Author Topic: Starting a 340 after a 25 year hibernation.  (Read 3888 times)

Offline 74 340 4speed

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Starting a 340 after a 25 year hibernation.
« on: October 02, 2006 - 05:28:30 PM »
I have a few questions about what I need to do with the motor in my Cuda.  The motor is a 340, that is far from stock, and has been sitting for 25+ years.  This is what I have done so far.  I removed all of the plugs, squirted some marvel mystery oil down in all of the cylinders, let it set for a few minutes, and then turned the motor using a 1/2" pull handle.  It wasn't stuck.  It wasn't easy to turn, but not as hard as I thought it would be.  I did this for about 5 minutes until it was smooth.  I put new plugs back in it as well.  It had a dual point distrubtor in it, but I removed it and replaced it with a stock '74 electronic distributor. The electronic distrubtor has a small plug coming off the housing.  Where does it go? What all is needed for me to run this distributor?  I also put a new voltage regulator on it (2 pin) because the older one melted.  Is the box on the firewall (pictured below) that is beside the voltage regulator for the electronic ignition?  I have already bought a coil, and put a new set of wires on it as well.   I plan on changing the oil and all of the filters, priming the oil pump, cleaning out the fuel system, and I've already had the holley rebuilt.  The belt, hoses and coolant will be changed as well.  What else do I need to do?  When I do get it running, what do I need to set the timing at?  All I know is that the motor is appoximately 12 or 13:1 compression, and has a large solid lifter cam in it.  It was built before I was born, so I don't have any specs on it.  Is there anywhere I can look for #s on the block, heads or anywhere else for that matter that would tell me what I have?

Andy
1967 Camaro SS: 406 sbc 505 hp/506 ft lbs|4 speed|Posi|3.73s
1969 C/10  350|Turbo 350
1969 Dodge D300 318|4 speed|Dana|4.88s
1972Nova: 350|Turbo 350
1974 'Cuda: 340|4 speed|Dana 60|4.10s|posi
1999 Camaro SS: Auto|Longtube Headers|True Duals|TT2s
2013 Challenger R/T: 6 speed|Hurst with pistol grip|mopar performance exhaust|super track pak




Offline Bullitt-

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Re: Starting a 340 after a 25 year hibernation.
« Reply #1 on: October 02, 2006 - 05:48:30 PM »
You are on the right track from what I can tell, Yes the circled item is the electronic ignition, the plug from the distributor has a corresponding plug in the harness that supplies the signal to the ignition. To time the distributor you need a timing light avail. from any parts house, the timing mark. a line on the harmonic damper on the front of the motor below the fan/water-pump, relates to degree marks on the timing chain cover on the drivers side, initial setting between 5 & 10 degrees for a stock motor should yet you going.
I just went through the same process 1yr ago with mine.
GOOD LUCK     Oh Yea keep a fire extinguisher ready & put the air cleaner on!
« Last Edit: October 02, 2006 - 06:14:11 PM by bullitt99 »
Wade  73 Rallye 340..'77 Millennium Falcon...13 R/T Classic   Huntsville, AL
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Offline Bullitt-

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Re: Starting a 340 after a 25 year hibernation.
« Reply #2 on: October 02, 2006 - 05:51:39 PM »
another thing, my car sat for 20+ years & I pulled the oil pan & could not believe the crud that was in there, of course I new it was going to be bad as I watched the oooozzz of oil out of the drain.  :P
Wade  73 Rallye 340..'77 Millennium Falcon...13 R/T Classic   Huntsville, AL
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Offline tactransman

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Re: Starting a 340 after a 25 year hibernation.
« Reply #3 on: October 02, 2006 - 05:55:55 PM »
I would pull the pan and the heads after sitting for 25 years. :grinyes:
Terry-tactransman 
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Union, Mo.
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Offline 74 340 4speed

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Re: Starting a 340 after a 25 year hibernation.
« Reply #4 on: October 02, 2006 - 06:59:31 PM »
Is it hard to remove the pan with the motor in the car?  I haven't gotten under the car yet, so I don't know what it looks like under there.  I guess it would be wise to clean out the oil strainer too.  I won't have to pull the balancer off to do this will I?
Andy
1967 Camaro SS: 406 sbc 505 hp/506 ft lbs|4 speed|Posi|3.73s
1969 C/10  350|Turbo 350
1969 Dodge D300 318|4 speed|Dana|4.88s
1972Nova: 350|Turbo 350
1974 'Cuda: 340|4 speed|Dana 60|4.10s|posi
1999 Camaro SS: Auto|Longtube Headers|True Duals|TT2s
2013 Challenger R/T: 6 speed|Hurst with pistol grip|mopar performance exhaust|super track pak

Offline 422STROKER

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Re: Starting a 340 after a 25 year hibernation.
« Reply #5 on: October 02, 2006 - 07:01:32 PM »
You need to drop the center link, I don't think you'll have to remove the damper.

Tom
Tom
12.77 @ 108.87 15" Street Drag radial tires 3.23 gear

Offline Bullitt-

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Re: Starting a 340 after a 25 year hibernation.
« Reply #6 on: October 02, 2006 - 07:04:12 PM »
 Tis a wee bit difficult, no removal of damper but the drivers side motor mount needs to come off. I used a comealong hung from the ceiling to hold my engine while removing the motor mount. Had a couple of frozen bolts on the motor mount that would not have come loose without an impact gun.
Wade  73 Rallye 340..'77 Millennium Falcon...13 R/T Classic   Huntsville, AL
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Offline 74 340 4speed

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Re: Starting a 340 after a 25 year hibernation.
« Reply #7 on: October 02, 2006 - 07:09:30 PM »
Thanks for the help guys.  I hope to have it running this upcoming weekend.  I know I will have to replace some of the wiring behind the engine.  The car had a carb back fire right before it was parked and it melted some of the wires.  So, after I get that taken care of, I'm gonna finish up the mechanical stuff and hope to fire it up.  I can't wait.  :jumping:
Andy
1967 Camaro SS: 406 sbc 505 hp/506 ft lbs|4 speed|Posi|3.73s
1969 C/10  350|Turbo 350
1969 Dodge D300 318|4 speed|Dana|4.88s
1972Nova: 350|Turbo 350
1974 'Cuda: 340|4 speed|Dana 60|4.10s|posi
1999 Camaro SS: Auto|Longtube Headers|True Duals|TT2s
2013 Challenger R/T: 6 speed|Hurst with pistol grip|mopar performance exhaust|super track pak

Offline moper

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Re: Starting a 340 after a 25 year hibernation.
« Reply #8 on: October 03, 2006 - 05:51:12 AM »
Well, I would replace the starter with a mini from the boneyard first. Keep the plugs out of it, and make sure you have a really good battery, or two of them. Make sure the battery cables are new. I would also drain the oil, and replace it. You can leave the filter, it's going to be changed after anyway. Oil develops acids from sitting, a cobination of fuel contamination and moisture. You dont want it pumping thru the engine. If you can get an oil priming shaft, use it. If you cant just use the starter, but dont use the key to turn it, jump the fender relay. turn it over with the starter until the oil pressure gage comes up. If possible, use a hand help mechanical gage, to make sure you get a reading, and the car's gage isnt just busted. Even if you use the priming shaft, you'll need to turn the engine around to get the top end oiled. You'll be able to hear the oil pressure come up with a drill on the priming shaft, you may not using just the starter. After you get oil pressure, put the plugs back in. I'd run the car off a gas can with the fuel pump. You dont know what has crawled in and died in the tank..lol. When you have it set up, use the key, and fire it up. I'd also put an air filter on it...flying nuts and debris from the fan will go right down the carb. Check the fuel system for leaks right off. Keep the rpms up until it gets some temp in it, and all the stuff burns off the pipes. Then you can set timing, idle mix and rpm. Oh, and what ever you do, I would get some decent fuel for it. If it's really 12:1, pump fuel could hurt it. The only way to know what you have is to pull a head and measure stuff, including the cam. Good luck. Do it right, and you shouldnt cost anything more than time, plugs, and 2 oil changes (change it and the filter after it's warmed up) plus some decent race fuel.

Offline heminut

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Re: Starting a 340 after a 25 year hibernation.
« Reply #9 on: October 03, 2006 - 08:43:34 AM »
I would also drain the oil, and replace it. You can leave the filter, it's going to be changed after anyway. Oil develops acids from sitting, a cobination of fuel contamination and moisture. You dont want it pumping thru the engine.

Why would you want to leave the filter? After 26 years it's hard telling what kind of crud might be in it! Oil filters are relatively cheap, and only takes a few minutes to change one. :clueless:
1970 5.7 Hemi Cuda

Offline 74 340 4speed

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Re: Starting a 340 after a 25 year hibernation.
« Reply #10 on: October 03, 2006 - 01:01:54 PM »
I just stuck the distributor back in it for now because I ran out of time to work on it.  I will pull it back out and prime the oil pump when I get ready to crank it.  I  filled up a 5 gallon gas tank with 93 and i'll buy some octane booster for it too.  I hope that it won't be that much trouble to get it going.  So far everything has been smooth sailing.   Oh yea, I'll definately put a new oil filter on it before I crank it for the first time 392heminut. ;)
Andy
1967 Camaro SS: 406 sbc 505 hp/506 ft lbs|4 speed|Posi|3.73s
1969 C/10  350|Turbo 350
1969 Dodge D300 318|4 speed|Dana|4.88s
1972Nova: 350|Turbo 350
1974 'Cuda: 340|4 speed|Dana 60|4.10s|posi
1999 Camaro SS: Auto|Longtube Headers|True Duals|TT2s
2013 Challenger R/T: 6 speed|Hurst with pistol grip|mopar performance exhaust|super track pak

Offline 71340RT

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Re: Starting a 340 after a 25 year hibernation.
« Reply #11 on: October 03, 2006 - 11:21:52 PM »
I dropped my center drag link on my 70 Cuda and the pan came right off without doing anything with the motor mounts.


70 Plymouth Cuda 340 4-speed
71 Dodge Challenger RT 340 automatic
1973 Dodge Challenger 360 automatic EFI
2002 Harley Davidson Dyna Wide Glide
2003 Dodge Stratus RT coupe
2009 Challenger RT Classic B5 Blue
2014 Ram Express 5.7 Hemi 4X4

Offline Topcat

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Re: Starting a 340 after a 25 year hibernation.
« Reply #12 on: October 03, 2006 - 11:55:39 PM »
My auto teacher said pour about a half cup to 3/4 mix of Marvel mystery oil with A/T fluid in the crank case with fresh oil on an engine that sat a long time to get all the bad stuff out and in the filter. Then, drain everything and put new oil back in. Cleans everything inside real good and it won't hurt the parts inside. Just don't go driving around too long with it in there. 10-20 min.
Mike, Fremont, CA.


Offline moper

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Re: Starting a 340 after a 25 year hibernation.
« Reply #13 on: October 04, 2006 - 06:19:57 AM »
Why would you want to leave the filter? After 26 years it's hard telling what kind of crud might be in it! Oil filters are relatively cheap, and only takes a few minutes to change one. :clueless:

Well, mainly because I'm a cheap SOB. :bigsmile:..lol. On a brand new engine, I use a new filter. But, on an old one (meaning sitting for tens of years, even if rebuilt), all the crud in the filter has settled and more than likely fresh crud will be loosened up and pumped right back into it. So I'd just leave it, then swap it. Adding a new filter cant hurt, it's just more precaution I personally dont feel the need for. The "right way" IMO would be to pull it, and tear it down to a shortblock to see what's what. Then it would get a new filter...of course, you would have bought at minimum gaskets and freeze plugs too.

Offline Bullitt-

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Re: Starting a 340 after a 25 year hibernation.
« Reply #14 on: October 04, 2006 - 06:38:30 AM »
I dropped my center drag link on my 70 Cuda and the pan came right off without doing anything with the motor mounts.
On my 73 you could not even get to some of the pan bolts with the LH motor mount on and even with it removed I had to maneuver the pan to get the left side in & out, must be some differences in the years setup wise.  :dunno:
 
Wade  73 Rallye 340..'77 Millennium Falcon...13 R/T Classic   Huntsville, AL
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