72 Cuda g-machine - 2016 update

Author Topic: 72 Cuda g-machine - 2016 update  (Read 221072 times)

Offline Travis72

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Re: 72 Cuda g-machine - sorting the bugs out
« Reply #435 on: September 01, 2012 - 08:28:37 PM »
I guess its time for another update.  After putting in the driveshaft loop I finished up the Damplifer on the floorboards.  I then covered that with a layer of Second Skin’s Heat Wave Pro.

 

Having driven the car a bunch with just the bare floor boards the 2 products combined have definitely made a big difference with the heat and noise.

Where the subframe connectors come through the floorboards I added extra layers of the heat insulation to make up the difference in height.  I then got the carpet out of the storage closet.  I knew it had been in there a long time but I didn’t know how long until I looked at the box.  Yes the carpet is already 9.5 years old!!!



The extra insulation made the carpet not fit that well in some spots.  In particular around the seat belt bolt holes.  I ended up having to mess with that area a lot and I had to cut back some of the heat insulation plus the jute on the back of the carpet to make the seat belt bolts fit.  Other than that area, it wasn’t too bad.... especially considering how long its been rolled up in the box!  I used a soldering iron to make the holes which is a tip I learned on here and that worked great!



I got the seats back from the upholstery shop and I think they turned out nice.  On the front seating surface they are black suede and gray perforated suede.  It makes them nice and cool in the summer sun plus the suede is grippy to help hold you in the seat.  The rest of the seat is synthetic leather.







Not shown in these pictures but I did end up cutting the front of the seat bracket down to change the angle of the seat slightly.  It was too close to the steering wheel.

The only other thing I’ve been working on is installing the battery in the trunk.  Spectre (the air filter guys) came out with a cool side loading battery box.  It allowed me to put the battery right over the axle for hopefully better handling.  I had to make some metal angle brackets that I welded in the trunk because this area of the trunk is not flat.  Plus I had to cut out the spare tire carrier (another one of those things that I wish I would have done before painting the car).  :-\ Here’s how the battery box mounts in the trunk.



There is a cover for the front and back that makes it a sealed box.  The other decision I had to make was where to put the battery cut off switch.  I used to have it mounted through the trunk, but I didn’t like that location because it complicated the routing of the cables and it ended up awful close to the exhaust.  So I ended up welding it on to the down bar of the roll bar.  I also bought a remote rod kit that I will route through an old beat up reverse light that I have which will make the car NHRA legal for those trips to the track.






It took me a long time to get the battery cables all made and routed.  In summer its so hot here that I could only work like an hour at a time, even in the morning (garage would only cool off to like 90 degrees at 5 am).  I used 1/0 welding cable for the main starter feed and #1 gauge cable for the alternator feed to the battery.  The #1 gauge is overkill, but I figure with the high amp alternator of the 6.1L Hemi and the amount of electronics on the car it was better safe than sorry.  I soldered all the ends using solder slugs and a propane torch.  I used the stock 6.1L alternator cable to run from the alternator to a terminal point on the drivers inner fender.  Then the #1 cable from there to the battery cutoff, then through a 250 amp fuse.  I also ran new 1/0 ground cables, including welding a nut to the rear frame rail to provide a solid ground connection.  I have to drive the car some more but it appears that the new ground wires might have fixed my fuel level gauge problem.  The 1/0 starter feed I’ll run through a Ford starter solenoid so that it will only be hot when cranking the car.  I have the cables all made for that, I just need to run the ignition switch trigger.

Anyway, that’s it for now.  There is a laundry list of things I still need to complete plus clean up, etc. not to mention finishing the interior.

Travis
72 Cuda





Offline barracuda7199

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Re: 72 Cuda g-machine - sorting the bugs out
« Reply #436 on: September 03, 2012 - 12:28:46 PM »
looking good travis as always!! quality is the word that comes to mind on this build i know you are dying to finish it and get to drive it instead of wrench on it..
Brandon

71 Barracuda 440 727                                                                 
(O O {]{]{]|[}[}[} O O)

Offline TROUBLE987

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72 Cuda g-machine - sorting the bugs out
« Reply #437 on: September 20, 2012 - 10:57:29 PM »
Travis did you ever get the car to set down in the back like you wanted?If you did what did you end up doing?Different springs?I have the same stuff you got just was wanting to see before I got that point..thx

Offline Travis72

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Re: 72 Cuda g-machine - sorting the bugs out
« Reply #438 on: September 21, 2012 - 12:47:28 AM »
Actually I decided I was happy with the height in the rear and instead I've been slowly raiseing the front of the car.  My car is pretty low and scrapes the exhaust over speed bumbs.  So that's why I've been lifting the front a little at a time just trying to remove some of the rake.

Travis
72 Cuda

Offline Travis72

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Re: 72 Cuda g-machine - depressed.... broken already
« Reply #439 on: December 18, 2012 - 02:22:12 AM »
Well I’ve been bummed for a few weeks now... but I’m going to try and lay it all out.  This will be a long post so bear with me.  My intent with this thread has always been to help folks learn from my mistakes, so hopefully you won’t screw up like I have....

Mid-November I took the car in for the final full throttle tune.  It turns out these new Hemi’s don’t like a lot of timing.  In fact it made max power at only 24 degrees of timing (not 32 - 36 like the old engines I’m used to).  It made 401 hp and 428 torque at the wheels which is ~460 hp at the engine if you believe 15% drivetrain loss.  It did smoke a lot on decell and always has (even the first time I took it to the dyno). I thought maybe I didn't have the breathers right or something.....  Here’s a dyno video.

IMG 0060


Here’s the dyno chart:




After getting the car dyno tuned it was running great.  Smooth, tons of power and driveability was really good.  I was almost home when I punch it from a start go through the gears and shift to 5th. After that I noticed that it was popping out the exhaust. I limp it home and it was popping at random even at idle.

So I pulled the plugs on a Friday and the first thing I notice is the plugs on the #1 cylinder are smashed (bottom 2 in this picture).  Oh crap.



Just for the heck of it I put new plugs in on the drivers side cylinders (passenger side ones were fine) and started up the engine.  It ran fine like nothing had ever happened.

That night I drank some scotch and was trying to convince myself that maybe something goofy happened with the spark plugs and that the engine was actually fine.  I woke up the next morning and said I had to know for sure so I decide to pull it apart.  When I pulled the driver’s side head off this is what I saw....





Yep, all 4 pistons on the drivers side are broken at the top ring land.  The #1 piston in particular is a mess with scratches and embedded metal.  You can actually see the top piston ring on some of the cylinders.

Even the combustion chamber of the #1 cylinder is a mess. Thankfully the other ones are fine.


 



So obviously I'm looking at a total rebuild of the engine.  I thought about just doing the bare minimum and replacing the broken pistons especially since the engine has so few miles on it but I was so upset with all this that I said screw it and I might as well do a stroker 426 cubic inch motor.  So I’m going to go with an all forged bottom end plus a larger cam and ported heads.  After doing a lot of reading on the LX forums I decided to have Inertia Motorsports in Texas build the stroker.  They specialize in the Gen 3 Hemi.  So out comes the engine.



I got a pallet and used 4x4’s screwed in to the pallet to brace the engine at the oil pan rail so it wasn’t sitting on the oil pan.



Then I wrapped the thing in a bunch of layers of shipping plastic shrink wrap.

[

Then I strapped it down with a couple ratchet straps and sent it freight to Texas.

Anyway it sucks....  I don’t have a good answer why.  I'm guessing all of the damage was caused by all the miles I put on the car without a tune?  Probably in particular in the summer heat.  Since it started up and ran fine with new plugs, who knows how long the damage had been done.  I’m wondering if this is why it’s always smoked so much on decell on the dyno?   :clueless:  It's strange that the damage was only on the driver's side.  When I first got the car running I only had a crossover fuel line in the rear connecting the fuel rails (like the stock fuel rails).  Later on I also added a front crossover.  Perhaps before I did that it was running lean on the drivers side?  Perhaps I need to go with a full return fuel system (even though the stock Hemi are a returnless system)?  :dunno:

Reading the forums the top ring land is the weak part of these engines.  Folks that run boost in the LX cars have seen very similar failures.  In my case one of the downsides to the FAST system is it doesn’t use the Hemi knock sensors, which perhaps if I was running a stock computer with factory knock sensors it might have saved the engine?

So that’s where I’m at.  I’m still depressed about the whole thing.  Plus before this happened, I was all set up to attend a private road course track day but obviously I had to miss out on that as well. 

I had always planned on doing a cam and ported heads, I just didn’t think it would be this soon....... If there is any positive out of all of this its that when the stroker is done it should be good for 475 - 500 rwhp.  So I’m now glad I put in the heavy duty clutch.

The other lesson learned for anyone planning a Gen 3 Hemi swap; when I bought this engine in 2007 buying it direct from Dodge was pretty much the only game in town.  Now there are a number of vendors that will either rebuild a junkyard motor into a forged stroker motor or even sell you a long block outright without a core for not much more than what I paid for the original crate motor. Check with Modern Muscle (a sponsor on here), or Interia Motorsports, or Arringington Performance or Performance Werks Racing for options.

Travis
72 Cuda

Offline grimmey71

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Re: 72 Cuda g-machine - depressed... broken already
« Reply #440 on: December 18, 2012 - 04:06:45 AM »
Sorry for your luck, but those 426 strokers are beasts.

Offline brads70

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Re: 72 Cuda g-machine - depressed... broken already
« Reply #441 on: December 18, 2012 - 06:30:18 AM »
 :sadwavey:  Bummer!  Sorry to hear this.
I guess don't look back and focus on building it better. I wonder if the aftermarket has better pistons available?
Brad
1970 Challenger 451stroker/4L60 auto OD
Barrie,Ontario,Canada
Proud to own one of the best cars ever made!!!!!

My restoration thread 
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=59072.0
 My handling upgrade post
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=73985.0

Offline dutch

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Re: 72 Cuda g-machine - depressed... broken already
« Reply #442 on: December 18, 2012 - 07:39:27 AM »
 :22yikes: dont have much to say that makes any sense... sorry to see you having such bad luck.  Good luck building your new beast , and fwiw, it sounds great in the vid  :2thumbs:
*** Bart ***

Offline GranCuda1970

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Re: 72 Cuda g-machine - depressed... broken already
« Reply #443 on: December 18, 2012 - 08:52:18 AM »
Bummer for such a sweet project. Sounds like you will have her on the road again soon.

Offline johns cuda shop

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Re: 72 Cuda g-machine - depressed... broken already
« Reply #444 on: December 18, 2012 - 10:02:21 AM »
 :popcorn:
71 Cuda Gen III Aluminum 426 Hemi T56 6 speed 4.10 8.75 Modified & Lowered RMS coilover suspension Wilwood discs

Offline 72cudamaan

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Re: 72 Cuda g-machine - depressed... broken already
« Reply #445 on: December 18, 2012 - 01:13:29 PM »
Detonation damage, fixed the timing a little too late.   :(
If I cant fix it, it's broke
 
Andy  (phukker whither)

Offline IMNCARN82

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Re: 72 Cuda g-machine - depressed... broken already
« Reply #446 on: December 18, 2012 - 01:21:51 PM »
Keep yur chin up Travis...Sorry to hear this.   :drunk:  R/T
'73 340 5 speed,RMS,BAER,... "Supercuda" (O[   ]||||[   ]O)  
'69 Dodge Charger 383,Auto                  (OiiiiiiiiiiIiiiiiiiiiiO)
13' Challenger R/T BlacktoP  6spd. (OO________OO)
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Offline Super Blue 72

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Re: 72 Cuda g-machine - depressed... broken already
« Reply #447 on: December 19, 2012 - 10:09:52 AM »
Man, real sorry to hear of this.  Thanks for posting this so others can see the details.

For what it's worth you car looked and sounded great on the dyno run.  :grinyes:
1972 Dodge Challenger Rallye 340, AT, Code TB3=Super Blue, SBD=8/17/1971.  Yes, a Rallye without the fender louvers from the factory because of the body side molding option.

Pic #2 and 3 of my ARII 1/24 scale model car 

Phil in New England-Massachusetts  Always thank God for what you have!

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Offline Raw Untamed

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Re: 72 Cuda g-machine - depressed... broken already
« Reply #448 on: December 19, 2012 - 10:27:02 PM »
Dude, you still have a badass car and now you're going to have an even badder engine.  Stuff happens, but you are working it out.  I know others that just give up and sell their stuff.
Joey

71 Challenger

Offline Haddixj

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Re: 72 Cuda g-machine - depressed... broken already
« Reply #449 on: December 20, 2012 - 06:46:52 PM »
I was wondering what guage setup you have or if you built it? Did you have any pics of the setup?