Drove my 'Cuda for the first time today!(6/17/07 Videos Added)

[74 340 4speed]

Well, after working on the car since this past september, I finally got to take my 'Cuda back out on the road today.  This was the first time the car has been on the road in the past 27 years.  I was amazed at how well the car drove and peformed considering how long it sat.  The radical 340, the pistol grip 4 speed, and the 4.10 geared dana 60 had me  .  When I was going down the road, I noticed that it would pop out of 4th gear if I gave it some throttle then let off.  So, I brought it back to the house and adjusted the shift linkage.  After doing so, I took it back out on the road again.  I fixed the problem with the shift linkage and I decided to get down on it some.  This thing just hauls and goes!!!!  However, right as i pulled back into the driveway the car died on me.  I only put about 4 gallons of gas in it before I left and I thought I had ran out of gas.  I checked, and I still had plenty, so I looked all over the wiring.  My dad suggested replacing the balast resistor on the firewall, so I did.  The car fired right up. As I was moving the car to put it back under the shelter it died again and wouldn't crank.  I felt the balast resistor and it was really hot.  What could cause these things to heat up that fast?  The car ran for no longer than one minute before it died the second time.  I have a new ignition module, voltage regulator, distributor, cap, rotor button, accel 8.8 wires, msd blaster coil, new starter, alternator, starter relay, battery and a starter lock cylinder/switch assembly. The wiring harness on the car is original and looks like it could be replaced, but I have been cranking and running the car for the past 3 months with no problem.  Thats why it stumped me today???  I have on some occassions let the car idle longer than I drove it on the road today.  What could be my problem?  Is something shorting out to cause the balast to burn out?

[Stacked440]

Usually they say carry 1 or 2 extra resistors in your glovebox   Terribly un-reliable i guess.  But thats cool that you got to take your car out!  I did the same a week ago with my project, really an awesome experience to see that it pays off

[4Cruizn]

Congratulations!   Definitely an exciting day!!     

[conv340]

Man I know how you feel nothing better then getting to drive your car for the first time (again) It will be a while before I'll be driving my 'Cuda

What could cause these things to heat up that fast?  The car ran for no longer than one minute before it died the second time.  I have a new ignition module, voltage regulator, distributor, cap, rotor button, accel 8.8 wires, msd blaster coil,

From MSD
"The following Blaster Coils can be used in stock applications, but do not include a ballast resistor. When you are using an MSD Ignition Control, the Ignition is responsible for delivering the voltage to the coil so a ballast is not necessary."
The blaster coil is a lower resistance then a stock coil. So it puts a load on your balast. As long as you have a electronic ignition you can eliminate it. MSD sells a heavy duty unit for points that would work if you wanted to keep it looking original.
Rereading your post If you have a stock Chrysler ignition you may want the .8 ohm MSD resister anyway just to make sure your module is ok. I dont think the coil would hurt it but...

[74 340 4speed]

Thank you conv340.  From my understanding, your post says that If I have the msd control module, I can eliminate a ballast resistor completely?  Currently, I have a stock type 5 pin ignition module on my car with a factory electronic ignition distributor.  Do you think I would be safe to eliminate the resistor completely, with the setup I have now?
Is this the msd resistor you are referring to? msd pn 8214? 

I understand this one is for points, but my car has the four pin resistor on it. 

How would I wire this one(MSD) in, if I decided to go this route?

[conv340]

It's been a while since I've seen the stock 72 dual ballast. So I had to jog the rust loose  But would bypass one half of the resister The one that goes to the coil. the other side feeds you module. I don't know what it does on the orange box ignition its not used. If you have an orange box or swapped ( it has the same plug) you could eliminate the other side. I'll post pics of both schematics. I think I would leave the resister there and just add a jumper on the the coil feed. What I know for sure is the Blaster coil pulls more amps and will cook the factory resistor. I ran a Blaster with the orange box and no resister for a long time no problems. Then swapped to a MSD box with no module.
I'll send you the other pic it wont let me post it to big.
oh yes that is the resistor msd uses but you would have to add it to your other one. so you would have two 

[74 340 4speed]

Thanks for the help again. :   I'm running this module,

I also got the picture via email.  That helps me out alot.  I'll research it some more and if I have anymore questions, I'll know where to post up. 

[74 340 4speed]

Well, today I replaced my old tattered engine harness with one from Evans Wiring harnesses.  I must say that it was very easy and everything was plug and play.  I had one question about it so I gave Bill Evans a call and he answered it right away.   Anyone needing a wiring harness should definately look this guy up.  http://evanswiring.tripod.com  I called year one about a harness out of curiosity and they said, yea, we carry that harness.  They acted like they had it in stock, so I said it will ship out tomorrow, right?  He said no, it will be 10-12 weeks.    I just hung up the phone.  For peace of mind, I removed the MSD coil and put a stock replacement back on the car.  After double checking all the wiring, I got in and turned the key.  It fired right up with no problem at all and ran flawlessly.  The problems the car was having are now gone.  I plan to drive it again sunday and put a few miles on it this time. 

[RusTy/SE]

I went through similar issues last year on the 73 Challenger i had at the time. I got lucky and Y1 did have the engine harness in stock. Same result though, plug and play and electrical glitches gone. Glad it worked out for you

Russ

[74 340 4speed]

Its great to be able to drive the car now only having to worry about having enough gas, and how expensive it is.    After driving it twice today, I believe that my problems are fixed.  Now, if it got 30 mpg with the 4.10 gear, I would be all set. 

[74 340 4speed]

Hey guys, I finally got around to making some driveby videos of my 'Cuda.  Its a work in progress, but the drivetrain, I feel, is in tip top shape.  The exhaust I have is hooker competition headers, with 3" dual exhaust dumped at the rear using flowmaster super 40 mufflers.  The car has a built 340, 4 speed, and a 4.10 gear.  The first clip is a driveby of me gradually going through the rpms 1st, 2nd and 3rd, and the second is another drive by, winding it up a little in 3rd and shifting to 4th.  Enjoy.
Click here to watch cudasuper40driveby
Click here to watch cudasuper40-3-4shift-driveby-

[71bigblock]

Man, I like that second one!   

[Husker Cuda]

Sounds sweet Andy!  It will be awhile before I will experience that feeling again.  Mine went to the soda blaster yesterday.  Good news is the car is rock solid and should be easy to put back into paint.

Mike

[Bullitt-]

AHHHH, the smell of MOPARS in the morning.....thanks for the videos.  

[74 340 4speed]

Mike, I saw a few pictures of your car in another thread while the soda blasting work was being done.  Is the blasting completely finished now?  Your car looked very solid in those pictures.  I wish I could say the same about mine,  .  I got the door locks working in it this weekend, so at least I can lock the car up now. Bullitt99, your welcome man.  I just wish other members would post up more movies of their cars.  Threads with pictures are cool but the ones with videos are awesome.