440 source

[70RAGTOPR/T]

Here are my questions.  I plan to buy a 383 stroker kit from 440source, they offer a final balanced kit for $1,597.  My first question, should I purchase the final balance or have a machine shop do the job.  Second, which is better
I-beam or H-beam rods. Third, what type of pistons should I purchase. Last , should I have the crank drilled for a 4 speed.  Thanks for your help 

Walt

[Chryco Psycho]

Brandon charges less to balance than they do locally so the kit I just ordered was a balanced kit
 I would order a forged piston with a dish under the valve & but flat opposite the spark plug to create quench if possible . I or H Beams are basically the smae strength & no one will see them in the engine so go with what Brandon has available , usually H . I would always have the crank drilled for a 4 spd , it is far easier now than later , I belive all Brandons cranks  are drilled though

[72hemi]

  That is exactly what I would do.

[moper]

I'm not a fan of Brandon's balancing, but that's just a personal decision, and I have access to a shop that does things the way I want. There is detail in the "42.5" post I made on why. I like the H beams myself. All the 440 source cranks are drilled and reamed for the pilot bushing. Pistons depend almost entirely on what heads you plan to run. With any iron head and open chamber, I'd go flat tops. WIth any closed chamber or aluminum, I like a tight quench and the 17cc dished pistons.

[70RAGTOPR/T]

Brandon charges less to balance than they do locally so the kit I just ordered was a balanced kit
I would order a forged piston with a dish under the valve & but flat opposite the spark plug to create quench if possible . I or H Beams are basically the smae strength & no one will see them in the engine so go with what Brandon has available , usually H . I would always have the crank drilled for a 4 spd , it is far easier now than later , I belive all Brandons cranks  are drilled though

Can someone explain the bolded sentence.   As for the heads, I'm not sure.  They were on a block from a 67 383, but they could be the original 70' r/t heads.  I need to look at them this weekend and let you know.

Walt

[moper]

If you go to 440soure.com, and scroll down, the piston they show in the box marked "pistons" is waht he is referring to I think. It is a dished piston, but the dish is meant to be under the valves and small chambers of modern heads. A sopposed to a stock style dish which just has an even step over the entire dome surface. In a flat top design, the area on the top of the piston (top meaning the upper 1/3 of the dome surface when the piston is in the block and oriented as it would be in the running engine) is what comes up tight to the flat part of a closed chamber head. The dished version does the same deal, but has the sunken area directly under the valve heads. That's what you want...

[70RAGTOPR/T]

Ok..... I'm doing 440source in March.  Now the next question.  Should I go with the stroker kit 383>>496 or 383>>438?  Since this car is only for the street I feel that the 438 is the better one but I do want something that will take your breath away and maybe have to change one's pants.  On the other hand they both cost the same @ $1199.    Now for the next question, should I do these additonal items or is it over kill. 

Thanks,
Walt

Kit options:
Rings and Bearings package deal:
Add Clevite 77's top of the line performance chamfered rod bearings and full groove mains. (MS876P and CB743HN)
AND Childs & Albert or Total Seal ductile iron Plasma-Moly File Fit rings. All 3 items (rod bearings, main bearings and ring set) are just: $248!!

Additional Kit options:
Add Clevite's "TRI ARMOR" moly graphite coating to the above rod bearings: $64
Upgrade to Childs & Albert Zero Gap "ZGS" or Total Seal Ductile Iron Premium gapless Rings (add to above): $175
Upgrade to I beam style rods: $50
Upgrade to Platinum Series Dished Pistons: $NO CHARGE

[Chryco Psycho]

I tend to agree that the rod ratio & life of the engine will be better with the 438 kit
 I would get the best piston available & the zero gap rings are a good option for a long life engine

[70RAGTOPR/T]

Thanks Chryco

[Moparal]

I assume he does balance the engine with the rings and rod bearings weighed in too?

[moper]

I assume he does balance the engine with the rings and rod bearings weighed in too?

Yes, he includes those weights, and some for oil.

As far as rings go, gapless top rigns do nothing more than waste power, and they area PITA to fit...lol. Stay with a std ring package, std tension oil, top moly, file-to-fit. I prefer C&A to total seal. But the ZGS rings are not needed. Neither is the "graphite coated" bearings. If this isn intended to be a cruiser, and rarely if ever going above 5500, go with the biggest you can. If you think it will be spun higher, or you plan to race it a bit, go 438.

[70RAGTOPR/T]

Mopar .... It's going to be a cruiser.  It'll only come out when it's nice outside.  It's mainly for my wife and I to drive around in.  I won't drive it more than 300 miles one way.  Take it to the beach , Ocean City, MD, every now and then.  And, everynow and then smoke a kid in a honda or 'tang. Does this help.

Walt

[moper]

I would go larger than. Just me tho. I've drivena a couple 432s, and they are snappy, but they run similar to a 340. The tighter you wind 'em, the faster they go...lol. So I would put the longest stroke you can in it, and keep the revs down. It wont last as long, but where I am, 15000 miles is 5 years on an average car. I wouldnt expect to get more than about 30-40K miles out of it tops.