Work has begun...Topcat

[360 'CUDA]

I just mig the Cr@p out of it and finish it up with a little mud. Probably not a bad idea for you to go over the front roof welds too.  (mine are starting to crack a little bit)

[farmboy70]

Its starting to look a little more like a quarter panel again. I made the overlapping edges on the quarter where they meet and rain gutter corner. I plan to fill in over the joining area so it doesn't need to be perfect.

I have a VCR tape on doing Lead solder at the overlap. Anybody ever do theirs that way? Would like some pics if you did.

I don't have any pictures but be sure to neutralize it with baking soda to remove the tinning butter or the body work will not hold paint and will rust badly.
Dave

[Topcat]

Thanks Dave. I had mud on the seam before when it was black and I recall how it would stand out when it was bright outside. Thats why I was considering going with the Lead / solder bars on the seam this time.

[Kapteenikosmos]

Go with the lead! It's very easy to work with just remember clean the surfaces very well before and after the lead soldering. I don't know what kind of stuff you have in US but here in Finland the only good lead stuff comes from Bera. I think that I have some pictures of the work but I think that if you have a vcr about it it will be much better. If you have any questions ask and I'll try to answer. I worked with the lead for the first time in my life some time ago and didn't have any major problems. It's much easier than the common gossips say. Only thing which I would call frustrating is the smoothing and burring the shape on afterwards. I have a file designed for working with lead but the work with that is so ridiculous slow when you are shaping up a larger area and I prefer to use electric grinder with sandpaper wheel. With grinder getting the shape 100% right is bit hard but I can accept slight layer of mud over the lead if most of the seam is filled with lead.

If you haven't bought a torch yet I can recommend one of those small propane/butane torches which are powered from rattlecan type bottle. The best tool to work with the lead I found was a small wooden slightly knife shaped object covered with grease (vaseline) used in bearings.  I did mine from one of those wooden thingies (no idea about the name) which are used for stirring minced meat etc on a frying pan.

Also REMEMBER to use particle filtering mask if you are smoothing the lead with electric grinder!

[RUSTY Cuda]

Agree with above, cleaning is the biggest part, I did the first quarter seam with lead, the second with putty(after being told the lead was antiquated tech) but I have soldered for years & this is very similar, I also opted for the orbital sander to smooth it out (high grit,220 I think) it sands easy, I guess i'll see over the years if there's any drawback on one over the other Rich.
The lighter area is the lead.

[Topcat]

getting closer.

Yanked the outer wheelhouse today.

[Topcat]

Still working away. Should pick up now since all fab work looks almost done.

[Finoke]

Hey TopCat! Its looking great! If I wasn't on the East coast, I would pop on over and give ya hand! 

[Jacksboys]

Looking Good 

[EVIL72]

Probably not a bad idea for you to go over the front roof welds too.  (mine are starting to crack a little bit)

I just noticed mine started cracking, it must of been all that chassis twisting torque from my low compression 340 
 
 Looks good Topcat 

[Plum6Pak]

Keep it up Mike, looks like you're doing a good job, hows the welding skills coming along? Keep the pictures coming. 

[VTMopar]

 

Looking Good! 

VermontMOPAR

[Plum6Pak]

Hey buddy, I sent you a hat, don't you wear it? LOL Here's TC, the sun comes out, 110 deg then....  

Seriously, a canopy and some air movement will do wonders. I work outdoors through all types of weather, a big HD tarp with some good tie downs will do the trick. Make it lean a bit and hook it down good, it will stay put and keep you cool, well, you're already cool but I mean, nevermind, you know what I mean.

[Top Banana]

900 + shipping = $1300.-$1400. I already checked.
This would be built for $900. OTD

I built this one with salvage steel for less than $200 using these plans:
http://www.autobody101.com/rotisserie.php

[KTO]

 

great work!