2nd grear is driving me to drink

[gichy]

OK here is the problem
Just got the cuda on the raod last week.
Its a 340 with a 833OD, I have a re-man set of shift rods/levels.
I can shift into all gears well the car is parked but when I am driving 2nd gear either grinds or will not even go in at all. It's like it hit a wall
Down shifting into 2nd I have to slow the car to around 10m/hr, it does not grind when I am down shifting it just does not go into gear???

I have changed the 1-2  lever/tab it is now sitting straight up/down when it is in newtral. I use the lever from my 3 speed. Just had to bend the rods slightly.

WHAT AM I MISSING?? HELP

[matt63]

I would use an alignment tool to set all of your swivels up properly.  The rod goes through all of the shifter levers and I believe is 1/8".  This is done while in neutral.  With the correct levers and rods everything should work once this is done.  I bought some Chinese rods that were junk.  One rod had been broken while they were bending it and they brazed it together! 
The other possibility is that your syncro ring is gone.  Are you using std gear oil or synthetic?  I've heard that synthetics cause problems. 

[gichy]

The rods have been adjusted with a 3/16" pin, everything line up
I was useing Gear oil 75/90 synthetic, the trany guys told me to change it to ATF.
It seems to shift a little better now, but still some ting is wrong.

I bought buy rods off ebay, there not too bad.
I had to lenghten the 1/2 rod because of the different levers, but as long as everthing lines up this should be OK?

The trany has aslo been rebuilt. I was told they used new syncro's

[matt63]

I've never run ATF - just 80/90 gear oil.  Perhaps someone else can speak on that issue.  I think the idea of lining up the shifter levers only holds true if the shifter levers and the gearbox levers are the correct length.  You should be able to tell by shifting through each gear and then going under the car and trying to move the gearbox shift lever by hand ie try to see if it has moved the lever all the way to it's position 

[matt63]

One more thing.... if the clutch doesn't fully disengage (adjusted incorrectly) it may drag causing shift problems.

[gichy]

Does anyone know what the correct lenght should be for the 1/2 level ie. center of the rectangle hole to the center of the round hole?
I guess the longer the level the further the en-gaugement?

I think the clutch is set correctly.  I can move the fork in and out about 1/4" or so, IS THIS RIGHT?

The trany shop told me to change the oil to ATF, seems to help

Thanks

[Chryco Psycho]

the clutch should have approx 1/2-1" of free play at the top of the pedal travel to be set correctly
I use Only gear oil in the 833 trannys , synthetic is too slippery unless you se GM Syncromesh or Redline specifically for std trannys

[Chryco Psycho]

I don`t have a spec for the shift lever handy , but the longer the lever the longer the throw between gears

[gichy]

What would happen if the Syncro grears were worn out?
Would it be hard to shift?

[Carlwalski]

2nd grear is driving me to drink

And this is a problem because? 

If your syncros are shot it will be hard to shift, it makes it easier to go between "gates"?
You could always double clutch like the old days but you'd just be wasting your clutch and it's unnecessary.

[matt63]

If the syncros are gone you will start crunching gears when shifting.  Downshifting will be tricky too.  fI'd start by dumping the ATF and going to gear oil although I'm not sure if there are problems with the mixing of oils.