Work has begun...Topcat

[burdar]

It's looking good Mike.  Either color will look great but B2 is a rarely seen color.  I think I'd go that way.  The Challenger pictured above is gordeous though.  I agree that while gunmetal is a great looking color, it needs a stripe and/or top to look the best.

For me personally, the paint color doesn't nessesarily "make or break" a car.  It's the small details that set nice cars appart from the great ones.  With just the few PM's we've exchanged, I can tell that you care about those small details and are going to get them right.  I have no doubt that your car will turn out to be one of the great ones.   

  

[68-383Bee]

I agree with ShelbyDogg, go for the orange if that is the color you really want.  I debated the color of mine a long time and even after I painted the underbody I wasn't sure. But I am really glad I did it now and can't imagine it any other color. 

[Topcat]

I was leaning on B2 over the Orange initially. That color would look good as a hard top/no vynil. Orange works without the top but having the top tends to break it up a little and it looks better I think with one.

The H.S. colors isn't a must or heavy desire. It would be that the car would have a sort of celebrity status on Friday nites. My H.S. has always been a formidable opponent in bay area Football for many yrs.

[dutch]

mike, what is the original color of your car?

[Topcat]

mike, what is the original color of your car?

Y9 Tawny Gold Metallic. 2 tag Gran coupe.
I did Army but I wasn't a lifer. 

[dutch]

 

I kinda like Y9, but only with bodycolored steelies and a gatorgrain top.... 
   I like B2 better.... 

[Cuda Cody]

It was proven by the university of Pennsylvania that Hemi Orange had the best co-efficiency of drag of any color.  Therefor Hemi Orange will add free HP, Torque and Value! 

[ShelbyDogg]

It was proven by the university of Pennsylvania that Hemi Orange had the best co-efficiency of drag of any color.  Therefor Hemi Orange will add free HP, Torque and Value! 

Ha.   What did they say about "Hugger" Orange?    My car pictured is Hugger.  In the bright sunshine, if I park next to a Hemi-Orange car, the other car looks dusty. Same color but no metal flake in it.

[Topcat]

TC-
Please post some pics.  Seeing progession is a great motovator for all of us.

Next week when the weather clears, I'll take the last pics of the passenger side once I get the body line re done under the louvers.



I was thinking on how I can true that area of the louvers when I came home last night.

Make cardboards to fit inside the louver holes, taped in including right inside the beveled edges. Then just skin coat the entire area right over the louvers. I use a steel flexy board with a foam grip thats the same length as the 3M sticky 80 grits. Bought it at Harbor Freight but I don't see those on their website. Thing works killer!

If those louver holes weren't there, I would've already been done on that side.

[Cuda Cody]

I just reread the study and your right.  IT does list Hugger orange.  Since they both came in at the same levels, they listed them under the same category..... THE BEST!

You know Hemi Orange is a fast color if they named it after the best engine ever built!

Ha.   What did they say about "Hugger" Orange?    My car pictured is Hugger.  In the bright sunshine, if I park next to a Hemi-Orange car, the other car looks dusty. Same color but no metal flake in it.

[Sean]

She's looking great, Mike!  Good to see the progress pics.  Been slow moving on mine, 12 hour shifts are killing my car time!  Keep up the great work.

Sean

[buddydog]

So your inbox was full....

I just reread through your build and noticed you've used the 5-star Extreme primer/sealer. I also notice that your car looks to have spent some time on the rotisserie outdoors. Have you had any issues with surface rust coming back through the blasted panels? I used the same stuff on my Cuda but clearly where the application was thin I've suffered! I was going to buy a gallon kit this time but wanted to check with someone in a similar if not damper climate than myself. I am down in Paso Robles and we are less damp most of the year so I can only assume the rust is coming from condensation due to the extreme weather swings (almost 10-20 degrees most nights).  I am about to take the body back to bare metal soon. Exciting times these!

Thanks for getting back to me when you have the time!
Geoff

[Topcat]

So your inbox was full....

I just reread through your build and noticed you've used the 5-star Extreme primer/sealer. I also notice that your car looks to have spent some time on the rotisserie outdoors. Have you had any issues with surface rust coming back through the blasted panels? I used the same stuff on my Cuda but clearly where the application was thin I've suffered! I was going to buy a gallon kit this time but wanted to check with someone in a similar if not damper climate than myself. I am down in Paso Robles and we are less damp most of the year so I can only assume the rust is coming from condensation due to the extreme weather swings (almost 10-20 degrees most nights).  I am about to take the body back to bare metal soon. Exciting times these!

Thanks for getting back to me when you have the time!
Geoff

To answer your questions:

The 5star Xtreme is a direct to metal hybrid epoxy primer. It can be used as an epoxy, sealer, or filler. Many shops are using it now. But it won't be the final sealer. I'll be top coating it with the PPG as a sealer.

Yes the car is outdoors. The Garage isn't deep enough to have the car on the rotisserie in a straight direction. Pretty blessed where I live weather wise. 15 to 25 inches of rain per year. Spring and Summer humidity is very low. On shore breeze keeps air moving here is why. Car is in a corner against a wall and a fence. The sun hits that corner and keeps things very dry. Hottest area in the yard. Car has 5 laters of protection on it. First one is black thick plastic, followed by a blue tarp. Then 2 worn out car covers, followed by a water proof car cover. During winter, I tilt the car sideways at a 45 degree angle to keep water from sitting long on the cover. When I paint stripped the car, I used metal conditioner twice. Then 3M scuff padded, then epoxy primered. Once in a while, I get a few very small rust spots. Sand em, mark em and throw another primer on.

I'm thinking a fan at low speed under the car would help even more keeping any condensation to a minimum. Could be hooked up to a timer.

Thanks for the heads up on my mail. Will clean it.

[Topcat]

The cold front continues now for the second week straight.

Canada, please close your freezer door, we don't need the cold draft coming down here.

Being that its really too cold to do any bodywork, I started a few small projects till the temps come back up a little more.

The Rallye hood I bought brand new back in 79' from the local Plymouth dealership in town. It was on my car the first time I restored it. (Or tried to) It's in cherry condition.
Paint stripper works good when its cold. It doesn't tend to dry out as fast letting you smooth and work with it a little better.

The shaker hood has a couple of small Oops spots on the drivers front corner. Pulled them out with the stud puller. Still looks a little high there towards the middle. Might have to make a small cut after I grind the spot welds flat to get it right. Very close right now though. the ring is loose in the picture. Very poor made quality IMO. That will be a project in itself to get it sitting right.

[Sean]

The hood looks like it's coming along nicely!!!  Bummer about the Shaker ring...  Any ideas on how you are going to get it to lay flat???

Sean