how many here run synthetic motor oil?

[real426maxwedge]

I have been doing a lot of research here lately concerning synthetic motor oils.  I have emailed back and forth with royal purple countless time and are very nice people.  From emailing them and going through all the hemi racing manuals ands other books.  I bought the straight 40w royal purple.  Anyone else using it?  What are you using if not?  I wasnt worried about the horsepower gain just wanted to protect my hemi the best I can.  They are supposed to be the only synthetic with zinc in it and some other things that "used to be in" normal motor oils.  What's your take on the subject?

[MEK-Dangerfield]

This is a thorn in my side.  The newer oils are removing the zinc and phospherous that the older engines need. I know Royal Purple is still OK, but 40 weight is MIGHTY thick.    Along with the racing oils from Amsoil, and Redline, to go cheap, Shell rotella T is still good. I just wonder if we have to start stock piling this stuff, or will someone throw us a bone as an additive in the future? 

  Mike

[real426maxwedge]

I am like you and it is a thorn in my side.  I always worry.  In my many emails back and forth with royal purple they claim to still have the zinc and phospherous.  Also in my emails to them in a older muscle car a straight weight was the best way to go.  It was $59.28 for 8 quarts and $10.00 for a wix racing oil filter with the "better" filteration.  So it is $70 to change my oil, but it is only once a year.  I can justify/live with that.

[MEK-Dangerfield]

Yep,

  I getcha. 

I figure I can splurge once a year too.  I go with the K&N filter.


  Mike

[71challengher]

I'll stick with my 10/40 Castrol GTX and Mopar oil filter. I change it twice a year in the Chally and every 3000 miles in my daily driver. My mechanic says to stay away from additives. He says most of them break down motor oil. Now , I add Lucas Oil gas treatment everytime I fill up in all my cars.

[Jacksboys]

My mechanic says to stay away from additives. He says most of them break down motor oil.

^^^^ From what I have read in testing this is true.

I did a bunch of research and I decided to use 10w-30 REDLINE (high zinc and moly content) in my Challenger.  I use Mobil 1 in my Dakota but it is a modern engine so I am not worried about the lower zinc levels. 

I know Royal Purple is still OK, but 40 weight is MIGHTY thick.   

I would go with a 10w-40 if you like the 40wt oil.

[SilverChally]

I wouldn;t use synthetic in a higher mileagbe motor or one that leaks a little since it will only get worse with synthetic.  I can;t justify the cost when I change it every 3k.

[Jacksboys]

I wouldn;t use synthetic in a higher mileagbe motor or one that leaks a little since it will only get worse with synthetic.  I can;t justify the cost when I change it every 3k.

The reason for this happening is because the synthetic oil cleans away the deposits left by the other oil and if there are any cracks in the seals, there will be a leak.

[Oldschool]

I use Valvoline 5W-50 in the Beast and change it every 2-3 months depending on how much/hard I drive it.
I know that zinc really helps cam wear because it lubricates the cam lobe/lifter contact area. There is a tremendous amount of compression and shear in that area.  I wonder how important zinc is in an engine that uses roller tappets?  Still as big a deal?  Just wondering.............       

[real426maxwedge]

^^^^ From what I have read in testing this is true.

I did a bunch of research and I decided to use 10w-30 REDLINE (high zinc and moly content) in my Challenger.  I use Mobil 1 in my Dakota but it is a modern engine so I am not worried about the lower zinc levels. 
  I would go with a 10w-40 if you like the 40wt oil.

According to the mopar hemi manual you should use straight 30 in a stock hemi and straight 40 in a modified hemi.  According to the emails I have been sending back and forth to royal purple, I would be better off with the straight 40w.

I am going with the 10w30 royal purple in the t/a and the 71 340 cuda.

[Chryco Psycho]

roller cams do not see the scuffing of flat tappet cams, most modern engines use hyd rollers
 I do not use additives either but GM EOS & CompCams both have additives that replace the zinc & phosphorus missing in new oils 

[dodge freak 2]

I would think the Comp. stuff would be the highest and best stuff to use. I have used GM eos, but now of days with all the smog stuff these new cars have and being its sold at a new car dealer for breaking in a new motor in a newer car I wonder if it still does have zinc in it. Thats why I would use the Comp/ stuff even though it cost more. Thats for a race motor. I think next season I will add one bottle of it at each oil change.

[real426maxwedge]

here are the emails I have sent and received from royal purple.



We've never lost a cam with Royal Purple. The problem is todays oils have less zinc in them to help catalytic convertors live. New cars all have hyd roller cams in them so the lack of zinc isn't a problem. Our older musclecars need the additives that RP puts in their product to survive.
 
In your other cars I'd run the same grade you've been running in Royal Purple multi-grade oil. Racing is better, but it's real spendy. We run Racing only in our racecars. All of our street fleet has standard RP in them.
 
Thanks, Randy
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: real426maxwedge@insightbb.com
To: rpmoil@aol.com
Sent: Mon, 30 Oct 2006 3:41 PM
Subject: Re: Re:


Is there any truth about not using synthetic in a mechanical camshaft motor?  How do you prefer to get paid?  What would you put in the two pretty stock 340's that I have also?  Thanks  Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: rpmoil@aol.com
To: real426maxwedge@insightbb.com
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 6:37 PM
Subject: Re:


Hi Scott,
 
The Racing Oils retail for $13.45 per quart, but we sell it for $11.99 per quart. You only need to change it once a season. Get together as big an order as you can because we only charge $8.99 handling whether you buy 1 quart or a truckload.
 
Thanks again Scott.
 
P.S. We'll get you some FREE RPMOil.com hats too!
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: real426maxwedge@insightbb.com
To: rpmoil@aol.com
Sent: Mon, 30 Oct 2006 3:27 PM
Subject: Re: Re:


Is that for the xpr20w50?  What is the difference in the xpr and the regular 20w50? I work in a large factory with 10-15 guys with muscle cars.  We have a blown 392 hemi in a 40 dodge truck, a fm3 pink t/a challenger mine and dads, a 71 340 cuda  mine and dads, a 498 roller chevy in a 4x4 chevy truck flat dragger, dz302 camaro, 396 chevelle, 69 396 impala convertible, 78 camaor with a roller 383 and a bunch more.  I will talk to some of those guys tomorrw and get there input and see if I can get a large order together.  Thanks  Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: rpmoil@aol.com
To: real426maxwedge@insightbb.com
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 5:57 PM
Subject: Re:


Hi Scott,
 
The biggest thing is to make sure the rings have fully seated. At 250 miles they should be. We make a few easy passes on our race cars with break in oil (Valvoline 30wt or 20w50) then switch to RP.
 
We sell 20w50 for $6.99 a quart with only a $8.99 handling charge and FREE UPS ground. When you buy from us, you're helping support a racing family, a Hemi racing family (hey that's worth something!)
 
Thanks and we hope to earn your business, Randy
 
 
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: real426maxwedge@insightbb.com
To: rpmoil@aol.com
Sent: Mon, 30 Oct 2006 2:48 PM
Subject: Re: Re:


  The car has 250 miles on it since completion.  How long should I use regular oil till I go to the synthetic?  I have been told not to run synthetic because of the mechanical camshaft, why is that or is it bs?  The car is a real 383 4 speed road runner.  I have a dana 60 in it with 3.54 gears, msd 6al, hooker super comps with 2 1/8 primary tube, 3 inch flowmaster exhaust and the list goes on.  The cam is small at 518/509  245 @ .050. Made 598hp on the dyno and 615 torque.  Runs on pumps gas is the best part.  I can buy the oil here at oriellys a little less than through you, why is that?  Does your price include shipping to 47362?  How often would you change it, I am hoping once a year.  Thanks  Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: rpmoil@aol.com
To: real426maxwedge@insightbb.com
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 5:38 PM
Subject: Re:


At a minimum, I'd go with the Royal Purple 20w50. Great stuff. But... that car deserves the best, so I'd go with Royal Purple XPR20w50 (Racing 51)
 
We have a TFX Forged, Brad 5 headed Hemi in our A/Fuel Dragster! Long live the Hemi!!!
 
Thanks, Randy
 
P.S. Both oils are of course in stock at www.RPMOil.com
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: real426maxwedge@insightbb.com
To: RPMOil@aol.com
Sent: Mon, 30 Oct 2006 2:04 PM


I have a 1969 road runner with a aluminum headed 426 hemi in it.  Not a crate motor.  It has an eagle crank, manely rods, comp cams mechanical camshaft, j and e 10.25 to 1 pistons and a 850 might demon on a Indy intake.  The car sits a lot and only gets 500-1000 miles a year on it.  I am in Indiana and the temperature in the summer is usually in the low to upper 80's. I run 20w50 valvoline in it, but I am considering your oil.  What do you recommend for the car?  Thanks  Scott


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The first email is at the bottom.  they are listed in reverse.

[BIGSHCLUNK]

ok then how about "new" Hemi's ... crate motors?? IMO Wix filter a must but what about oil??

[dimples]

You dont need high zinc content with a good synthetic oil, because the lubrication is superior. I run royal purple, never had anything wear out on it........or even get close.
If you want whats best for your engine, run synthetic.