Quick head stud question

[wart1de]

Howdy,

I'm looking at ARP head studs for my Eddy heads and on Summits website they list one set for a standard head for $87 and another for Edelbrock/W2 heads for $136. I thought Edelbrock heads were the same as standard heads? Has Summit made an error here?

Cheers!

 

[Chryco Psycho]

Why do you want head studs ? in vitually any application you will have to lift the head straight up 8" or more & will have to pull the engine to get enough room to do it

[Jacksboys]

I know on the small block each of the Eddy heads require two of the long bolts instead of the single bolt required on the iron head.

I am not sure on the big block.

[wart1de]

Why do you want head studs ? in vitually any application you will have to lift the head straight up 8" or more & will have to pull the engine to get enough room to do it

I thought there may have be just enough room on a SB to get the heads off with the engine in the car... but if theres not, your right, i'll be sticking to bolts.  I figured the head gaskets maybe less likely to blow with the studs.

They also look cool    

[Chryco Psycho]

they probably have a different length stud ofr a smaller head to fit inside a restricted hole

[wart1de]

I suppose the next question will be, can anyone verify if you can remove the heads from a SB with head studs while the engine in the car?

[Chryco Psycho]

power brakes or no ?

[moper]

It depends. Studs are meant to be threaded in by hand when installed. They do not get torqued until the nut is on. In many cases with mopars, the studs can be removed by hand or by "double nutting" them to remove them, then the head comes off normal. I dont think you can get the head over the studs with power brakes, and some cars they may interfere with stuff protruding from the firewall too. I rarely use head studs for those reasons. ARPO head bolts are almost as good. Also, some header flanges will not fit without cutting the excess stud down. I know this is the case on big blocks. I think small blocks are ok. I mention it as a just-in-case deal.

[wart1de]

Yup, she's got power brakes.. oh, decisions, decisions.. 

[quagmire]

I am running edelbrock heads and ARP studs on my 408 stroker.  ARP studs have an allen key machined into the top of them so you can unscrew them out of the block with ease.  The passenger side comes off fine without pulling the studs, I don't know about the drivers side.  Worst case, you have to remove the studs to yank the head, which is cake now that you dont have to use pliers or vice grips to wrench them out. 

[wart1de]

Hey thats good info. I'll go for the studs then.

 

[Killer_Mopar]

I guess the studs can be a pain in the ass if you have to take the heads off while the engine is in the car and they are probably overkill for a street engine, but they look cool and that is all that matters

[Plum6Pak]

I guess the studs can be a pain in the ass if you have to take the heads off while the engine is in the car and they are probably overkill for a street engine, but they look cool and that is all that matters

Actually the benefit is for frequent head removal. Since the threads in the block aren't continually used, only the nut end, the head can be removed over and over again and if the threads get tweaked, replace the stud and you are on your way. If you do that with bolts, eventually it may wear the threads in the block and cause problems. Much easier to replace a stud than re machine the block if you do have a problem. Street use wouldn't require them unless you just like it to look cool. You could probably get away with pulling regular bolts many times but some of these drag racers that pull down their engines more frequently than they change their underwear get benefits from using studs. Other than that, I'd go for it if you like it just remember it's a pain to remove the head if needed, especially a big block.