Big Block 400 Stroker Build!!

[PlumCraZRT]

Oh and Chryco... what kinda deal you think you could get me on the headers?  What condition are they in?  I already have a 383 installed... when I put the stroker in everything should line up the same.   

[PlumCraZRT]

How do roller rockers compare to non-roller adjustable type.  I am trying to compare between comp's pro-magnum (comp's basic steel roller rocker for chrysler) and crane's ductile steel adjustable (non-roller) rocker.  It appears the comp rockers should be strong enough for my .525 lift (going with Comp's XE275HL cam) but I am not sure which are supposed to last longer, roller or non roller rockers.  I think I could save $100 goin with Crane, even after getting the special pushrods.  Also do the Crane ductile steel rockers work with factory spacers etc?  I haven't seen anything indicating the use of special spacers or anything.

Anyone know about the reliability of the steel roller rockers?  How long do the bearings last on em?  Strength?  Chryco said Crane's ductile steel rockers are indestructible, but again what's the life expectancy on them?  They last forever or what?  I am actually completely clueless on this (and I rarely think that about myself when it comes to car stuff) cause I have always run with stamped steel rockers and magazines don't usually concern themselves with strength/longetivity of components.  Either the magazine breaks it, mentions it, and replaces it or they dont.  Help?!

[Chryco Psycho]

I ran the Ductile Cranes at 7000+ rpm for 9 seasons racing & street driving my Duster with no problems with the Mopar .590 solid cam & dual valve springs

[PlumCraZRT]

I ran the Ductile Cranes at 7000+ rpm for 9 seasons racing & street driving my Duster with no problems with the Mopar .590 solid cam & dual valve springs

So you're not sure if they will be strong enough for my .525 lift?

Sarcasm...

[Chryco Psycho]

they might live 

[PlumCraZRT]

My dad found a set of Crane Gold Series roller rockers for Mopar stage 6 aluminum heads for sale on Craigslist.  I was thinking I could maybe put them on my Edelbrock heads, and the guy is selling em for the price of dirt, but I've heard Gold Series Rockers are supposed to be fall apart all the time right?  Or do we think that they would be fine for my .525" lift and 295 lbs open load?  Are there any power gains to be made from a roller setup?  Or is it on the order of 5hp and that sorta thing.  I don't need to take a reliability hit for an extra 5 hp.

[bb71challenger]

My dad found a set of Crane Gold Series roller rockers for Mopar stage 6 aluminum heads for sale on Craigslist.  I was thinking I could maybe put them on my Edelbrock heads, and the guy is selling em for the price of dirt, but I've heard Gold Series Rockers are supposed to be fall apart all the time right?  Or do we think that they would be fine for my .525" lift and 295 lbs open load?  Are there any power gains to be made from a roller setup?  Or is it on the order of 5hp and that sorta thing.  I don't need to take a reliability hit for an extra 5 hp.

I was told the crane gold rockers hold up just fine. Was told they are iffy with huge spring rates but for a moderate lift they were solid. I will not even be over .5 lift and that is what I ended up getting. I heard the main thing is to make sure you get them on the right side with the oiling holes lined up right or they will burn up quick. I got mine in the 1.6 ratio which a mopar engine guy told me were actually 1.65 ratio. I ended up putting a set in and had the single bolt cam bolt loosen up.... yeah not a pretty sight. The rockers held up just fine but I did have to buy a new set of valves 

[Chryco Psycho]

I generally do not use alum rocker when buying new parts because they Can fail ,the problem is alum will not flex , it just cracks but they should be fine in most applications & if you are getting a good deal on them it is worth the risk. There is virtually no HP gain using roller rockers , the big gain is on high lift cams the action of the rocker will tend to push the valve outwards and prematurely wear the guides , a roller rocker cannot push the valve outwards at all , the motion is only vertical

[PlumCraZRT]

Picked up my Crane gold series roller rockers from the guy yesterday.  I got worried when I got home and looked around online realizing that Crane makes another set for B1/BS, stage I-VI heads...  Thought mine might not fit a stock config.  I test fit them tho on the heads from the previous engine and they appear to fit just fine.  I'm not sure what hte difference is between the stage VI rockers and the rockers for stock heads, but these appear to sit with the valve lined up with the roller and the roller sitting far enough on the valve to cause no problems.  What all is different about the stage VI rocker config?  Is it just the offset on the rockers?  Anyway, walked away $200 poorer (he was asking $175), but he gave me the hold down bolts, the steel hold-downs/spacers, the steel shims, the spring spacers, and the two (chromed) rocker shafts.  I felt like I was ripping him off so I gave him an extra $25.  I agree Chryco, the iron rockers are probably stronger, but I think for the price and the relatively mild combo I'm running they should be fine and the risk is well worth the price.

Again, what is different about B1/BS & Stage VI rockers vs. the stock rocker assembly?

[moper]

The amounts of offset on the intake rockers is the difference.

In terms of "stamped" or "steel/aluminum rollers", I will take rollers every time. The stamped steel will flex. at small spring rates (say 350lbs open) you can watch the rockers flex. They last, but they lose lift on every flex, and they are heavy compared to aluminum rollers. Plus, available ratios are better, and the ratios are more exact. A 1.5 satamped steel rocker is really somewhere between 1.5 and 1.4:1 True roller rockers, and the better race versions, are available to 1.7:1. Which can be very advantageous when selecting a cam. Now, rollers are not created equal either. Very simply, anything under $400 new is probably trash, and no beter than stamped steel. Scat, Proform, Scorpion, all fall into that last category. If you run them, they are a waste of money IMO and may be hurting you. Crane is the bargain one.

[PlumCraZRT]

 

So I haven't posted to this in quite sometime.  I've been grabbing parts here and there as funds permit.  So far I have the stroker kit, alum water pump, heads, intake, and a whole list of other things.  There are still some things I need to grab including a roller cam. 

I have chosen a Comp Cams SK21-227-4.  My question for everyone/anyone is:  What solutions are available for a thrust bearing/washer or a thrust button to take the walk out of the cam?   

It looks like fords (yea I don't like it either  ) have a nice solution with a retainer and thrust washer that bolt to the block.   Do I need to get a welded sheet metal timing cover and then use a thrust button?  Somebody, somewhere has to  have something that works better.   

[Chryco Psycho]

Sorry I missed the header deal , there are a couple of sets of Hooker headers for $150 OBO used needing blasting & painting or coating

[PlumCraZRT]

Sorry I missed the header deal , there are a couple of sets of Hooker headers for $150 OBO used needing blasting & painting or coating

Thanks Chryco, but I'm not gonna worry about headers for right now.  I see now why my 'a little feedback' thing is misleading.  BTW if I do go the header route, I will end up with either the Schumachers or TTIs just from a heat/fitment/burning up everything in my engine bay standpoint. 

What I'm curious about is retaining roller cams.  I only see thrust buttons available.  Is that my only choice?  If so, do I need a welded-sheet timing cover?

Thanks in advance,
Evan

[Chryco Psycho]

I would weld in a re-inforcement in the cover for the button , that is the only way I know of the hold the cam in place

[moper]

Yes, a button is the only way. The best method is belt or gear drive where you can set the cam's endplay with shims. but a button and good timing chain will work too.