Author Topic: 6 pack carbs set up (Read 5819 times)

Robb · « **on:** May 16, 2007 - 10:30:16 AM »

Greetings.

Putting the Six Pack carb setup here pretty soon and had a few questions for folks with experience on them.

The carbs are brandspank'in new. It seems like previous Holley carbs I have had to deal with, needed significant re-jetting. Do the 6 pack carbs need this as well, or are they closer to being bolt-on and run ?

Also, the directions that came with the linkage were photocopies of photocopies of photocopies (of a photocopy) hence the pictures and illustrations are un-usable. anyone got a cleap pic or a page out of the body manual ?

Thanks as always

Chryco Psycho · « **Reply #1 on:** May 16, 2007 - 03:48:11 PM »

typically they will respond to jetting , the center carb need to come up 2-3 sizes the end carbs cannot be jetted without Promax jet plates but will respond as well

moper · « **Reply #2 on:** May 17, 2007 - 06:08:43 AM »

You need to be a lot more specific. What are they going on exactly? give all specs you know of.

ksierens · « **Reply #3 on:** May 17, 2007 - 06:40:38 AM »

The body manual has about 20 pages with regards to the 6 pack. Is there something specifically that you need?

Robb · « **Reply #4 on:** May 17, 2007 - 09:24:32 AM »

CP- thanks, Ill investigate the promax options

KS_

Pics of the way that the carb and throttle linkage hook up is what I need a pic of most. Driver and passenger side of the carbs basically.

Moper:

Six Pack is going on my 440 in the Challenger,

replacing a StreetDominator and a 800cfm Holley spreadbore DP. Keisler 5 speed trans, 3.23 gears, 25.5" tall tires. Having some 915 heads redone right now with 2.14 intake, 1.81 exhst, gasket matched and first 250$ of porting, hardened seats etc. Cam is an Engle K54/56split duration with 112* HP manifolds, dual 832 springs. and 2.5" h-pipe TTI exhaust. With new heads I am anticipating around 9.0-1 compression, static. Car currently passes emissions. MSD6al with rev control at 5000. FBO distributor. Car is a CA emissions car from the factory.

16000 miles on an original Cast crank 440 block, pump gas of course with low compression

Also swapping in a sanden A/C compressor to replace the old big A/C and to fit with the 6 pack.

no drag racing at a track. Just a street car. Now with change in AZ law, I dont have to pass emissions testing anymore, but I do get annoyed with a car that runs rich.

might rebuild the short block in a couple years at which time I would likely deck the block and change the pistons to get me up to around 9.7 compression, static. but the top end Im doing today would likely just re-bolt on.

Thanks Everyone!

ksierens · « **Reply #5 on:** May 17, 2007 - 10:06:53 AM »

Ok, I can scan a few pages for you tonight then.

Robb · « **Reply #6 on:** May 17, 2007 - 11:27:14 AM »

http://www.mopar1.us/6barreltips.html

I found this.

There are some additional links to an indepth article about mid page from a '92 Chrysler Power mag article that had some neat information too.

ksierens · « **Reply #7 on:** May 17, 2007 - 05:34:27 PM »

I scanned this for you out of my body manual.

moper · « **Reply #8 on:** May 18, 2007 - 10:28:24 AM »

I had a similar engine, but ran a Crane split patter on 112� centerline, and 9:1 or so compression. As I recall, I ran 74 jets in the center, and stock metering plates in the outboards, with purple springs in the pods, and a 31 squirtor and factory acc pump cam. The power valve had to be a 4.5 tho. Car went 12.40s with 3.91s for 2 years on street radial Dunlops. I drove it every day, winters, snow, whatever.

Robb · « **Reply #9 on:** May 18, 2007 - 02:38:49 PM »

MANY thanks to all,

I did order the promax plates. Ill set up the similar to what moper has described and Ill go from there.

again, many many thank yous.

Robb

Chryco Psycho · « **Reply #10 on:** May 18, 2007 - 06:13:23 PM »

the factory jet for the center carb is 62 so I would stay in the 64-66 range unless it looks lean , Moper May have been compensating for the lean outboard carbs using a 74 jet in the center carb or possibly was actually at 64 not 74
12 steps higher than stock is too far IMO

moper · « **Reply #11 on:** May 20, 2007 - 07:34:03 PM »

Nope..no compensating.. That's what it wanted...lol. I drove it year round, and never rejetted in the summer. The plugs were always a little darker than tan, except #8, which was always a tad leaner then the others. I ran 91 octane unleaded, and the engine was a stock long block '78 440 with about 40K miles on it. Cam was Crane H302-2, 1 3/4 headers, iron 6bbl and stock new carbs, a recurved distributor w/vaccum advance, 12� initial, 36� total, all in by 3K. 3.91 gears, 2300 10" convertor. Best ET was 12.4 @ 106, spinning in first for about 40' on the Dunlops. The only problem I had was a tendancy for the front carb's needle to get crud in it about once a month. I never could get that totally solved...lol. I will admit it does sound like a lot...perhaps there was some internal mess in the carb. I wouldnt doubt that. But it flat out worked great. No bogs, no hesitations, nothing.

i even got it stuck in the snow twice...lol.

Robb · « **Reply #12 on:** May 21, 2007 - 07:41:33 AM »

Ill follow up in a few weeks with my results (or other problems. haha) . Thanks again !

PlumCrazy · « **Reply #13 on:** May 22, 2007 - 03:00:50 PM »

Quote from: Robb on May 16, 2007 - 10:30:16 AM

Greetings.

Putting the Six Pack carb setup here pretty soon and had a few questions for folks with experience on them.

The carbs are brandspank'in new. It seems like previous Holley carbs I have had to deal with, needed significant re-jetting. Do the 6 pack carbs need this as well, or are they closer to being bolt-on and run ?

Also, the directions that came with the linkage were photocopies of photocopies of photocopies (of a photocopy) hence the pictures and illustrations are un-usable. anyone got a cleap pic or a page out of the body manual ?

Thanks as always

Robb · « **Reply #14 on:** June 30, 2007 - 01:12:08 PM »

got the SIX PACK, 915 heads, Sanden A/C and all the oil leaks squared away.

I swapped the white acc pump cam for a red one on the center carb, and put it on the number 2 position. both seem to work well though.

I down-jetted 2 numbers in all the carbs (using promax plates) so far so good. The outer carbs seem to open about a 1/2 second too slow but I can live with that for now.

I used a closed off intake pan, but drilled a 1/8" hole on one end for a little bit of the air flow to make it to the choke-coil but without having full flow through the intake and it seems to work well.

Runs better now than it did with the 4bbl holley DP and street dominator intake. The increased compression and bigger valves Im sure play a part, but man when those outer carbs open up, you can really feel the difference.

Thanks Everyone for all the tips and advice. I declare this project a success !

Author Topic: 6 pack carbs set up (Read 5819 times)

Robb

6 pack carbs set up

Chryco Psycho

Re: 6 pack carbs set up

moper

Re: 6 pack carbs set up

ksierens

Re: 6 pack carbs set up

Robb

Re: 6 pack carbs set up

ksierens

Re: 6 pack carbs set up

Robb

Re: 6 pack carbs set up

ksierens

Re: 6 pack carbs set up

moper

Re: 6 pack carbs set up

Robb

Re: 6 pack carbs set up

Chryco Psycho

Re: 6 pack carbs set up

moper

Re: 6 pack carbs set up

Robb

Re: 6 pack carbs set up

PlumCrazy

Re: 6 pack carbs set up

Robb

Re: 6 pack carbs set up