Author Topic: Handling problems  (Read 1136 times)

Offline Madmax440

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Handling problems
« on: September 03, 2007 - 09:29:20 PM »
Not happy with the handling of the Challenger at higher speeds nor am I happy needing a football fields length to stop the car. Was considering a rack and pinion, coil over, etc. from Alterkation or Magnum Force, but don't think that I really want to go to those extremes. Think that I am going to simply try replacing steering box, etc. What about the brakes ??? I want to convert over to disc brakes, but what rae the best choices out there ??? I would also like to go with Willwood or Baer.   




Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Handling problems
« Reply #1 on: September 04, 2007 - 01:22:17 AM »
try a wheel aligment & adjust the steering box first , you may also need some new parts , ball joints or tie rods etc
 for wheel alignment max the castor , go 1/2* in at the top of the tire for camber & put in 1/16 toe in , these cars will handle set up right
 for brakes it depends on budget , I use the Cordoba bolt on for cheap or Scarebird , SSBC is good as is Master power , not a fan of Wilwood , lighter & more finicky to install

Challenger - You`ll wish You Hadn`t

Offline ShelbyDogg

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Re: Handling problems
« Reply #2 on: September 05, 2007 - 04:42:58 PM »
Mamax,
I had the same problem with my R/T.
It had 11"x3" drum brakes and 11"x2.5" Drum rears.  I had a scary stopping/fade problem once on the highway in the '80s so I  put stock discs and spindles off of a '72 Chally on it.  All of my stopping problems went away.  That would be the cheapest way, but now all of the new bigger stuff is all available and better. Are you running radials or period correct Bias-ply tires?
Rob

3 E-bodies, Megasquirt-1v3.0, Edelbrock Pro-Flo-1, Holley C950, FAST EZ-EFI; say no to carbs...yes to throttle bodies

My Pace Car restoration thread:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=44869.0


Offline MEK-Dangerfield

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Re: Handling problems
« Reply #3 on: September 05, 2007 - 04:57:54 PM »
Mamax,
I had the same problem with my R/T.
It had 11"x3" drum brakes and 11"x2.5" Drum rears.  I had a scary stopping/fade problem once on the highway in the '80s so I  put stock discs and spindles off of a '72 Chally on it.  All of my stopping problems went away.  That would be the cheapest way, but now all of the new bigger stuff is all available and better. Are you running radials or period correct Bias-ply tires?

My boy here has some sweet after-market wheels on his car, so NO way are they bias-ply.  :grinno: I agree in that adding discs to the front is a cheap upgrade. If you can't get them from a E-Body, mine are from a mid-70's A-Body car. Of course you would need the spindles and calipers from an A-Body too. Even with manual brakes, I have no problem stopping.


  Mike

Mike

1970 Challenger - SOLD
2016 SXT+.  1 of 524 SXT+'s in Plumb-crazy for 2016.

Offline Madmax440

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Re: Handling problems
« Reply #4 on: September 05, 2007 - 11:07:28 PM »
Not as concerened with the cost as doing it complete, don't want to cut any corners. When it is done, I want true disc brakes taking advantage of the modern technology available. Just short of going overboard with something like Alterkation or something. I have allocated like about 1K for this part - Fronts and Backs hopefully. $1,500 adding in the steering/handling problems.    
« Last Edit: September 05, 2007 - 11:09:04 PM by Madmax440 »

Offline HP2

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Re: Handling problems
« Reply #5 on: September 06, 2007 - 07:07:05 AM »
While your replacing the steering box don't forget that you will probably need to rebuild the coupler while your at it. The shoes inside of it do wear from use. The rebuild kit is available at your local Dodge dealer pn 4443436AC.

As far as brake technology, the improvement over most of the stock stuff aren't huge. Although the obvious one is simply just the increase in size that comes from using 17-19 inch wheels. On technology, one improvment is going with 4 or 6 piston calipers. The additional pistons provide more consistent clamping force and feel compared to a single large piston. The performance calipers are now made of aluminum billet instead of cast iron, which doesn't do much for actual braking, but does reduce unspring weight, which is good. The other is newer lightweight hats that allow modular assembly of rotors. These are some what lighter, which means they are less effective as a heat sink, but they also allow replacing just the rotor when they wear instead of replacing the whole hub assembly. There also are brake pad compounds, but these can be bonded to old brakes pretty easily. Carbon metallic, ceramics, and other race type compounds are available for stock mopars.

Rack and pinion have an nice feel in a purpose built application, like AlterK or Magnumforce, but I haven't heard too much positive feedback on a simple rack conversion bolted to the stock K frame. Issues with mounting, clearance, turning radius and poor customer service after the fact seem to be the common complaints.
« Last Edit: September 06, 2007 - 09:01:47 AM by HP2 »