Cooling issues

[MyMopar]

hmmm...whats the difference in an AC water pump and one without AC?

For the BB, I'm not completely sure.  I think it has to do with the impellor.  I do know that they are different part numbers and the A/C unit flows more. 

[MEK-Dangerfield]

For the BB, I'm not completely sure.  I think it has to do with the impellor.  I do know that they are different part numbers and the A/C unit flows more. 

I think one has more impellors, or paddles, so to speak. 


  Mike

[IMNCARN82]

I'm tired of changing thermostats.   Without a dought,A hotter thermo.=hotter temps.  160* for me. 

[miketyler]

Was told on Moparts that the 6blade impeller is for AC cars and the 8blade is for non AC cars. AC cars have a higher pulley ratio to spin the fan faster and evidently can get by with the 6blade model. I didnt know that but I suppose it makes sense   

[RusTy/SE]

My longtime Mopar Parts guy (Brewbaker Dodge in Montgomery) informed me that his Mopar parts book only lists one pump these days - with 8 impeller blades He does remember a time when two were listed.

Russ

[Chryco Psycho]

8 blades or 6 on the impellor , 8 eats more power

[miketyler]

yup, I ordered the 16 blade MiraKool unit from FlowKooler last week. I received the 6-blade however.     Called them and they are sending the 16 blade.

The FK unit is pretty much identical to stock but has the disc installed and looks like the gasket area has been freshly machine surfaced. You wont find this quality of unit off the shelf at O'Reillys. It looks pretty easy to modify your existing WP, it has a thin galvanized steel disk that has been pop riveted to the impeller. Truthfully, it kind've looks cheap. I asked the owner how the pop rivets hold up being submerged and in a shear condition and he claims they haven't had any failures yet. They look like 1/8" dia rivets. Pop rivets seem like a cheap way to do this. Seems better to drill larger holes and tack weld the plate to the impeller hub. Maybe balance issues though? 
 
Will report back my findings, its killing me to not at least bolt this 6blade on now and see if it improves my cooling condition.   

[ted]

it only regulates the min temp not the max.

I'm tired of changing thermostats.   Without a dought,A hotter thermo.=hotter temps.  160* for me. 

[matt63]

it only regulates the min temp not the max.

The thermostat can determine the max. operating temp. if the cooling system has the capacity to cool right down to the thermostat set temperature.  If not, then the operating temp. is determined by the cooling system capacity ie if the cooling system can only cool to 210F then you will run at 210F regardless of the thermostat.

[miketyler]

I got the Flow Kooler today, or actually got the second one today. Ck out the pics, they are nice products. I am hoping the MiraKool saves me the grief of another custom cut pulley. The 6blade on the left is their 1700A for SB Mopar with AC pulleys. The one on the right is their Mirakool and has a 16 blade impeller that is brass and steel. It would work on either model SB engine. I hope the extra blades and the anti-cav disc will make up for the flow I have lost from the smaller crank pulley.

     

[IMNCARN82]

One of the first things I had to do was replace the WP. I went with an 8 blade ? higher volume.Looked stock,just more paddles.Didn't see much change in temps. But I've never gone over 190* ona digital guage, or half on the stock guage.  Keep us posted.   I intend to run an aluminum rad. eventually.

[miketyler]

I got to run the FlowKooler today and wish I had better news. I was hoping it would be night-and-day difference but no cigar. 

OAT here today was around 90*. Engine temps in stop and go traffic came right on up to 210*. However, when I did get on the open straightaway it looked like the OEM guage dropped half a needle thickness. The second gauge showed right at 210* and even started to creep up on the other side of the 210 mark on the return. Tstat was a 180 that had a #10 flow hole drilled in the edge. I tested it as well and it began to open at 184* 

I plan to try my fixed fan and shroud and also replace the tstat with a balanced unit before I have the smaller W/P pulley cut.     

[bb71challenger]

I had serious problems with my cars temp creeping up in around town driving and when I installed the proper shroud it was like night and day. I could not believe how much difference a simple shroud made in keeping it cool.

[miketyler]

yeah, at this point, I probably should go back to stock fan and shroud for my testing. Once I get my temps under control, then I could possibly revisit electric cooling.

....assuming I get my temps under control 

[miketyler]

I put the OEM fan back on today. Temps driving round the neighborhood came right on up to 210* as before. However, when I got it out on the straightaway the temperature did drop considerably. The OEM needle went from horizontal to about ~1/3 sweep from the bottom, and my electric dropped from 210 down to around 190-195*.

I have read everywhere that if the engine cools down at freeway speeds you dont have enough airflow to maintain proper temps. Also that the fan doesn't do much at speeds above 40mph. Well given my testing here I would say the fan still has some value at higher RPMs. Yesterday the temp drop on the same run was marginal and today it was much more visible (today is hotter as well.)

With the OEM fan and shroud am unsure what I can do to increase airflow except as a Moparts member suggested, build a dam that will scoop up more air and plug any openings in the core support. I feel like I now have achieved almost max airflow and can remove that from the equation. Probably need to move on to the smaller w/p pulley to restore the factory 1:1.1 or 1:1.2 crank to w/p ratio.