Package deal 73 Cuda

[farmboy70]

No problem on the questions but if your going to pick my brain I can tell you it won't take long! Not much up there anyway.
After the EPA banned lead PPG reformulated DP epoxy's to DPLF(lead free) The adheasion is not as good as it was before this,still a good product just not like before.Dp had such good bite before the change that if you got it on glass it would stick and be very hard to get off. Using the acid etch(dx 1791) gives it a boost in adhesion.
I don't use any of the rust stop paints on any area that get's finish paint, only on interior panels like inside frames,doors ,drop extensions,ect.
When these products first came out they said you could just paint over it (didn't work),then it was wait until it dried some and paint over it(didn't work), then they said you had to spray a tie coat to paint over it. If  you have to do that much work to use it I decided to just clean it very well and go to regular paint system for less hassle.
For example I coat the lower inside area of the door skins (inside the door)on all cars to stop any embedded rust and protect from any rust bleed later.
If it is cleaned enough there is no need for it and it voids the paint manufactures warrenty even if it is not the problem. But it is very useful for hidden rust prone or hard to clean panels.
Hope all that helps.
Dave
PS GREAT KNOWLEDGE. Remember I'm just a farmboy.

[farmboy70]

Here is a couple of pictures from today. Got the heater box rebuilt , the  Detriot muscle tech gasket kit is great for this job. Rear bumper ,tail lights and some engine comp parts.
Front bumper is a little low though
Dave

[moparnocar]

No problem on the questions but if your going to pick my brain I can tell you it won't take long! Not much up there anyway.
After the EPA banned lead PPG reformulated DP epoxy's to DPLF(lead free) The adheasion is not as good as it was before this,still a good product just not like before.Dp had such good bite before the change that if you got it on glass it would stick and be very hard to get off. Using the acid etch(dx 1791) gives it a boost in adhesion.
I don't use any of the rust stop paints on any area that get's finish paint, only on interior panels like inside frames,doors ,drop extensions,ect.
When these products first came out they said you could just paint over it (didn't work),then it was wait until it dried some and paint over it(didn't work), then they said you had to spray a tie coat to paint over it. If  you have to do that much work to use it I decided to just clean it very well and go to regular paint system for less hassle.
For example I coat the lower inside area of the door skins (inside the door)on all cars to stop any embedded rust and protect from any rust bleed later.
If it is cleaned enough there is no need for it and it voids the paint manufactures warrenty even if it is not the problem. But it is very useful for hidden rust prone or hard to clean panels.
Hope all that helps.
Dave
PS GREAT KNOWLEDGE. Remember I'm just a farmboy.

I apprieciate all your help.. I am going to use zero rust under cowl and hidden areas.. Then I am going to do what u did.. That should get me a great start.. I'm just in the metal work stages right now.. so I have a lot to go.. thanks again.. Jason

[Lunchbox]

Great progress  On top of that you answered all of our questions  Thats a full day in my book. 

Lunch

[farmboy70]

One thing I forgot to mention on the DPLF epoxy is to use the 402 catalyst. It drys better for doing body work over than the 401. 401 is for plastic bumpers and soft parts. I used the 401 on the bumper fillers on the Cuda today.
Dave

[farmboy70]

Thanks everyone for the kind comments  If I can help just let me know.
Dave

[farmboy70]

Great progress  On top of that you answered all of our questions  Thats a full day in my book. 

Lunch

I just hope I didn't screw up on the posts, I was between coats painting small parts while I was posting.
Dave

[Travis72]

Dave,

Great posts and great info!!  Awesome work on the Cuda.

Travis
72 Cuda

[moparnocar]

Hey Dave I see u need a grille...  I have an original one that I hate to sell but need the money... It's been off car and in storage since 86-87.. it does have a hairline crack on drivers side by bezel.. and where the hood latch lever goes threw the piece above it is broken out but I have the piece and fits in there perfect.. Email me if interested and I'll get u pics... I just hate to ship these though... mopar_maniac68 at yahoo.com   Jason

[MoparCar]

Dave,
Truly awesome work and replies to us bodywork impaired people!
Thanks for answering our questions. Can't wait to see yours all done and complete (which looks to be real soon).

Wes

[IMNCARN82]

What......This things not done yet?...... Just kidding.     

[Plum6Pak]

   I don't check in here for a while and    I'm surprised to say the least. Great progress, very very nice! 

[74chall]

Dave ,when you do your body work, do you sand the epoxy off where your doing the work or do you put the filler right on top of the epoxy primer? I didnt think body filler sticks to prime? Might be a stupid question but im sure im not the only one thats curious. 

[farmboy70]

No I just scuff it a little. Just enough to get adhesion (150 grit). I'm using the epoxy to keep the filler from coming in contact with the bare metal to keep it from rusting.
 Dave

[Lunchbox]

Dave you said, "I like to scuff sand after cleaning before going to epoxy. This makes me feel better about how clean it is I also wear gloves for this so not to leave sweat or skin oil on the surface. "

What do you use to scuff sand what do you use? Also do you have to reclean the surface to clean and metal dust of the surface before painting?

You also said, "On the interior of the panels(floor pans ,inside doors , inside frame rails,ect) I go with Rust bullit,Zero rust, or POR."

What is your method for applying these coatings inside of the frame rails?

Sorry for making it like presidential debate with the quotes  Just want to be accurate.

Lunch