Author Topic: convert again  (Read 3941 times)

Offline PlumCrazy

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 349
Re: convert again
« Reply #15 on: February 08, 2007 - 12:28:50 AM »
Sure they did but fuel was way different 35 years ago.




Offline chevyconvert

  • HvacMan
  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1693
  • Member since November 04, 2005
Re: convert again
« Reply #16 on: February 08, 2007 - 12:29:00 PM »
So is the thought that my gas has eveporated out of the bowl and I have to crank the starter until the manual fuel pump fills the bowl again?

Is there an additive that will help today's gas?
Eric
'70 Hemi Orange RT/SE 440 Six Pack Pistol-Grip 4 speed
Bay Area California

Offline MEK-Dangerfield

  • C-C.com Expert
  • ********
  • Posts: 20946
  • I don't get NO respect! Member since 1/25/2002
Re: convert again
« Reply #17 on: February 08, 2007 - 01:00:59 PM »
Unless your car runs real hot, I can't see this happening under normal circumstances. If all the fuel boiled out of the carb, it wouldn't start right up later. It sounds like it mught just boil for a while, then cool down. Maybe a carb spacer would help you. It would keep the carb up off the hot manifold.


  Mike

Mike

1970 Challenger - SOLD
2016 SXT+.  1 of 524 SXT+'s in Plumb-crazy for 2016.

Offline chevyconvert

  • HvacMan
  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1693
  • Member since November 04, 2005
Re: convert again
« Reply #18 on: February 09, 2007 - 09:37:13 PM »
The spacers would be nice ,but with the six-pack the air cleaner already touches the hood insulation :dunno:

and your right MEK...it starts right up later when cold. Just tap the gas to set the choke and she fires right up so it can't be that the bowl is dry.

Someone mentioned the coil getting hot.
The coil does look old. Could the coil cause hot start problems?

I was thinking of doing the pertronix ignition upgrades (coil/dist.kit/p.wires).
Would that help and what do ya'll think of the product?
Eric
'70 Hemi Orange RT/SE 440 Six Pack Pistol-Grip 4 speed
Bay Area California

Offline EVIL72

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1244
Re: convert again
« Reply #19 on: February 10, 2007 - 01:39:36 AM »
 I used to have a Mustang II that would start and run fine until it got warmed up then it would start running rougher and rougher until it died, I'd let it cool down and it would start right back up again, it ended up being the coil which was mounted on the intake.
ROB
1972 Dodge Challenger 340ci
1970 Pro Street Duster (Under Construction)

Offline chevyconvert

  • HvacMan
  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1693
  • Member since November 04, 2005
Re: convert again
« Reply #20 on: February 11, 2007 - 09:12:43 PM »


Someone mentioned the coil getting hot.
The coil does look old. Could the coil cause hot start problems?

I was thinking of doing the pertronix ignition upgrades (coil/dist.kit/p.wires).
Would that help and what do ya'll think of the product?

Thanks Rob. Mine does mount right on the intake so it's roasting hot.
Do you have any experience with the pertronix products ?
Eric
'70 Hemi Orange RT/SE 440 Six Pack Pistol-Grip 4 speed
Bay Area California

Offline EVIL72

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1244
Re: convert again
« Reply #21 on: February 11, 2007 - 09:57:14 PM »
 I had nothing but stalling problems with one of there coils, but It could of just been a fluke. Others have said that there stuff works great.  :dunno:
ROB
1972 Dodge Challenger 340ci
1970 Pro Street Duster (Under Construction)

Offline Chryco Psycho

  • Administrator
  • C-C.com Guru
  • *****
  • Posts: 36620
  • 70 Challenger R/T SE 70 tube Chassis Cuda now sold
Re: convert again
« Reply #22 on: February 12, 2007 - 12:29:42 PM »
I have had at least 4 cars that would randomly not start using pertronics systems

Challenger - You`ll wish You Hadn`t

Offline ShelbyDogg

  • Sr. Resident
  • ******
  • Posts: 5007
Re: convert again
« Reply #23 on: February 18, 2007 - 10:16:10 AM »
ChevyConvert,

When the car doesn't start, Pull the coil wire right away and check for spark.  I bet that it's there.
If it is, stop thinking about the ignition system and stay on the fuel system.     After the car sits hot, and wont start, pull the float bowl fuel level sight screws and see if any of the bowls are dry.   One of your metering plates is probably warped and is leaking into the intake, then flooding the engine.

If you pump the gas once and get a good pump shot, the engine should start if it wasn't already flooded.
Easy problem if you know what to look for.  Don't start throwing money at it such as a whole ignition swap out just to find out that it didn't help.  Have a real car guy look at it first.

Rob
Rob

3 E-bodies, Megasquirt-1v3.0, Edelbrock Pro-Flo-1, Holley C950, FAST EZ-EFI; say no to carbs...yes to throttle bodies

My Pace Car restoration thread:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=44869.0


Offline jeryst

  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 2032
Re: convert again
« Reply #24 on: February 18, 2007 - 09:43:36 PM »
Does it crank slower when it's hot?

Offline chevyconvert

  • HvacMan
  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1693
  • Member since November 04, 2005
Re: convert again
« Reply #25 on: February 20, 2007 - 06:46:38 PM »
Does it crank slower when it's hot?
No...

Thanks Shelb....good ideas.
Wasn't planning the ignition upgrade to solve this particular problem...just as a general upgrade that could result in an overall improvement in power/mpg/reliability. You still runnin' points?
Eric
'70 Hemi Orange RT/SE 440 Six Pack Pistol-Grip 4 speed
Bay Area California

Offline ShelbyDogg

  • Sr. Resident
  • ******
  • Posts: 5007
Re: convert again
« Reply #26 on: February 20, 2007 - 09:16:58 PM »
No,No,No.   I don't run points. If I get anything with points, the first thing that I put in is an electronic ignition using the factory parts. Did you know that you can convert a points distributor housing to electronic pickup?  Look under the rotor and take out the little oily pad in the center hole. You'll see a clip in there that holds the point cam in. Once you remove the clip, the whole cam top can be pulled off after taking off the point plate. An electronic plate and reluctor assembly can now be used from a small block or B distro robbed for parts.   The hole that the points wire came through can now be opened up for the pickup wires by cutting off the top of the hole.   

It would be easier to buy the whole new conversion kit from Mancini though.

I still think you're flooded.  I had a 6-pack on my 440 for many years. There was also a TSB on warped 6-pack metering plates.

Rob
Rob

3 E-bodies, Megasquirt-1v3.0, Edelbrock Pro-Flo-1, Holley C950, FAST EZ-EFI; say no to carbs...yes to throttle bodies

My Pace Car restoration thread:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=44869.0


Offline Stacked440

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1026
Re: convert again
« Reply #27 on: February 24, 2007 - 08:01:36 PM »
What carb are you running?  I used to have that problem on my Scout II.  It would fire maybe 3 cylinders when you hit the key then just crank crank crank crank away.  Put a new carb on it, It can be 40 degrees out and I just set the choke, hit the key within a second its up and running smooth :thumbsup:
-Kyle-
1971 Challenger R/T clone 440/5-spd
1973 Duster - 5.7L Hemi swap project

Offline chevyconvert

  • HvacMan
  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1693
  • Member since November 04, 2005
Re: convert again
« Reply #28 on: February 25, 2007 - 11:40:55 AM »
just had the 3 carbs professionally rebuilt by ACE fuel...car runs great.
Eric
'70 Hemi Orange RT/SE 440 Six Pack Pistol-Grip 4 speed
Bay Area California

Offline EVIL72

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1244
Re: convert again
« Reply #29 on: February 25, 2007 - 11:57:34 AM »
 So was the problem in the carbs?
ROB
1972 Dodge Challenger 340ci
1970 Pro Street Duster (Under Construction)