Author Topic: 72 Cuda g-machine - 2016 update (Read 219566 times)

GranCuda1970 · « **Reply #330 on:** May 17, 2011 - 11:01:39 AM »

Fantastic Work!! Looks like it was meant to be there.

Travis72 · « **Reply #331 on:** May 17, 2011 - 10:16:21 PM »

I've been writing a little bit each night to try and catch this thread up to where I am today.....

While doing all the other wiring I tackled the FAST install as well. First I had to figure out where to put both ECUs (XFI and XIM). I debated it for a while but I finally decided on the passenger kick panel area. The ECUs have LED diagnostic lights on them and I figured it would be good to actually be able to view the lights. The two ECUs are different shapes and I decided to mount them staggered so that both sets of LEDs would be visible. Like this:

Next I needed a bracket to mount them to, so I designed a standoff bracket to be able to mount the ECUs. So I made a quick bracket out of aluminum sheet and bent a prototype to shape using my workbench and a hammer. It came out decent. However, my best friend�s girlfriend�s father (lol that�s a mouthful) works in a machine shop that has a sheet metal brake. So I cut another one to shape and had him bend it on the brake. It came out much nicer. Since it�s hard to see when it�s in the car here�s how it looks with the two ECUs. The only downside is I�ll loose the normal antenna cable hole and I�ll have to come up with a custom kick panel.

I then used a knockout punch to cut the 2� hole that�s required in the firewall. You can use a hole saw but with the tight under dash area, the knockout punch worked great and went through the firewall like butter. The FAST XFI harness comes with the grommet built in to the harness. What sucks is the XIM also requires a large hole to run it�s harness through as well. To be honest, to make it really nice you should take all the harnesses apart and integrate them like Bob (Twisted Fish) did. I wasn�t that brave because the first time I go to start it and it doesn�t start I didn�t want to be second guessing myself on if it�s something I did. This is where you should build the car first then take it all apart.

Anyway, here�s just the bottom XIM mounted directly to the kickpanel.

And here it is with both ECUs mounted.

Here�s the resulting mass of wires that you have to deal with. Actually the wires aren�t really the problem it�s the relays and fuse holders that take up a lot of space. Especially when combined with the Vintage Air wiring. Once the car is running I�ll get brave enough to shorten wires and remove the add on harness that aren�t needed to help clean up the engine bay (most of the harnesses are too long).

Two things I learned about installing the FAST system. One it ships with a Inlet Air Temperature (IAT) sensor, however that sensor doesn�t work with the harness.

You have to buy a stock Dodge Charger/Magnum SRT-8 IAT sensor (p/n AX109) which is ~$20. Not a big deal but its just strange that they bother shipping the whole setup with a sensor that doesn�t go with their harness.

The other thing is that the Crank Position Sensor (CPS) changed over the years of hemi engines. Of course the one on my engine is different then the one that connects to the harness. The part number sensor I needed was 56028815AA. Here�s a picture of the two sensors, the bigger one on the right is the one you need.

I also bought and installed a Lokar throttle cable. I made a quick bracket to attach it to the intake manifold. I ran the cable through the square hole where the stock accelerator cable ran. I also needed to figure out the heater hose routing (I�m not going to worry about the AC for a while). So I bought a Vintage Air two hole bulkhead. The AC lines I�ll run through the fender well, but the heater hoses I kept in the engine bay. I was originally going to put the bulkhead as close to the heater hose outlets as possible (right behind the intake manifold), but that area is congested with all the wiring. Plus on the inside of the firewall it would be really tight to the Vintage Air box. So I decided to put them all the way over to the inner fenders. This maximized clearance for everything else. I turned the bulkhead at an angle to match the angle of the inner fender. Its not perfect but I think it looks pretty good and its out of the way of everything. It�s still a shame to have to put holes in the firewall that I spent so much time smoothing. Anyway, in this picture you can see the throttle cable and bulkhead, etc. The heater hose was just on there for mockup purposes. I'm planning on getting some right angle hoses.

I think one more post and I'll be caught up.

Travis
72 Cuda

Travis72 · « **Reply #332 on:** May 19, 2011 - 12:13:56 PM »

Then I focused on the front headlight harness in particular the headlights and turn signals. I�m running H4 bulbs and relays for the low and high beams. The relays come with sockets and pigtail wires running from there. In the interest of getting rid of 8 more butt connectors I pulled the terminals from the relay sockets and bought just the relay terminals. The ones for the relay body are a slightly different size but Delcity wire and other places have the correct terminals. Here�s what the relay terminals look like (crimped and soldered):

One advantage of this is on the drivers side it allowed me to run the headlight socket wires directly to the relay terminals as shown:

I decided to mount the relays on the radiator core support under the hood pin bracket. There was an existing hole there that goes in to the wheel well side so I only had to drill one additional hole. The relay sockets interlock with each other.

I then decided to do the sidemarker light flash modification as described here:
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/markerflash/markerflash.html
However since I was planning on running LED bulbs everywhere I had to follow the instructions on the bottom of the page and use a relay to trigger the flash. His description of what signal goes where on the relay was a little confusing so here�s my words: Pin 85 � parking light feed, pin 86 � turn signal feed, pin 87 � goes to the sidemarker, pin 30 is a constant hot signal. The sidemarker light then uses the normal ground wire. I mounted one relay on each side inside the wheel well.

It turns out this didn�t really work for some reason. What I found was that with LED bulbs in the front lower grille and in the sidemarkers I couldn�t trigger the relay to do anything. However, if I used a normal test probe light and probed pin 86 on the relay it would work. So just that slight amount of extra resistance from the bulb in the test probe would make it work. I tried swapping the LED sidemarker lights for normal bulbs but that didn�t work. So finally I swapped the front parking light LEDs for normal bulbs and then everything works correctly. It would probably work if I installed load resistors on to the wires running to the relays. However, running load resistors almost seems to defeat the purpose of running LEDs in the first place.

When the parking lights are off the sidemarkers flash in sync, although quicker than the parking lights due to the LED bulbs. When the parking lights are on, then the sidemarkers lights flash out of sync. The other funny thing about this mod is that the electronic flashers are silent however the relays cycling on and off give it a loud click click sound (but I doubt you�ll be able to hear it over the engine).

After testing the headlights and all front lights I finished the wiring under the dash so I finally hooked up a battery temporarily (up until this point I had been using a small battery charger to test the car circuit by circuit). I cleaned up the FAST wiring and tried to route it around the interior as best I could. I still need to secure some of the relays and fuses built in to the harness. Finally I got all of the wiring under the dash completed and it felt like a major accomplishment to get rid of the wires hanging down under the dash. I also powered on the FAST ECUs and communicated to them via a laptop and flashed in the new XFI 2.0 firmware which is supposed to allow the system to self-tune.

Sorry for all the posts back to back, but that basically catches me up to where I am now. I have just a few wires to connect in the engine bay, and then I need to build new battery cables and the alternator wiring plus wire in a master disconnect switch. Then I�m basically a fuel tank and a radiator away from being able to start the engine. I�m still undecided on the fuel tank, but I�m leaning towards the aluminum ones from Hot Rod City garage.

Travis
72 Cuda

barracuda7199 · « **Reply #333 on:** May 19, 2011 - 12:31:39 PM »

awesome car build you have alot of talent!

johns cuda shop · « **Reply #334 on:** May 19, 2011 - 04:10:16 PM »

Awesome build !! ,Looks like your getting closer to hearing the engine fire.

MoparCar · « **Reply #335 on:** May 19, 2011 - 07:53:54 PM »

Travis-looking great at always!
Wes

brandonkuhn · « **Reply #336 on:** June 08, 2011 - 10:33:33 PM »

Hey for a tank check out rickstanks.com I saw them at good guys show. Guy is out of El Paso texas and the tanks look awesome.

hpe600rt · « **Reply #337 on:** June 12, 2011 - 05:26:32 PM »

very nice job just love it

Travis72 · « **Reply #338 on:** July 10, 2011 - 03:32:31 PM »

Since I had a shooting match this morning I�m too hot and tired to work on the car so I thought I should update the thread.

I had a minor struggle with the starter. I first tried a late model truck starter (supposed to be equivalent to the Mopar mini-starter) but it didn�t fit with the headers. These are TTI headers made for the AlterKation front suspension. I probably could have dented a tube to make it fit but I didn�t want to do that. So I bought a RobbMC starter since I�ve heard really good things about them. The first issue is that the block has two cast bolt holes where the stock oil pan bolted to. These holes are not used on the Charlie�s oil pan, so I had to cut them off with a cut off wheel. If you�re going to run a Charlie�s oil pan, you should cut them off before you put the engine in the car so you�re not having to lay on your back trying to cut them off. Maybe with the non-AlterKation headers the Mopar mini-starter would fit?

The advantage of the RobbMC starter is that you can clock the pinion is any orientation. That allowed it to clear the header. It�s basically a longer, narrower design.

The next weird thing was the pinion support snout would bottom out on the back of the bellhousing starter pocket before the starter was fully seated. I could add washers under the starter to make up the difference but then the flywheel was not at the proper depth. I finally bit the bullet and took a grinder to the pinion support snout to make it fit. I haven�t tried turning the motor over yet, but I�m hoping I won�t have any flywheel engagement issues.

In the interest of tying up some loose ends I finally made a bracket and welded it to the frame rail to support the steering linkage bearing. My angles are good, but it�s recommended that if you have two u-joints to install the bearing so I did.

I ended up getting new fuel rails. I was debating it but when I installed the engine the engine lift chain tore a hole in the factory fuel crossover line, so I decided it was easier to just get new fuel rails which sets me up for future upgrades anyway. These are Fore Precision fuel rails from Arrington.

I�ll make another post on the radiator and fuel system which is my next two big items to install.

Travis
72 Cuda

MoparCar · « **Reply #339 on:** July 10, 2011 - 10:34:46 PM »

Travis,
Nice update and great tips!

Wes

Travis72 · « **Reply #340 on:** July 11, 2011 - 10:36:50 PM »

I originally planned to use a Ron Davis radiator as they are supposed to be top of the line. However once I learned the price for even an off the shelf radiator I decided to look at other options. I ended up choosing a Griffin Dominator radiator mainly because it uses 2 rows of 1 �� tubes and is reasonably priced. Most radiators only use 1� tubes. They offer a Dominator radiator for the Cuda with a LS swap (who knows why)

so it actually has both the inlet and outlet on the passenger side like I needed. It seems well built. It does bolt in to the Cuda however the bottom outlet would hit the AlterKation K-member so I ended up having to widen the bolt holes to space it up ��. One of downsides is the top outlet is only 1.25� while the engine is a 1.75� hose (I guess that�s what an Chevy LS motor uses?). So I had to buy a goofy hose adapter to make up the difference. Hopefully this will meet all my cooling needs.

For an electric fan I decided to save some money and I bought an eBay Lincoln MK VIII fan (that�s now my second Ford part (the other being the rear brake calipers)) LOL I�ve always heard that these fans blow more air then any other OEM type fan plus they should have OEM reliability. A place on eBay replaces any bearings or other parts that are worn and re-sells them. It came to me looking brand new. I considered a Viper electric fan but after months of searching I could never find a used one and a new one is 4x the cost of what I paid for the VIII fan.

After trimming off the mounting brackets, the fan fits the 26� radiator like it was designed for it.

So I needed a way of mounting the fan to the radiator and I came up with making 4 tabs that I had welded to the bottom shield on the radiator (it�s a piece of aluminum that doesn�t connect to the tubes or anything). I don�t have the capability to weld aluminum so I had to take it to someone to weld.

The fan basically sits on these 4 tabs and they support the weight of the fan. I was just going to run a bolt through the hole I drilled in the shroud and either use self tapping screws or try to squeeze my hand through the fan to get a nut on the inside. I was showing it to a buddy of mine who works on his own airplane and he suggested using a floating nut plate. So I took it down to him and we used countersunk rivets to hold on the nut plate which now makes it a piece of cake to take the fan on and off. On the top I made C clamp brackets that squeeze down on the shroud with a tight fit plus another nut plate and bolt. I�m worried the C clamps might vibrate off over time, so if they do I�ll make a L shaped bracket, that then bolts on to the radiator core support.

Tomorrow I�ll post up on the fuel system (which I�m not quite done with yet).

Travis
72 Cuda

thedodgeboys · « **Reply #341 on:** July 11, 2011 - 11:15:39 PM »

Ops sorry Ttravis I should have remembered the bolt holes by the starter I hit mine with a grinder, don't forget to dab a little paint on the Bair metal :-)

She looks good I like the fan mounts pretty cool.

ambitions2 · « **Reply #342 on:** July 12, 2011 - 12:03:07 PM »

Travis -

The car looks superb, that is going to be a monster. Good luck with the rest, I know we are all waiting for more pictures!

Travis72 · « **Reply #343 on:** July 13, 2011 - 01:01:33 AM »

So on the fuel system I really wanted the Rick�s stainless tank with the Vaporworx fuel system mod (those of you on pro-touring.com will know what I�m talking about... it uses an OEM 2010 Camaro fuel module). However that setup is close to 2K by the time you are done buying everything.

It sure looks like the ultimate setup but I just couldn�t afford it.

So I was back trying to figure out what to do about a tank. John from Johns Cuda Shop on here bought one of the aluminum fuel tanks from Bouchillon and so based on his recommendation and the pictures he sent me that�s what I went with. The tanks are actually made by Jeff at Hot Rod City garage in California who I bought from direct (you can also get them from several distributors). The tank is very nicely made and has a Walbro 255 lph in tank fuel pump and comes with an Isspro sender that you have to install. The fuel pump pickup sits in a sump in the front of the tank surrounded by baffling. So I�m hopeful that this will be a really nice setup. Since the sump is in the front (plus my car sits low) you don�t notice it at all. Only when I back down the incline of my driveway can I see the sump and then it looks like it�s almost part of the rearend housing. Lol

Here�s a shot I took looking in from the fuel sender location trying to show the fuel pump and the baffling around the pump.

The tank installs using the factory straps and fits just like a stocker. You have to modify the filler neck because the tank has an outlet instead of just a hole like the stock tank. I had to cut a couple inches off the filler neck and then use the provided large heavy duty hose to connect it to the tank. Plus I had to open up the hole in the trunk floor seal. The other mod I had to do was notch the shock crossmember to allow clearance to get the fuel fittings installed which I�ll show in a future post.

Here�s how it looks all installed from under the car.

Finally the other thing I�ve been putting off is completing the power steering lines and running them to the hydroboost and rack. I used Aeroquip Teflon lines for the power steering pressure hoses and a PSC fluid reservoir (the 6.1 PS pump does not have a reservoir). Then on the return lines I use Fragola 8000 Series push lock hose. I really like the look and feel of the Fragola hose. It�s basically rubber hose with a cloth type outer braid. Much lighter then SS and it won�t rub the paint off of everything like SS does. I wish they made high pressure hoses using this type of covering. The push lock hoses are a PITA to install on to the fittings so I don�t think they are going anywhere but to be sure I also installed their clamps (however I�m thinking they are un-necessary). I was worried with the SS and then the black return hoses that it might look a little goofy but I think it came out OK. I still need to install the final -12 AN hose from the reservoir to the pump. I guess for now I�m just going to use a hose clamp, but I might try and weld on an AN fitting on to the pump outlet. I'm also going to copy what Scott did and use the empty shock hole to mount a clamp to keep the pressure hoses together.

I also installed a Derale heat sink cooler. There is a surprising lack of room to mount it anywhere convenient but I finally picked a place on the radiator core support. It won�t get a ton of air because it�s basically behind the bumper but just by the design of the heat sink itself it should help dissipate heat.

That basically catches me back up to where the car sits today. I�m working on completing the flexible fuel lines at the front and the rear of the car and should have that done in a few weekends (I can�t believe how much money I�ve already spent on lines and fittings!!!). Plus I need to get a driveshaft on order. After that I need to give the car a complete once over, but I think I will be ready to actually try and start the engine. I�m getting excited and nervous now.

Travis
72 Cuda

GoodysGotaCuda · « **Reply #344 on:** July 13, 2011 - 08:30:41 AM »

Car looks awesome! Did you beef up the shock towers for the coil-over load?

Author Topic: 72 Cuda g-machine - 2016 update (Read 219566 times)

GranCuda1970

Re: 72 Cuda g-machine build up - engine and trans installed

Travis72

Re: 72 Cuda g-machine build up - engine and trans installed

Travis72

Re: 72 Cuda g-machine build up - engine and trans installed

barracuda7199

Re: 72 Cuda g-machine build up - engine and trans installed

johns cuda shop

Re: 72 Cuda g-machine build up - engine and trans installed

MoparCar

Re: 72 Cuda g-machine build up - engine and trans installed

brandonkuhn

Re: 72 Cuda g-machine build up - engine and trans installed

hpe600rt

Re: 72 Cuda g-machine build up - engine and trans installed

Travis72

Re: 72 Cuda g-machine build up - getting closer

MoparCar

Re: 72 Cuda g-machine build up - finally getting closer

Travis72

Re: 72 Cuda g-machine build up - finally getting closer

thedodgeboys

Re: 72 Cuda g-machine build up - finally getting closer

ambitions2

Re: 72 Cuda g-machine build up - finally getting closer

Travis72

Re: 72 Cuda g-machine build up - finally getting closer

GoodysGotaCuda

Re: 72 Cuda g-machine build up - finally getting closer