Author Topic: 72 Cuda g-machine - 2016 update (Read 221080 times)

ShelbyDogg · « **Reply #120 on:** August 01, 2008 - 05:07:47 PM »

Use a propane torch to lightly heat up a big area then scrape it off with a big putty knife. Comes off like butter. After it cools, wipe the remaining goo off with laquer thinner on a rag.

leithal · « **Reply #121 on:** August 01, 2008 - 07:13:41 PM »

I really like what your doing with your Cuda. It looks awesome. I am watching your progress with special interest. I am going to build a cuda with that restomod/ g machine theme. Have you heard anything about Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator product? I used it on a 66 fastback and after 2years it seems to be holding up really well.

Travis72 · « **Reply #122 on:** August 01, 2008 - 08:22:14 PM »

Robert, the black brace behind the rear seat is for the Air Ride 4-bar suspension. On the other side, are the upper links mounts. So it's meant to sandwich the floorpan and strengthen that area.

Yeah I use the same basic method as shelbydogg except I use a heat gun instead of a propane torch. Some spots don't scrape very well however, so for that I use 3M Paint & Rust Strip disks on a drill. They work really well and they don't take off any metal. Here's a picture after scraping, on the bottom part of the picture the undercoating came off perfectly clean, but on the top part it wasn't coming off very easy.

I don't have any experience with Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator, however the POR-15 I used came right off so I won't ever use that again. I have used Zero Rust and Rust Bullet and both of those seemed to work really well.

Travis
72 Cuda

grimmey71 · « **Reply #123 on:** August 01, 2008 - 08:46:06 PM »

I just scrapped the under coating off of my floor a few months ago(the bead blaster refused to remove it after promising to do it) since the car is on a rotisery it was easy. I then covered it with por15 which promptly pealed off. I saw you had the same issue. and now i have used dupont self etching primer for a base as i try to decied what to use as my top coat. I have used a chassis black before and thought it worked well. but its all for nothing in the looks department as I see there are some sound deadners(like dynomat) that adhere to the bottom of the cars anyway. not sure if thats the route i am going or not. My brother and I just stuck a bunch of that stuff on his ramcharger...and since that will see more wear and tear then my cuda i will wait to see how his lasts.

ShelbyDogg · « **Reply #124 on:** August 02, 2008 - 01:16:27 AM »

Quote from: Travis72 on August 01, 2008 - 08:22:14 PM

Yeah I use the same basic method as shelbydogg except I use a heat gun instead of a propane torch.
Travis
72 Cuda

Oops, I used to use a propane torch and now use a heat gun too. I bought one from Harbor Freight last year for $9.99 and it works great. For the hard spots, I use a wire wheel that's shaped like a cup on an angle grinder.

mrbill426 · « **Reply #125 on:** August 02, 2008 - 09:38:14 AM »

If they really do work, a heat gun sounds a lot safer. Are there any over the counter undercoatings that spray on leaving the same (or near) "bumpy" texture as tha factory used?

wally426ci · « **Reply #126 on:** August 02, 2008 - 09:50:01 AM »

Travis, looking great! I bet your car is faster than that GN even w/o the motor in it

What are you using to apply filler? i make a couple passes to a paint stick with some 150 and then i use that to spread my filler, it gets it pretty dang straight

leithal · « **Reply #127 on:** August 02, 2008 - 09:57:57 AM »

I also used the cheapo heat gun from Harbor Freight. It worked great! As mentioned there will be stuborn spots or low spots that will require a chemical stripper but 80% will come of with some heat and scraping. After I sprayed on 2 coats of an eastwood rust encapusulator I sprayed 3 coats of a product called Second Skin Audio. It gave a "bumpy" looking texture and seems to be holding up great. I did this on the entire undercarriage inside and out. It really reduced the noise level inside the car.

Travis72 · « **Reply #128 on:** August 03, 2008 - 02:24:20 PM »

I'm still undecided on what to do on the outside of the floorboards. On the inside I'm going to epoxy prime and Second Skin audio thermal spray. My main concern is heat actually. I can remember driving the car when it was 110 out and having to constantly shift my feet due to the heat coming through the floorboards. So I'm going to put a lot of thermal insulation on the floorboard footwells.

On the outside, my original thought was to paint and clear coat because I think that looks awesome. However, my car is going to be driven hard, so I'm worried that it won't hold up. So I have been considering epoxy primer and then perhaps the U-pol Raptor bedliner. They make the Raptor in a tintable version, however I haven't seen anyone who's done that and I'm not sure if I can match the lime green (actually it doesn't even have to be exact). Does anyone have any links to someone that's tinted it? Otherwise I might just do the black Raptor. It looks like the Raptor can be sprayed fairly smooth, because I would actually like it as smooth as possible. As much time as I've spent scraping that nasty factory undercoating off, I don't want to do that again.

On the body filler, I just use the typical plastic spreaders. Wally, can you describe your process a little more? You use a paint stick to apply it to the car?

Travis
72 Cuda

Chlngrcrzy · « **Reply #129 on:** August 03, 2008 - 03:29:26 PM »

Travis, i have tried 2 different products on truck beds out at the farm. The most expensive one i bought through a auto paint store, cost was $225. for a 1.5 gallon kit. Sprayed very well(with a good gun), but it was a little soft for a while and wasn't as smooth as i wanted. I have been trying different products at the farm untill i find the one i want to use on the underside of my car. The second one i bought at schucks, it was Duplicolor. $45 a gallon. This stuff sprayed real easy( I thinned it, it was really lumpy in the can) and set up hard. I may have thinned it too much, but it laid down smooth and hard. I also had severeal pickups sprayed with Linex's product. If i was going to do it myself i will probablu sue the cheap duplicolor stuff. But i am leaning towards having the Linex guy do the underside of my car. I like his product better.

wally426ci · « **Reply #130 on:** August 04, 2008 - 10:30:03 AM »

Sure thing, basically Id get the filler on the car with a plastic spreader, then I would take the paint stik and start beyond the low point (straight metal) and glide it over the filler. Keep going to you get to the next straight point. Of course, this works best on dents smaller than you stick

and it helps to get most of the dent out before you apply filler as well. It certainly worked out for me, If I get some time, I will show a little video short example... and Im no body genius, I just experimented.

MoparCar · « **Reply #131 on:** August 04, 2008 - 11:26:58 PM »

Travis,
Car is looking great!! It'll be a blast for sure when it's done. I thing there should be a Mopar pro touring gathering or at least a support group for all of us "cut im up and make them handle and be fast types"

....... Did you decide on the transmission?

Looks great!
Wes

Travis72 · « **Reply #132 on:** August 10, 2008 - 09:06:17 PM »

Went and picked up the car from the chassis shop yesterday and when I got home it figures that it was pouring rain by my house.

So it's not a lot of fun getting all that bare metal wet, but I managed to dry everything off with only a little flash rusting. Other then that the car came out great.

Everything is welded up and I had them cut down the 8 3/4" housing as well, that way I don't have to run wheels with 8" of backspacing and can actually have some dish to the rims. They welded all the Air Ride bracing up and welded up the shock crossmember as well, so everything should be solid with the rear suspension. The new Goodmark frame rail went in smooth except my floorboards had to be beaten back in shape. They only used the front part of the Goodmark rail. I also had them copy the way that conv340 (Twisted Fish) moved in his lower bars, so there's plenty of tire clearance now.

Anyway, here's the pics. I mounted the stock seat just for reference for the harness bar.

Travis
72 Cuda

p.s. Wes, I'm sure I'll end up going with a TKO-600 and probably from Classic Mopar 5-speed.

Travis72 · « **Reply #133 on:** August 10, 2008 - 09:09:14 PM »

I went ahead and stuck the 335/30/18 under there just to see how it fits and looks. I'll have plenty of tire clearance with the mini tub so that won't be an issue. I'm not sure if I'll end up with 17's or 18's though.

Travis
72 Cuda

thedodgeboys · « **Reply #134 on:** August 10, 2008 - 09:15:59 PM »

Looks great Travis

Is it me or are the coil overs pretty low

Author Topic: 72 Cuda g-machine - 2016 update (Read 221080 times)

ShelbyDogg

Re: 72 Cuda g-machine build up (lots of pictures)

leithal

Re: 72 Cuda g-machine build up (lots of pictures)

Travis72

Re: 72 Cuda g-machine build up (lots of pictures)

grimmey71

Re: 72 Cuda g-machine build up (lots of pictures)

ShelbyDogg

Re: 72 Cuda g-machine build up (lots of pictures)

mrbill426

Re: 72 Cuda g-machine build up (lots of pictures)

wally426ci

Re: 72 Cuda g-machine build up (lots of pictures)

leithal

Re: 72 Cuda g-machine build up (lots of pictures)

Travis72

Re: 72 Cuda g-machine build up (lots of pictures)

Chlngrcrzy

Re: 72 Cuda g-machine build up (lots of pictures)

wally426ci

Re: 72 Cuda g-machine build up (lots of pictures)

MoparCar

Re: 72 Cuda g-machine build up (lots of pictures)

Travis72

Re: 72 Cuda g-machine build up (lots of pictures)

Travis72

Re: 72 Cuda g-machine build up (lots of pictures)

thedodgeboys

Re: 72 Cuda g-machine build up (lots of pictures)