Rebuilding the trani

[tactransman]

727 is the same only BIGGER parts.

[RDF]

I'll be starting the tear-down tonight.  I'll check the end play first, then take off the rear seal as noted to do by TTM.  Once that's done, I'll start from the top and work my way through.  I've got my book as a guidence, so hopefully things won't go too bad. 

[RDF]

Ok, started to tear it down tonight.  First, I put the trani in low gear, then removed the linkage levers from the housing.  Then I removed the neutral safety switch and after that I removed the speedometer bullit (see 1st pic).  I then removed the bolt on the extension housing and flipped the trani on it's side.  Dropped the pan, removed the 10 bolts holding the valve body on, removed the spring and placed the valve body aside.  I then sat the trani upright again, and removed the two screws next to the speedometer bullit and peeled back the gasket to expose the large snap-ring.  Using one hand to spread the snap-ring, I gentle tapped the housing with a dead weight hammer and it slide right off.  Sorry I couldn't take pictures while I was working on it, but no one was around, only my daughter as seen in one of the pics.  She loves to help me work on my car, and she's only 3.    I let her do what she wants, I figure the more she can learn, the better off she'll be.      

I'm off to bed, but I'll be back at it tomorrow afternoon around 2pm through 5pm so I'll post more progress and pictures then.  Oh and FYI, I just ordered the transGo TF-2 shift kit from http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=2&Product_Code=T22171 so that should be in next week sometime. 

The last pic is my lighting setup.  Because I'm mainly working on this at night, I don't have very good lighting in my garage, so I had these laying around and used them, they work awesome, plus give off some great heat.  Good for some of our colder nights!

TTM, the 2ns to last pic is the rear gear (I'm sure you don't need me to tell you that), but I wanted you to check it out, it looks brand new, no knicks or dings in it whatsoever. 

[GoodysGotaCuda]

YEP YEP, , What did ya think about the rebuild on Goody's Dads tranny......BLINDFOLDED?!?!?!

Ah dont worry, a whole different trans went in  with a gear vendors 

[tactransman]

Ah dont worry, a whole different trans went in  with a gear vendors 

That explains the extension housing laying around with the GV adapter at the end.

[tactransman]

Look'in good Bob! What did you decide on for cleaning the case and ext. housing, oven cleaner and the car wash? If you do, do not get it on you ( it burns ) and spray it in ADEQUATE ventalation or it will put you on the floor.
Next steps are the good parts.

[RDF]

Look'in good Bob! What did you decide on for cleaning the case and ext. housing, oven cleaner and the car wash? If you do, do not get it on you ( it burns ) and spray it in ADEQUATE ventalation or it will put you on the floor.
Next steps are the good parts.

Actually my daughter had the most fun cleaning it with a rag and some carb cleaner.  I would spray it on for her (while she was about 10 feet away) and the she would come over with a clean rag and clean it up.  That's why it looks 'spotty' clean in certain places in the pics.  That's her rubbing it all around.     I'll prob. use the oven cleaner and a car wash to get the heavy stuff off.  I should plug all the holes so nothing gets inside right?

[tactransman]

"Assemble" it together with two pan bolts holding the pan on and two bolts holding the extension housing on. Spray it all down, wait 10-15 minutes, spray it all again, then wait 20 to 30 minutes and wash it off at the car wash ( prefferably one with warm water) If you want it perfect you might have to repeat the whole process, just don't let the oven cleaner dry on it. Best place to get the oven cleaner is Dollar General, Easy Off brand is $3 something a can, DG brand is $1.00. Take it all apart, blow it off with compressed air and then set the case and housing in front of your lights for a while (real close) and get some heat into them, it will dry the "pores" of the aluminum and your paint will stick better.

[tactransman]

Bob, here is a picture to explain what I was talking about in the PM

[RDF]

Ok, another day and more parts are out!    After talking with TTM, I put the trani back together and took it down to the local car war and used oven cleaner on it (as recommended) and sprayed it down with the hose.  All was good except the camera's watching me and the big huge sign that said no dumping of chemicals or other polutants down the drains.  Oh well, I guess the cops will be at my house soon. 

Got it back home, disassembled to where I was last night and started again.  Removed the snap ring from the rear shaft and then removed the bearing.  Took out the small e-clip on the governor and then pushed the governor out.  I then removed the other snap-ring holding the governor housing in place and took off the housing.  All went well.  I'm stuck on the removing the pump now.  I bought a slide hammer about 2 weeks ago and didn't realize it was a heavy duty one, for trucks, so it's of no use to me.  I tried to pry (as per instructions from TTM (See pic above))  but I had no luck.    Should I see the front (where the converter sits) move when I pry?  I tried looking at it and it never moved.  Seems like something is still holding it, but I could be wrong.

TTM, should I remove the band lever (??)  that is part of the band adjuster?  It's hard for me to explain, but when I backed out the adjuster bolt, the band clamp lossened all the way and a small, 2" metal piece was able to come out.

At any rate, that's where my journey ends tonight.  I'll be back at it tomorrow, prob. around the same times.

As you can see in the pics, the housing looks 100% cleaner, although I missed some small areas, 95% is cleaner.

[tactransman]

The pump is tight in a 904. Your going to have to make your slide hammer work. Make an adapter for the end of it to go in a 3/8 coarse thread hole and screw it in the pump body hole with the threads ( there is two across from one another) Put the slide hammer in the pump bolt hole that is threaded farthest from the pan surface,slide back at the hammer and then pry the screw driver,then smack with the slide hammer then pry with the screw driver, back and forth , back and forth. This keeps the pump from binding. Yes , you should notice the pump coming out. The band lever can stay in, you need to look at the lever and see what numbers are stamped on it,on the side, kind of hard to see. It should be a 2.9-3.2 or 3.8 . 3.8 will give you the firmest second gear shift. If it is not you can change it. The 2 inch piece of metal is the band strut. It is suppose to come out.

[reflections7]

I did my own and it really wasnt bad to do.  As I took the parts out I laid them in order they would go back then changed all the hard parts and seals. Have fun and goood luck. 

[tactransman]

The Torqueflite is the simplest 3 speed transmission out there. If you lay everything out like  reflections7 did, your half way there!

[RDF]

Pump is OUT!    After prying at it with a bigger pry bar, it popped loose and out it came.  I had to follow the instructions on taking it out because it's pretty much just loose in there, there's only 1 snap ring holding things on in the middle.

TTM, the shift lever I have is 3.2, so we'll be sure to 'upgrade' that in the kit.  Pics 4 + 5 show the lone snap ring inside the housing and pics 2+3 show the thrust washer that seperates a few parts.  I didn't see one on mine, but I'm gonna have a closer look at the parts to see if they may be stuck to the ends of one. 

When and if I find the washers, should I continue onto the disassebly of the inner parts?  Just keep following the book?  If so, I'll try to be back at it tonight, but can't promise anything, most likely it will be tomorrow night.

[RDF]

TTM, here's the images I was talking to you about: