A few things I can add here.
bb71- there is no way you can get a performance stock engine done for $2000. I'm not trying to sound harsh, but reality is it can't be done, even with you re-using original tins (valve covers, oil pan, timing cover, etc) and stock parts. the 440 Source parts are good value. They should not be confused with higher end (and higher priced) components. Brandon has been very successful in opening up a market for mid level priced performance parts. The value is there in terms of what you get for what you sepnd. However, there are certain realities involved with an engine rebuild. And some extra stuff that goes into a performance engine of a displacement that the factory never offered. It has limitations that impose themselves when you start going bigger. My advice would be to figure out what you want out of the car, then look at your budget, then decide what to do. 440 Source has a nice package for a B block to bring it up to 470. That would be my choice. But, the heads you'll need will need some work. At minimum a complete performance overhaul. So that by itself runs $1000 with parts. Also, the kits, as you option up for some things, the prices go up. I haven't had an order that didnt top $1800 after shipping. So be aware..That's what it costs. Machine work that must be done is straightforward stuff, but there are a couple things you could do to make things that much better. I would think a figure of $5500 would be very do-able for a 470 with iron heads, but that's just me.
If you aren't used to seeing the difference in parts, there is a large range of quality. Not that they arent good, or worth the effort. But as I've posted before, there are things you should look into before you assemble all your money and expect things to go perfect. If you're like me, you can't easily afford to do things twice. So make sure it's right before you start. The cranks have large radii which makes them very strong. This can interfere with bearings and clearances. The methods used to polish the journals tend to add a small amount of taper to the journals around the oil holes. So you want to make sure that taper doesnt extend all the way accross the journal. This has gotten better as time went by. But you should check every journal for size and taper. Plastigage cannot detect the taper. So paying a shop or buying the tools and learning how to use them is a definate. The connecting rods are .008 shorter than factory. If you go for 0 deck, factor that in. The rods typically need the pin ends honed. That's normal for any rod. But the inbstructions to use emery cloth by hand shoud be tossed. It costs me 4100 to have the rods cycled and size verified and the small ends pin honed. Emery sheds abrasives and those will imbed in the bushings, in addition, oil does not form a wedge well on an irregular surface. If you can't wet sand paint flat by hand, you can't sand the bushing surface anywhere near flat...lol. On the balancing. He has the best equipment, however by his own site, he uses the stated weights for the rods. They are not ever the same (matched) that well. A price of going with the less expensive..Eagle, Scat, and others have the same issues in thier less expensive lines. Of 4 kits' I've assembled, all have neeeded the rod weights equalized. He does not do this from what I've heard. If the weights are off, the balance job is off. Period. He bends way past backwards to answer questions, and address issues with the products. I know that first hand. He does a great job, and is making huge inroads in the process for all of us. Just be sure you're prepared to go the distance and get it complete, "right", and (close to
) budget and it will exceed your expectations.
