Build up ???????

[70challengerrt]

I found the block (70 HP 440) but it has no crank. This is a total build up from scratch. Has anyone use the rotating assembly from 440source? Is it balance from them or do I have to rebalance it? Is it worth the extra$$$ for the stroker kit to 500 cubes? the stroker kit is $1200.00 which I thought wasn't to bad. I am planning on using my 452 heads with the bowls blended. Edelbrock performer intake or maybe a B1 intake. Unsure about cam but I have power brakes so I need vaccum at idle. The car is a 4spd with a 833od tranny, Dana rearend with 3.54 gears. I want something that make oviusly as much power as possible with still having good vacuum for brakes, good streetablity, with a max RPM of about 6500. The car is a weekend driver not a race car but still don't want rice burners wizzing by. I almost forgot I need cam suggestions. Any suggetions on this build up would be great.
Thanks
Todd

[Chryco Psycho]

Go with the 440 source parts it is the same price to do a 500 or 512 kit & both will fit with stock oiling , you should be able to use the stock heads with mid 9:1 compression using a steel shim head gasket
 as fo rintake the Eddy perfromer is the worst intake available & the b1 is the other end of the scale
 I can help with the cam , do you want solid or hyd , ? Engle has some awesome grinds like the K 58 or K 60 which should work perfectly or I have a number of differnet solid grinds as well 

[70challengerrt]

I was thinking hydrolic just because I used solids on my chevy motors and it seemed like I was adjusting them every month. If you dont have to adjust them as much with the rocker rail design on mopars I would go with solids. I forgot to mention that I would like to keep my stock hp exhaust manifolds because of header sealing problems in the past and I don't want to spend the $800 on TTI at this point in time.

[bnorth]

Chryco, what is it about the Eddie Perf intake that makes it the worst one available ?

Ben

[Dave-R]

I am helping a friend build a 440 right now.

We are using a crank, H beam rods, flatop forged pistons ,rings and bearing kit from Hughes Engines. These are fully ballanced for simple installation. I don't think 440 Source sell theirs ballanced? Not sure about that. Otherwise a good company to deal with.

My friend wants to use Edelbrock heads so the block is going to get machined to zero deack hight for use with composite head gaskets.

With stock exhaust manifolds it is pointless going for a high rpm - high stall speed type of engine. So stick with a dual plane manifold like the taller Edelbrock Performer RPM with a good rpm range with good low rpm driveability.

Get a cam with lots of lift for the duration. This is easy to compare. That means the valve is opening faster and is the best way to get more power at all rpms.

[KellysCuda aircard]

I havent tried them yet, but my next engine will have 440 source crank in it, 512 like CP said, and if not solid roller then for sure hydrolic roller, there is no comparing  a roller against hydraulic. Then I would still use eddy heads over steel ones (mopar action mag proved them to be better out of the box than a ported and polished set of 452), I would seriously think about coating the pistons thus allowing you to run 11;1 or so compression on pump gas with out detonation.....and then...nitro...muhahahaha

[Oldschool]

[....and then...nitro...muhahahaha
[/quote]




Kelly, you are a sick man....        (good kinda sick tho!)               

[70challengerrt]

I am not familiar with coated pistons. How does the coating help you run higher compression? How long does the coating last? If I use a roller cam is there any other mods to the motor besides pushrod length? I was told that edelbrock heads would not help me that much using hp manifolds, they said I would have to use headers for them to help enough to be worth the price. What do you think?

[70challengerrt]

Good news? I just got a call from a friend who said if I wanted he had a steel crankshaft out of a 70 that I could have for free. For my build is this a good way to go to save money? Than it would be easier to find the money for a roller cam.

[KellysCuda aircard]

With coated pistons and aluminum heads you can run higher compression on pump gas, like 11 to 1 without probs. I,m not sure how long it lasts, I thought forever but I would check with who does the coating. I know CP hates eddy heads, but for 800 bucks each they are tough to beat. I am actually looking forward to what the victor heads will do after Neil gets the bugs worked out. I havent coated my current set of pistons but my next motor will have them.

[Chryco Psycho]

I have not had an issue with solid cams in Mopars , I will get back to this & give you some recommendations , remind me

 Ben - the Eddy Performer intake for the 440 is proven to lose HP over the stock iron intake / M1 alum version , virtually Any intake is better

[bnorth]

Thanks Chryco, I am just getting my block back from machine work and am starting to put my list of parts together and was considering the a Performer. Had one on my 340 and it worked great but now you got me thinking and I need to do some more research.


thanks
Ben

[Chryco Psycho]

Holley Street Dom , it sits low , costs less than the performer & makes super power everywhere part # 300-14

[moper]

If you are now staying with a 440 based displacement, there are a bunch of cams. If you plan to run 3.54s and have power brakes, you do limit yourself a little. But, I would run KB236 hyper pistons for design, weight and cost vs return (I know...CP HATES them ...lol). They are flat tops. The block will need to be square decked to get them to "0" deck. Then run the Fel Pro head gaskets, and your 452s with a good performance valve job. It should end up in the 9.8:1 area. For a cam, the Comp XS268S would be my first choice. As far as a hydraulic grind, the XE274H is a very nice grind too. I think the XE268H would be almost stock sounding, but make a bit more torq. 

[Chryco Psycho]

a roller cam can be very expensive to run on a street engine , the Cam lifters & springs will be $1000 , & you need a bronze gear drive for the oil / dist which wil wear out every 2 oil changes , I would go to a strong solid lifter grind & get close to street roller profile & performance with  less cost & more reliability
 A  few cams I use often are the UltraDyne Tf 62 grind , 270 ad duration , 243@.050, 110* CL with .548 lift , using 1.6 rockers this will get you .586 lift , it idle like a stock cam but pulls HARD to 6200 rpm , the other grind is the TF60 278 * ad duration , 251@.050 , 108* CL & .570 lift with 1.5 rockers , .608 with 1.6 rockers  , the powerband only rises slightly with this cam with a 2200 - 6500 powerband
 the first cam with a 112* cl made 125 more gross HP in a 440+6 engine that appears stock using  Cast exhaust manifolds etc [520hp  vs 395 stock rating ]