Twisted Fish 6.1 Pro-Touring, Channeled, bagged, finaly going back together!

[go-fish]

One more question, how the heck are you going to mount your lower Air Ride 4 link bars. I'm thinking about putting mine inside the frame rails.

[conv340]

What hood is that? I know it's an AAR but which brand?

Its from USbodysource the Y.O. one hit my intake and it looked "sagged" This one looks good and is much stronger but has no cut outs. It also weighs more then the Y.O. one did ( not much more) It has a full frame so it doesn't feel like it will warp when you close it. I have the light springs. and the factory latch. http://www.usbodysource.com/

One more question, how the heck are you going to mount your lower Air Ride 4 link bars. I'm thinking about putting mine inside the frame rails.

oh darn I new I forgot something when I welded up that rear torque box  I was going to take a pic for you today but forgot. I'll post a older pic that will help it make sense. basically it comes out though the hole in the box. I moved it up right next to the frame. If you measure ( because the frame is at an angle) you don't gain any more space if you go into the frame. That was my first idea too. I have over 15 inches of space from the wheel well to the lower bar and only 15 at the rear. But that fits a 345 tire 
Danica Patrick's Camaro was the car that made me stop and look at Boze wheels.

[conv340]

Confederate Cuda had asked a couple of questions. If I had decided on the trans and exhaust I was going to send some pics so I thought I'd share.
I have been lagging in that area. I'm still sulking about the auto stick! ha ha. I am 90 percent sure I'm doing the TKO 5 speed and would then go back to the TTI headers. I had them and sent them back dang it! They hit the passenger side starter location. From what I saw I don't think they would have any issues with the 5 speed. I will use the x pipe exhaust in 3" Did you know the factory SRT-8 exhaust is 2.75 in most places (theres a couple of spots where is necks down to 2.5") Thats big for factory. The hesitation is well money for one and I have been talking to the guys at FAST about the development of a trans controller for the A580 auto-stick. But I think its to little to late I have reservations about the trans durability if you push it hard, and the stick is in my blood now!
He also was curious about the intake tubes.
I did make the air intake from mandrel bends. if you want fresh air you almost have to go into the fenders there is very little space in the front with the grill going back to the rad support. I also have symmetry issues. In the wheel well there is a 90deg silicone hose and a filter pointing into the lower grille.
Some pics 

[ntstlgl1970]

Hey Bob,
so are you going to mount the front bumper off the front of the frame since the air intakes are sorta fighting for the same space as the bumper brakcets?
also, are you going to SEMA this year?

[conv340]

so are you going to mount the front bumper off the front of the frame since the air intakes are sorta fighting for the same space as the bumper brakcets?
also, are you going to SEMA this year?

I'm planing on doing a bumper delete in the front. But the 90's are silicone and will rotate/flex They would clear the bumper bracket if needed. I would probably trim off a inch so it doesn't hook back tight to the body. ( just not as much "ram air" )
I would like to go but it's hard to get the time off work.

[MoparCar]

Is it on the rims yet?
I need my update fix

[2000gt]

conv, do you think you'll be able to cut the factory hole in the scoop of the hood or are you just going to go without?  I've been looking for an AAR hood for a while, you'd recommend that one over the YO piece?

[vinb]

Engineering at its best, nice looking ride you got their. We can't wait to see the finished product...
No Coffee breaks, keep the train rolling........

[conv340]

Is it on the rims yet?
I need my update fix

I wish! the rims haven't been fished yet so I've been doing other things while I wait.
I've been doing a lot of work on the rear. I bead blasted all the rear lights and fitted them. I'm going to smooth all the bezels into the body so there are no seams. I will be leaving the marker lights. All the hotroders seem to delete them I think they look cool, and are "frenched" from the factory. Without the seams they look even thinner.
I think told you about the rear bumper and trying to decide how best to fit it to the body. I had been going back and forth on how far to go with fitting the bumper. I took off the brackets and started moving the bumper in closer and up tighter to the tail panel. Man I tell you the bumper is just about a perfect fit. By moving it up and in just about all the gaps close up and it looks great. The lower one of course gets bigger. I modified the brackets and tacked them in place to hold the bumper in its new location. Then I added 3/8 of an inch to the bottom of the bumper I matched the curve of the side of the car as it wraps around. It fits so well that the top of the bumper where it sits in the pocket looks bad. So I made a new cap and modified the top as well The other thing about the rear bumper that is in question is the bumperets. On most of the customs I've seen so far they delete them and smooth off the lower valance. It looks ok but changes the look of the back of the car. I wanted to keep all the original iconic pieces that make it a Cuda. But what to do with them they stick out and don't fit the smooth slick lines. Also after moving the bumper up they don't fit very well.  So I have to do something. Time to modified them. I cut them down so they don't stick out past the bumper and angled them in to match the body lines. Then I spread the inside to fill up the gap on the valance. ( no rubber insert required) It came out great. It's one of those "its looks stock, but why does it look so much better" kinda things I love. I've got 16 hours so far on the bumper! I'll post some pics of it going together it will make more sense. The end result is a nice tight fitting bumper. Once you start its hard to stop.  I also cut the body and modified the quarters where they wrap around to the tail light panel. So the curve now matches the angle of the bumper. But hay now I'm happy with the rear bumper. 
The front has been disasembled so I can finish cleaning up the front inner fenders and seal them up.  Then I can install the front suspension and set this puppy on the ground. It has been over a year since it has sat on it's own 4 wheels. Soon I hope to have my new wheels to put on. Man will that be cool. I can't wait to see it! 

I also started the body work. I started in the back on the new quarters and trunk lid. The new parts may be good but they still need lots of work to make them perfect. Man, I tell you what, body work sure is dusty!  once it rolls easier I will do most of the dirty work by the front door to make clean up faster. It took a good hour to clean the dust out of every thing.

I don't know if I mentioned it before but after everything is sealed I'm going to coat it all with Lizard Skin. http://www.lizardskin.com I'll let you read the description but I think it sounds like a good idea. I ordered some and a gun to shoot it well see how it turns out!

I had talked to Electric life about power windows They make the front but they don't think there is enough interest in the rear kits to produce yet. The cool news is XV motorsports has just released their 4 window kit complete with harness and ( ugly) switches. I ordered a set but they seem to be having a problem they aren't quite ready to ship. I'll let you know how they look when I get them. I'll be mounting my switches in the console there's some cool illuminated black ones I like. Not the Chevy switchs XV uses 

conv, do you think you'll be able to cut the factory hole in the scoop of the hood or are you just going to go without?  I've been looking for an AAR hood for a while, you'd recommend that one over the YO piece?

You could there wouldn't be a rain gutter so water could get in. I can't use the scoop anyway so I was going to leave it sealed. I will be putting a lip across the top and putting mesh in the hole so it will look functional.

[IMNCARN82]

  Did you add onto that bumper and notch those bumper guards deeper?  Hmmmm.

[conv340]

I changed a couple of pics on that last post so you can see the bumper mods better. But yes and they also no longer have a seem to the bumper. The bumper will be body color when done.

[Lunchbox]

Great update  it's inspiring reading your progress and seeing your pics.

Lunch

[Jacksboys]

Looking good 

[IMNCARN82]

I changed a couple of pics on that last post so you can see the bumper mods better. But yes and they also no longer have a seem to the bumper. The bumper will be body color when done.

Very good idea on that bumper. Did you fab up some shorter brackets too?   I really like the tight fit.

[MoparCar]

Your progress and talents again amaze me 
I agree with other comments on your bumper-awesome idea and look. I would assume since you'll be painting it body color that once all the metal fabrication is complete on the bumper its finished like any other painted item? Weld, grind, straighten, fill?  Will you be hiding the mounting bolts also from the back and filling the rest of the rear valence at the now modified bumperettes?

I'm really anxious to see it on the wheels/tires. It's going to look awesome at least.