Author Topic: Cooling issues  (Read 5572 times)

Offline Stacked440

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Cooling issues
« on: June 17, 2007 - 09:49:32 PM »
Info on car is : 440 Mag with a 3-core BB radiator with a new alum high volume water pump from 440 source and a new spring in the lower radiator hose.  The darn thing still runs hot on days like today at upper 80's low 90's.  Just below the "H" on the gauge.  someone tell me...what am I doing wrong? :pullinghair:  Only thing I can think of now is new alum radiator and electric fans. :dunno:
-Kyle-
1971 Challenger R/T clone 440/5-spd
1973 Duster - 5.7L Hemi swap project




Offline 74 340 4speed

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Re: Cooling issues
« Reply #1 on: June 17, 2007 - 10:02:07 PM »
What temperature thermostat are you using, and more importantly, what kind is it?  I have found out that putting the expensive thermostats in my car saves me many :pullinghair: down the road.  I use the Mr. Gasket 160* stats in my rides and they usually hover around 170-175*.  On days that are 100* or over, the cars usually max out at 190*.  If you don't have one at all, and its wide open, the radiator never gets a chance to cool the coolant down before it goes back into the motor.  How long does it take your car to get to H on the gauge? 
Andy
1967 Camaro SS: 406 sbc 505 hp/506 ft lbs|4 speed|Posi|3.73s
1969 C/10  350|Turbo 350
1969 Dodge D300 318|4 speed|Dana|4.88s
1972Nova: 350|Turbo 350
1974 'Cuda: 340|4 speed|Dana 60|4.10s|posi
1999 Camaro SS: Auto|Longtube Headers|True Duals|TT2s
2013 Challenger R/T: 6 speed|Hurst with pistol grip|mopar performance exhaust|super track pak

Offline cudabob496

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Re: Cooling issues
« Reply #2 on: June 17, 2007 - 10:15:15 PM »
I have a 72 service manual for my Cuda. It lists possible causes of overheating: blocked radiator air passages, incorrect timing, low engine oil, incorrect valve timing, bad temp gauge, restricted overflow tube, faulty rad cap, frozen heat control valve, dragging brakes, excessive engine idle, frozen coolant, faulty fan drive, faulty temp sending unit, faulty vacuum bypass valve, overfilling, insufficient corrosion inhibiter, blown head gasket, broken or shifted lower hose spring, low coolant level, collapsed rad hose, fan belt lose, glazed, or oily, air leak through bottom hose, bad thermostat, water pump impeller broken or lose, restricted rad water passages or restricted engine water jacket.
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Cooling issues
« Reply #3 on: June 17, 2007 - 11:58:42 PM »
is the guage sender good ?

Challenger - You`ll wish You Hadn`t

Offline ted

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Re: Cooling issues
« Reply #4 on: June 18, 2007 - 11:03:25 AM »
exactly, unless its boiling over its not over heating.
74 cuda, 70 challenger r/t

Offline cudabob496

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Re: Cooling issues
« Reply #5 on: June 18, 2007 - 01:25:12 PM »
Are you saying it's okay for a preformance engine to run at 220 to 230, as long as it is not boiling over!
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000

Offline ntstlgl1970

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Re: Cooling issues
« Reply #6 on: June 18, 2007 - 02:07:57 PM »
I think what others are trying to say is that the temperature needs to be verfied by something other than the (presumably) stock 30+ year old gauge and maybe sender before changing a bunch of parts.

When does it run this hot? All the time? Just idle? Only on the freeway?
What thermostat are you using, a Stant (sorta chrome looking) or Mr. Gasket (Robertshaw - brass with a "cup" on the bottom) style?
Can you verify the coolant temp with a known good mechanical gauge or infra red temp gun?
Does the car start pinging or detonating when it gets this hot?
« Last Edit: June 18, 2007 - 02:10:37 PM by ntstlgl1970 »
70 Cuda, 7.0L Gen-III Hemi, Viper T56 w/9310 gearset, 3.91's, Megasquirt MS3x v3.57, Innovate wideband, Firm Feel upper arms, torsion bars, springs and strut rods, QA1 DA shocks. I did everything on this car except the fancy paint stuff and I drive it...and I can't seem to stop messing with it....

Offline matt63

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Re: Cooling issues
« Reply #7 on: June 18, 2007 - 03:21:39 PM »
A proper electric or mechanical temp gauge would be a good start.  To me, thermostats and rad caps don't make a difference if your cooling system doesn't have the capacity to remove enough heat from the system.  You need a good fan, rad and shroud.  I'm just dealing with a similar problem and it looks to be solved.  I threw away my 5 blade fan and went to a 7 blade.  It runs about an inch from the 22" 4 core rad.  I also added a shroud. My "plan B" was to go to an aluminum Flexalite dual fan unit for $800.

Matt in Edmonton

'68 Valiant
'73 Cuda 340 4 speed (408) SOLD

Offline cudabob496

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Re: Cooling issues
« Reply #8 on: June 18, 2007 - 05:29:02 PM »
On my 496 Cuda I put in a $250 Howe aluminum radiator, and it rarely gets above 180 to 190. I only need to turn on the 14 inch electric fan 5% of the time. Don't even need a fan shroud like I used to have. I do have a vented hood which allows air to move more freely through the radiator, and I use a high flow thermostat. Also, I agree, a good autoguage mechanical temp guage is around $30 and screws right into the water pump housing. A simple mod.
« Last Edit: June 18, 2007 - 05:31:47 PM by cudabob496 »
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000

Offline Stacked440

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Re: Cooling issues
« Reply #9 on: June 18, 2007 - 07:42:19 PM »
It has a 160 Degree Thermostat in it, and the entire motor is new, nothing that I know of could be in the water passages as the block was boiled out and the heads are new.  If its 70 degrees out and I just cruise at 55 it runs just above halfway on the gauge.  But if it gets above 85 or so, it gets to hot to be comfortable to drive.  The gauge could be bad but it reads good half the time?Thing is just downright funky.
-Kyle-
1971 Challenger R/T clone 440/5-spd
1973 Duster - 5.7L Hemi swap project

Offline black71

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Re: Cooling issues
« Reply #10 on: June 18, 2007 - 08:24:42 PM »
what does the lower hose spring do?

Offline matt63

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Re: Cooling issues
« Reply #11 on: June 18, 2007 - 08:49:19 PM »
It stops the hose from collapsing under low suction pressure when the pump is running at high speeds. 
Matt in Edmonton

'68 Valiant
'73 Cuda 340 4 speed (408) SOLD

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Cooling issues
« Reply #12 on: June 19, 2007 - 01:51:30 AM »
Generally an engine will run cooler with a 180 or 195 * T stat , the reason is once the engine gets to 160 the thermostat is reduced to being a flow restrictor , with a 180 or higher the thermostat should close & allow time for the water in the rad to cool more before re-entering the engine , check the timing , make sure you are at about 14* at idle & 36 at 3000 rpm this alone can cause overheating
 what size rad do you have in the car ?

Challenger - You`ll wish You Hadn`t

Offline matt63

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Re: Cooling issues
« Reply #13 on: June 19, 2007 - 07:59:54 AM »
... check the timing , make sure you are at about 14* at idle & 36 at 3000 rpm this alone can cause overheating
 what size rad do you have in the car ?
Does advancing the timing cause the engine to run cooler or hotter?  Mine runs nice at 18-20 degrees initial!
Matt in Edmonton

'68 Valiant
'73 Cuda 340 4 speed (408) SOLD

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Cooling issues
« Reply #14 on: June 19, 2007 - 09:49:18 AM »
Advancing causes the engine to run cooler

Challenger - You`ll wish You Hadn`t