Like amcmike said, the factory specs were intended for skinny bias ply tires in an era where comfort and ease of driving were more important than driver feel and stability.
Only driving to the show and shine on radials at or below posted speeds with rebuilt stock suspension;
caster 2 positive
camber 0-.25 negative
toe 1/8 in
Like to cruise it regularly and have it feel real sporty at a normal ride height using offset bushings or tubular arms;
caster 4-6 positive
camber .5-1 negative
toe 1/16 in
Road racer in a lowered car with big rate bars and wide tires, wouldn't recommend it for the street;
caster 6-8 positive
camber 1.5-2 negative
toe 0-1/32 out
Before setting specs you MUST have the wheels and tires you intend to use and you MUST set the ride height first. Tell the shop not to change the ride height when you give them specs.
A, B, and E bodies all have pretty linear and predictable negative camber gain through suspension travel. I forget the exact amount of gain per inch, but for a 40 year old design, it is decent. Switching to taller spindles will increase this gain as well. For those who don't know, as a car goes through a corner and the body rolls over, you want the outside tires to gain negative camber as the suspension compresses. This additional "camber gain" allows you to keep more of the tires tread on the surface of the road and maintain traction as opposed to have the tire roll up on its shoulder and compromise its traction.
