dana rear problem and question

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Offline cudachuck

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dana rear problem and question
« on: June 30, 2007 - 11:11:23 AM »
i'm looking for a dana rear for my cuda and i've located 2 close to my house. rear #1 is out of a 1989 dodge ram truck with a trac lock posi 410 gears. rear #2 is out of a 1979 ford 350 4x4 with 410 (it is aleady blasted and cleaned up). which one would be a better buy and what would be needed to do to it to make it work??thanks




Offline cudachuck

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Re: dana rear problem and question
« Reply #1 on: June 30, 2007 - 11:20:35 AM »
and i would like to make it look as close to a dana that would have come with the car if ordered that way thanks :bigsmile:

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: dana rear problem and question
« Reply #2 on: June 30, 2007 - 11:11:34 PM »
I guess the Dodge diff would be the better choice , the problem I see is that both are likely Dana 70s not 60s , there usually is a 60 or 70 cast into the centerr section of the diff
 I believe there is a thread on modifing truck danas in the archive section

Challenger - You`ll wish You Hadn`t

Offline 73EStroker

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Re: dana rear problem and question
« Reply #3 on: July 01, 2007 - 10:14:25 AM »
I took a Dana 60 off a 3/4 ton ford 3.73 SG Trac Loc. I used the ends off an old C body 8-3/4 to make the diff the same width and have the same ends as a stock Challenger. I am about to order 30 spline axles from Moser. I wanted to get the inner seals installed as well so that I could use the stock taper wheel bearing and adjuster setup but the guy who did the work did not install them (I failed to tell him). So I am stuck with green bearing setup but that is the same as the old Fords were anyway. You can also buy the ends and the spring hangers from Mopar. This mod cost me CDN$ $29 for the hangers, $85 for the rear (in exc shape because it had a 300/6 pushing it around all it's life), $240 for the machining/welding and will be around $450 for new axles and bearings. Total about $750US.

Take note of what CP says about IDing the diff. Looking from the rear. the bottom right strength web (next to the actual differential) should have "60" cast there.
Barry (Salmon Arm)

Offline GreenFish

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Re: dana rear problem and question
« Reply #4 on: July 09, 2007 - 11:05:28 PM »
Unless you have some sort of spectacular deal on one of these rears I have read and found in the past it is just better to buy a brand new one.

you can call strage or whomever and order exaclty what you want with the gears, axles and everything else for around $2K.

you wont have to have it modified to fit your car, then buy axles anyhow then move the spring perches and everything else that goes along with an old rear made to fit. By the time you are done, you will probably have close to $2K in it anyhow, and not have as nice a rear.

Just my .02
70 cuda, 440, KB pistons, 10.5:1 compression, edlebrock heads,RacerBrown cam, 5-Speed Tremec, Megasquirt EFI

Offline cudachuck

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Re: dana rear problem and question
« Reply #5 on: July 17, 2007 - 09:31:08 PM »
i got it found a dana 60 from a e-body was told it was in a 1970 440 6-pack cuda  :droolingbounce: but don't know for sure for $400  :wow:only problem is i need to put mopar perches back on it .he put chevy ones it in forhis camero but it measures 56.5 from flange to flange  :bananasmi

Offline 360 'CUDA

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Re: dana rear problem and question
« Reply #6 on: July 17, 2007 - 09:41:14 PM »
I think that's the deal of the day!!

Offline ShelbyDogg

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Re: dana rear problem and question
« Reply #7 on: July 18, 2007 - 06:49:12 AM »
I assume that the DANA uses the same measurements.  Chuck, you should move your springs in an inch before you weld your perches on. You can get a 295 or larger in the wheel well if you move them in now.

Body line                YEAR                  Track                  Perches              Notes
A-body,                65-72                   55.6                   43.0              4" lug bolt circle
B-body,                62-70                   59.2                   44.0   
B-body,                71-72                   62.0                   47.3   
B-body statnwagon,71-72                   63.4                   47.3   
C-body,                64-72                   63.4                   47.3   
D-body,                64-72                   63.4                   47.3   
E-body,               70-74                    60.7                   46.0 


Axle Housing and Axle dimensions
The following is a listing of flange to flange widths for various year 8-3/4" housings. This is a measure of the bare housing, with brake backing plates removed, from the outside of the flange across to the outside of the other flange.       
62-63 B-body64 Max Wedge   53-1/4"   ·   
64 B-body except Max Wedge.   55-5/8" (est)   
65 B-body   54-1/2"   
66-67 B-body   54-1/4"   
68-69 B-body   54-15/16"   same as 1970 B-body, 1/32" difference
70 B-body    54-29/32"   same as 1968-69 B-body, 1/32" difference
71-73 B-body   57-47/64"   
71-73 C-body 71-73 B-body  SW   59-1/8"   
66-72 A-body    52-13/64" (70-71) 52-37/64" (72)   

70-74 E-body   56-7/16"   
Rob

3 E-bodies, Megasquirt-1v3.0, Edelbrock Pro-Flo-1, Holley C950, FAST EZ-EFI; say no to carbs...yes to throttle bodies

My Pace Car restoration thread:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=44869.0


Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: dana rear problem and question
« Reply #8 on: July 19, 2007 - 12:01:26 AM »
Make sure you correct the pinion angle with the pinion 4-7* nose down when you weld the perches in place

Challenger - You`ll wish You Hadn`t

Offline GreenFish

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Re: dana rear problem and question
« Reply #9 on: July 26, 2007 - 01:42:59 AM »
i got it found a dana 60 from a e-body was told it was in a 1970 440 6-pack cuda  :droolingbounce: but don't know for sure for $400  :wow:only problem is i need to put mopar perches back on it .he put chevy ones it in forhis camero but it measures 56.5 from flange to flange  :bananasmi

THat is one hell of a deal! :2thumbs: nice find dude!
70 cuda, 440, KB pistons, 10.5:1 compression, edlebrock heads,RacerBrown cam, 5-Speed Tremec, Megasquirt EFI