Rebuilding the trani

[RDF]

ok, I'm gonna leave that for last, that way I don't screw up parts and get them interchanged with each other.

One ? I've got is the seal in the picture looks squared, but the ones in the kit are round, does it make a difference?

[tactransman]

Squared means flattened (worn out)
Round means new!

[RDF]

ok, while I was waiting on that I went to install the tailshaft seal and it looks to be too big.  I compared diameters with the old one and the new one seems a little bit bigger.....is it the right one or should I call my local parts store and get one?  or do you want a pic?

[tactransman]

Ah shoot!!!! If the metal outside part is too big to start in the housing, you have the odd ball rear seal that is harder to get. Worst case sceneario ,you can use a front seal but it won't have a dust boot on it.

[RDF]

Ok, lemme call my lps and see if they have one.....if not, I'll get a front seal. 

[RDF]

ok, the zone's got one, just sent pops to go get it.  The book doesn't say how to get the extension housing bushing out, should I leave the old one or can I pull it out with pliars?  Also, I've noticed in the kit and other things they have given me "extras", this is ok right?  For my springs and rollers I had 3 extra of each.  Makes it hard to replace them, especially if I don't know where they are originally. 

[tactransman]

Yes, extra parts are fine. The sprag kit is a 727/904 kit so you will have 2 extra for sure (727 uses 12 rollers) 1 extra probably just got dropped in by accident. Extension bushing presses out ,new one presses in.

[tactransman]

This is the order to start your reassembly :
1. Govenor assembled on the output shaft with 2 new rings
2. CAREFUL WITH THE SPRAG ASSEMBLY IT CAN FALL OUT IF YOU SET THE CASE DOWN TOO HARD (or rattle it too hard tightening any bolts) Case sitting on  bellhousing, set the output shaft/govenor assembly into preinstalled govenor housing on back of case.
3. Lay gasket on case,set extension housing over output shaft, spread snap ring so it can snap into bearing groove
4.Tighten extension housing bolts will holding sprag inside so it all doesn't fall out, install snap ring cover with two  phillips head screws.
5. Lay case down on it's back with the V.B. side up to the ceiling

[RDF]

ok, I've decided to start the shift kit b/c I didn't know if I would have to get at the servo valves or not and I didn't want to put the pump back in just to have to take it out again.

Question, in the pic below, is the hole that I pointed out the one to file?

Oh, btw, my dad has had it and wants to know how much you would charge him if he shipped the trani to you and had you put it all together and then shipped it back to me.  I think he's intimidated by the shift-kit directions.

[RDF]

Also, thought this was weird, but the check balls, 1 slipped out while taking off the metal gasket for the valve body, the rest stayed in place.  There are 6 in the valve body and 1 we don't know where it goes.  2 - 11/32 and 5 1/4 balls.  We looked at the book and it shows the spot for the 7th ball, but it's too big to fit in the valve body.  Could it go somewhere else?  According to some pics online, the 904 should only have 6 check balls, 1 - 11/32 and 5 - 1/4 sizes.     

[tactransman]

Yes, that is the hole.

 We can do this I feel, no need to ship the tranny (shipping is outragous)

Your other ball should sit on a spring in the corner of the valve body, check the shift kit instructions it should show it. I wish I had brought a copy of the TF-2 instructions home with me.

[tactransman]

Did you get your forward drum rebuilt? (with the shaft)

[RDF]

yup....that's all back together, well the part that you said to use the hose clamps on.  I didn't need them, I had my dad hold the pieces together and I was able to get the bolts in place.  The "guts" of the trani should go in no problem, it's just I'm having a little trouble with the shift-kit right now.  I'll get filing like it says and move onto the next step. 

[ShelbyDogg]

RDF,

I don't know if you're using a manual or not, but don't forget to change the inner and outer piston seals in your drums.  The blindfolded guy doing the trans on Goody's Dads' car on Overhauling, didn't bother doing them and just changed the clutches and steels.   If you don't change those seals, you can end up not having a couple of gears such as Reverse or 3rd after putiing it back in. Then it would all have to come apart again.

I learned that the hard way the very first time I did a tranny back in '83.  I welded up my own threaded clamp to compress the hi gear drum to compress the springs to pull out the retaining ring.    Look at your drums with all of the clutches out of it. The lower remaining piece is the piston, that has the two seals still on it. The one with the springs still on it is the one that will be a real puta to get off.     Once you  get the seals changed, use lots of tranny fluid to lube it up and work the seal lips with a thin feeler guage to get it back it.   Work slowly or you will cut the lips.

 Getting the big piston out and back in is the hardest part of rebuilding a trans.  Also, the front pump bolts snap off very easily so just snug them up if you don't use a torque wrench. If you snap one, pull the pump back off to unthread it with a pair of pliers.

Good luck with it.

Rob

[ShelbyDogg]

If you ever drop the balls out of a valve body, you can look at the separator plate and see where the balls were rolling.  That will help you get them back where they belong.