5 lbs of welding rod comes out to around $475.  Still not too bad considering what some vendors are selling them for.

Offline Total BS

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Re: Rotisserie build
« Reply #5 on: September 26, 2006 - 11:45:38 PM »
Good job on the roto MMc.  As long as it works I think you are well ahead of the game. Save that money for something more important, like parts.
1971 'Cuda 383
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Offline EvilTwinATX

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Re: Rotisserie build
« Reply #6 on: September 26, 2006 - 11:49:03 PM »
wow! I didnt realize that steel was so high..

Offline mmccarty

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Re: Rotisserie build
« Reply #7 on: September 27, 2006 - 12:32:01 AM »
I'm definitely ahead on it.  The car is at the neighborhood body shop and the first thing
the owner said when I mentioned building this was "I'll buy it from you".  I told him I'd trade
for labor.  I figure it will save me a little in labor costs in the long run, plus its good for $1000 labor
in trade...

Offline Finoke

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Re: Rotisserie build
« Reply #8 on: September 27, 2006 - 03:25:55 AM »
REally nice job. I've been very interested lately in rotisseries! THanks for the pics.

Offline OUTLAW

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Re: Rotisserie build
« Reply #9 on: September 27, 2006 - 06:02:08 AM »
very nice ! here is a set of plans for another rotis if anyone needs one



http://moparsa2z.com/web/archive/how_to/body_rotis.htm

Offline mmccarty

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Re: Rotisserie build
« Reply #10 on: September 28, 2006 - 08:36:53 PM »
This thing works so sweet...  We unbolted the rear end, jacked the car up, rolled the rear end out of the way in about thirty minutes.  I can rotate the chassis with one hand.  If we had remembered to grease the spindles before we hung the car on it I think I could have spun it completely around with one good push.  We started scraping undercoating off.  A propane torch and a wire brush did wonders.  Heat up the undercoating and it just brushes off without too much trouble.  It just crumbles away under the brush.  It's cleaning up real nice. The only rust underneath is a few pinholes in a 3x3 inch area in the the drivers floor pan and most of the trunk floor.  The last four inches of the LH frame rail at the rear of the car is pretty crusty, but not rotted through.   Otherwise the floor pans and frame rails are pristine.  The rusty areas in the pictures are just a very light surface rust where they missed undercoating or it was worn away.

Offline 422STROKER

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Re: Rotisserie build
« Reply #11 on: September 28, 2006 - 09:44:38 PM »
That thing looks sweet.  The extra plus side is the sale when your done with it!

Tom :2thumbs:
Tom
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Offline Jacksboys

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Re: Rotisserie build
« Reply #12 on: September 29, 2006 - 01:46:04 AM »
Nice setup.  :2thumbs:  Keep up the good work.
1971 Dodge Challenger:  360/904/3.23
   
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Offline moparnocar

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Re: Rotisserie build
« Reply #13 on: September 29, 2006 - 06:49:13 PM »
This thing works so sweet...  We unbolted the rear end, jacked the car up, rolled the rear end out of the way in about thirty minutes.  I can rotate the chassis with one hand.  If we had remembered to grease the spindles before we hung the car on it I think I could have spun it completely around with one good push.  We started scraping undercoating off.  A propane torch and a wire brush did wonders.  Heat up the undercoating and it just brushes off without too much trouble.  It just crumbles away under the brush.  It's cleaning up real nice. The only rust underneath is a few pinholes in a 3x3 inch area in the the drivers floor pan and most of the trunk floor.  The last four inches of the LH frame rail at the rear of the car is pretty crusty, but not rotted through.   Otherwise the floor pans and frame rails are pristine.  The rusty areas in the pictures are just a very light surface rust where they missed undercoating or it was worn away.

Could u give me more info on the rotiserie? I am very interested in building one like yours. Any close up pics? thanks much

Offline moparnut

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Re: Rotisserie build
« Reply #14 on: September 30, 2006 - 08:18:04 AM »
You can buy a 6 ton long throw hydrolic ram from harbor freight,they are on sale aften for 39 bucks
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