Author Topic: Big block redline RPM's  (Read 1494 times)

Offline Stacked440

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Big block redline RPM's
« on: January 07, 2007 - 08:59:17 PM »
I need to buy a redline gaugeworks tach that replaces the clock in the non-rallye dash.  BUT, im still not sure where to shift with a 440?  Anyone know whats yellow and or redline for a 440?
-Kyle-
1971 Challenger R/T clone 440/5-spd
1973 Duster - 5.7L Hemi swap project




Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Big block redline RPM's
« Reply #1 on: January 08, 2007 - 12:30:40 AM »
what is done to the engine ?
what cam & valve springs ?

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Offline v8440

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Re: Big block redline RPM's
« Reply #2 on: January 08, 2007 - 06:42:19 AM »
I'd say no stock rod and piston 440 has any business going much past 6000.  Not that they won't take it, but that you're REALLY stressing the rods with those heavy pistons at that kind of engine speed.  Remember, reciprocating stresses (pistons) go up with the SQUARE of rpm, not directly with it.  So, a doubling in engine speed quadruples reciprocating stresses. 

Offline Dave-R

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Re: Big block redline RPM's
« Reply #3 on: January 08, 2007 - 08:01:26 AM »
It is not so much the rods that fail but the rod bolts.

If the crank and all bearings are OK and held together with good quality bolts or studs there is no reason not to take it up to 6500rpm.

However it depends on the cam, springs and head flow. It is pointless reving that high if you are well past peak HP rpm.

And even if it had a cam and matching valve springs I would worry about the stock valves because unless they are one piece stainless they could come apart at high rpms.

I use the stock 6-pack rods in my engine with only very slightly lighter-than-stock KB pistons and take it up to 6500 regular. But I have good bolts and bearings in there.

Offline v8440

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Re: Big block redline RPM's
« Reply #4 on: January 08, 2007 - 08:07:10 AM »
Well, I was assuming that he had a stock bottom end-including bolts.

Offline Dave-R

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Re: Big block redline RPM's
« Reply #5 on: January 08, 2007 - 08:14:41 AM »
Well, I was assuming that he had a stock bottom end-including bolts.

Yeah.  :iagree: I realised what you were saying but I thought it best to mention the importance of the bolts etc in all this.

Offline v8440

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Re: Big block redline RPM's
« Reply #6 on: January 08, 2007 - 08:17:28 AM »
You're absolutely right about the bolts being what usually fails first.  I'm about to put together a fairly mild 360 that won't be revved past about 5500 rpm.  I'll be using the stock rods, but arp bolts will be in them.

Offline moper

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Re: Big block redline RPM's
« Reply #7 on: January 08, 2007 - 10:13:07 AM »
Stacked, yellow doesnt exist except on Mopar tachs...lol. redline is not a shift point. It's a point of destruction...Or perhaps a better way to put it, the last point BEFORE expected failure. In a stock 440, shift points above about 4700 are useless except for engine inertia. In an engine whose design was changed by a cam swap, exh upgrades, or igition stuff, then the best shift point has been moved. I wil lsay the vast majority of owners shift higher than the package likes. In most cases, the drivers "short shift" and end up going faster. The real answer to this is to know your car. Take it to the track and experiment.

Offline v8440

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Re: Big block redline RPM's
« Reply #8 on: January 08, 2007 - 10:15:13 AM »
The real answer to this is to know your car. Take it to the track and experiment.


Best advice yet.

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Big block redline RPM's
« Reply #9 on: January 08, 2007 - 01:53:35 PM »
it really depends what is done to the engine , valve spring generally will float & limit topend Before failure
 my 440 had 6 pack rods & Speed Pro 6 pack pistons & 2250 gram bob weight but the machining & balancing was perfect & it was shifted at 7200 rpm for 9 seasons with no issues , never even hurt a brg
 I agree with above though knowing what is in the engine , respecting the limits of the engine & testing is the best way

Challenger - You`ll wish You Hadn`t