My 74 'Cuda

[74 340 4speed]

The car looks and sounds cool.Did you check Your firewall harness plugs Probably some good corrosion there.terry

No, I didn't.  Thats something that I need to do.  Thanks!

[farmboy70]

On a 74 I believe it is attached to the main lug on the starter relay beside the battery, probably blue.
Dave

[Bullitt-]

I had a Charger with this issue once & I know that others here have found similar problems with the steering column harness connections. The wires & teminals can look ok but the terminals get pushed a little too far in the plug & don't connect.

[74 340 4speed]

On a 74 I believe it is attached to the main lug on the starter relay beside the battery, probably blue.
Dave

Is this it? I circled it in paint with a yellow line, but its kind of  hard to see.  I hope that's it.

[Bullitt-]

Is this it? I circled it in paint with a yellow line, but its kind of  hard to see.  I hope that's it.

I don't think so.. mine is on the back side of the relay , not going to the battery, I'll get a pic for you in a few min.

[74 340 4speed]

Thanks for the help bullitt99.

[Bullitt-]

Here you go.... I'm afraid you may not have a fuseable link installed...DANGER

[farmboy70]

Is that red wire going to the bulk head connecter? If it is follow it and see if the connections is bad. That should be where the link was. That needs to be replaced with a fusable link. It looks like you have no overload protection and could have a fire.
Dave

[Bullitt-]

You can get a replacement fuseable link at NAPA, most parts houses you buy in bulk & maker your own
Item#: BEL784690

Price: $3.99

[74 340 4speed]

I bought a fusable link from Advance Auto Parts tonight.  I will try it tomorrow afternoon.  There is no fusable link in the wire on my car that looks like the one you have pictured.  I will trace this wire for a short, install the fusable link, then go from there.  The car ran fine for about 10 minutes on monday, but now it won't do anything.

[74 340 4speed]

Okay, I traced the wire that went from the starter relay to the fuse block, and it looked good.  So, I removed this part of the wiring from the fuse box, put some di-electric grease on it and put it back.  Next, I put a new terminal end on the wire going to the relay.  I got in the car and turned the key to the on position and saw that the charge/discharge gauge moved.  I then tried to start the car.  It turned over a few times and cranked right up.    However, it did not run as smooth as it did before.  I could not get it to idle and it was trying to spit back through the carb.  My question is, what should be the timing on a motor like this?  340, huge solid lift cam, 11-13:1 compression(not sure on this, motor was built before I was born), aluminum dual plane intake, 750 holley, electronic ignition.  I think that it may be timing related.  Where can I get a timing tab, and where should it go on the timing cover?  My engine does not have one on it.   I will pull the plugs the next chance I get and make sure that they aren't fouled out.  If they are, then that is an easy fix. 

[Bullitt-]

You will find that the timing marks are on the timing chain cover drivers side on post '69? motors. 

What is your fuel source? I would be suspect of clogged filter & or trash in the carb.

Are you now getting 12+Volts to the ballast resistor? Local guru did a diagnosis on his OE harness & was loosing a volt or so at each connection net effect was about 9volts to the ignition.

[74 340 4speed]

bullitt99:

My motor has the water pump exiting to the driver's side of the car.  The inlet and outlet of the radiator are both on the driver's side of the car.  This means I have a pre-69 engine, right?  The radiator i'm using is a 22" core unit that was originally in a super bee or road runner.
My fuel system is as follows:
New fuel tank, cleaned sending unit, new sock on sending unit, new fuel line, new fuel pump, new clear see-through fuel filter, new dual line for carb, and a new 750 holley, mechanical choke. 
I have not rechecked the voltage at the ballast yet.  I think that the plugs may be fouled because I know a good bit of gas was pumped through the engine trying to get it to crank over this week. 

[Bullitt-]

I'm not sure of the exact year that the change was made but the eary 340s were set up like yours with the pump exit on drivers side which put the timing marks on the passenger side but I believe it is also possible to install an older style pump on the newer motors in which case the marks will be obsured. Timing tape may be the answer
http://www.wyckoffchryslerparts.com/dadetitap4.html

[74 340 4speed]

Thanks a bunch!  I'll look into that for sure.  Timing tape would be pretty easy to install too.