Top Banana Challenger

[Chryco Psycho]

do you have a link to Ulimate rides website ?

[Lunchbox]

do you have a link to Ulimate rides website ?

This is as close as they have to a website.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1970-Dodge-Challenger-New-Dash-Pad_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ34206QQihZ006QQitemZ160104921182QQrdZ1

Lunch

[Confederate Cuda]

Do you know if Ultimate Rides attend Carlisle?

[MEK-Dangerfield]

Do you know if Ultimate Rides attend Carlisle?

So far, they haven't. It might be a good question to ask them thru an "ask the seller" on E-Bay. They might not know Carlisle is such a big market.


  Mike

[Lunchbox]

Do you know if Ultimate Rides attend Carlisle?

They were at the NAT's last year 

Lunch

[Chryco Psycho]

Thanks Lunch 

[moparclown]

Heres the pic's I took of my BB stripe,remember this car was repainted but if you look you can see where the black is under the yellow in the bumper cavities.I hope this helps,The Clown

[Lunchbox]

Thanks Clown 

As per request...

The dash stand is

2- 1x6x60"
2- 2x4x11"
2- 1 1/2" to 2" lag bolts
2- larger washers

The middle piece is a scrape 1x6" cut down to fit the height with a 1x4" split down the middle screwed to each side. I did it this was so that I could take the middle section out if needed or leave it in without have to flip the whole thing. The middle section probably isn't needed but thought it couldn't hurt. Also the passenger side 2x4" needs to have a slight notch cut into it so the bottom of the dash frame sits flat on the top of the 2x4.

Hope that helps

Lunch

[moparclown]

Your very welcome,your doing an awsome job Lunchbox.My little workbench just happened to be the right width to fit my dash,and it made it a pleasure to put it together.It doesn't show in the pic but it's bolted right to the bench.The Clown

[Lunchbox]

Nice     when things work perfect.

I am still waiting on my dash to get here from Ultimate Rides. Once I test fit it, the dash frame will be painted and work will start. 

Lunch

Update   

Got my new dash, it's pretty much the same as the first one, guess I will have to fix it my self. 

[Lunchbox]

Well I have been working on on my cowl and I just can't seem to get this thing together. I am having trouble with welding this piece in. I am using a Miller 175 mig welder. The wire thickness is .023". Seems when I try to make this weld I am either burning thorugh or puddleing on top. I am also doing a bunch of tacks, should the whole thing be attached with tacks until its solid, or can you run small beads? I am trying to do a butt wled is there a different way I should be doing this? It is also warping, no matter how slow I go and let it cool down. Lastly some of the welds look as if there is a weld on the opposite side of the panel like to much heat or to much wire speed maybe both.

Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

Lunch

[conv340]

Man I love this site. Where else can you go where people think they can save rusty old Mopars and call it fun! I feel your pain with welding this stuff. E-body's seem to have a high alloy mix it the steel nickel? But it welds like spring steel. I have been doing "some" myself  I use .030 and a different model miller but its the same. Practice a little on some original steel you cut off. I use wet rags along the weld and just move them away from the spot your tacking. Have Patience lots of little tacks then let it cool. But welds are the best but hardest. If you overlap it's a lot easier. I have the same bead roller it can do flanges also. I do but welds if its highly visible or visible on both sides. Then cheat on the rest  Just make sure you can get seam sealer on the back if you overlap so no rust! And yes on sheet metal I just keep tacking untill its solid. skipping around to avoid heat. If the part has a good contour it won't warp so easily and you can do little 1/4 inch welds. I'm no expert, just a glutton for punishment. I think I have a mile of weld by now  Keep up the good work.

[360 'CUDA]

I try to cover the back of the two panels being welded with a piece of copper, duct tape it on there to help keep Oxygen from leaking in through the back heating the weld up too much.  In some cases you can use a piece of copper pipe if the area being welded is straight enough. The copper keeps the O2 away but the weld wont stick to it

Also, squeeze the MIG gun trigger a little to let the inert gas form a little airless bubble and then pull the trigger back all the way for the tackweld. That keeps the O2 away also.

[Lunchbox]

Thanks for the tips  I had to take a little break for some other commitments but will be starting back up on the metal work again shortly. I did spend a day and make a body cart so I can wheel it around the shop a little bit easier. Next will be a rotisserie.

Lunch

[Lunchbox]

Well I got back to working on the cowl again. I am really starting to get the hang of the sheetmetal work. Its kindof relaxing now that I can put stuff together that works and doesn't totally look like crap. On the inside little bumps of weld cam thorugh the other side and between some of them you can see a slight gap from the butt welds. Should I leave as is or should I flip it over and fill the 10 or so gaps I have. The gaps are only on the back side not the fornt. Sorry no pics of that.

Lunch