Rust treatment

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    Author Topic: Rust treatment  (Read 3168 times)

    Offline Chlngrcrzy

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    Rust treatment
    « on: September 05, 2007 - 11:11:01 PM »
    What do you think is the better product, Por 15 or Eastwoods rust encapsulator? :dunno:
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    Offline Topcat

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    Re: Rust treatment
    « Reply #1 on: September 05, 2007 - 11:19:17 PM »
    What I have been using is Rust Bullet. I've been happy how it sprays on.
    « Last Edit: September 05, 2007 - 11:44:22 PM by Topcat »
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    Mike, Fremont, CA.

    Offline wjaholic

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    Re: Rust treatment
    « Reply #2 on: September 05, 2007 - 11:30:49 PM »
    I have used POR-15 on alot of things, Jeep, Cuda, and Duster parts. You have to break out a grinder to get the stuff off and even then it has permiated the material. I have only tried a hand full of things from Eastwood and was not impressed with the performace to price ratio.

    Go with POR-15!
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    Offline LAA66

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    Re: Rust treatment
    « Reply #3 on: September 06, 2007 - 08:52:50 AM »
     Topcat, are you spraying it with your gun or is there a rattle can also. What do you thin it with or just straight?

     Thanks,

     Jon
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    Offline 71bigblock

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    Re: Rust treatment
    « Reply #4 on: September 06, 2007 - 09:11:49 AM »
    Do you want rust prevention or do you want to stop rust from spreading?  Two different things, you need two different products.  I have heard a bunch of times that POR 15 on bare metal will flake off, its too smooth.  POR 15 is made for rusty metal, it needs something to adhere to.   :2thumbs:
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    Offline HP2

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    Re: Rust treatment
    « Reply #5 on: September 06, 2007 - 09:21:19 AM »
    For cost to coverage ratio, forget both of these and look at PPG epoxy mastic primers. It is a rust encapsulator, colored primers that are designed to spray directly over rust, bare metal, or coated surfaces. Like POR, once dry they cannot be sanded off and must be ground. Price is around $35 for a gallon.
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    Offline Topcat

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    Re: Rust treatment
    « Reply #6 on: September 06, 2007 - 09:27:33 AM »
    Quote from: LAA66 on September 06, 2007 - 08:52:50 AM
    Topcat, are you spraying it with your gun or is there a rattle can also. What do you thin it with or just straight?

     Thanks,

     Jon

    My spraygun. You don't reduce it. It leaves a light textured finish that you can sand. 2 coats, then sand off rough surface and its ready. Dries hard yet is sandable.
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    Mike, Fremont, CA.

    Offline Chlngrcrzy

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    Re: Rust treatment
    « Reply #7 on: September 06, 2007 - 09:32:16 PM »
    Quote from: HP2 on September 06, 2007 - 09:21:19 AM
    For cost to coverage ratio, forget both of these and look at PPG epoxy mastic primers. It is a rust encapsulator, colored primers that are designed to spray directly over rust, bare metal, or coated surfaces. Like POR, once dry they cannot be sanded off and must be ground. Price is around $35 for a gallon.
    Sounds like this stuff has to be applied very carefully, can you use a regular primer over the top to fill in highs and lows, and is sandable?
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    Offline Chlngrcrzy

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    Re: Rust treatment
    « Reply #8 on: September 06, 2007 - 11:04:49 PM »
    Quote from: Topcat on September 05, 2007 - 11:19:17 PM
    What I have been using is Rust Bullet. I've been happy how it sprays on.
    What kind, and size of spray gun can you use? What do you use to clean up with? After the surface has been media blasted, can you apply rust bullit, or do you have to wipe down with any thing special?
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    Offline Topcat

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    Re: Rust treatment
    « Reply #9 on: September 07, 2007 - 09:49:00 AM »
    I used my old primer gun (HF brand) that I knew if I didn't get it all cleaned out afterwards, it wouldn't be a loss. I had bought another one recently. Use acetone to clean out the gun when finished. Have a good paint gun cleaner kit. Clean ASAP when done if you are going to try to plan to reuse it again.

    The paint is sticky, that having a clean surface may not be as important like when you paint a car. But I would wipe down the area first with a laquer thinner or acetone first regardless. Sand blasted metal doesn't make a difference on applying it.

    Use your DA (low speed) or sanding block with a light to med. grit to break the surface to make smooth. It left a rough surface like sandpaper when sprayed on. Don't put it in areas where paint will be in more noticable areas. ie: outer panels.

    The instructions say not to reduce it. I am curious if putting acetone in would thin it to make it flatten out more when sprayed on and not leave a rough surface as much. Acetone is the only stuff I know of that removes the paint while it is tacky or not cured yet. Once dry, it is hard as a rock. It is UV sensitive and will get a gold look to it if left out in the sun too long once dried. But that could take a while to happen.

    Make sure you wear rubber gloves, mask, and googles.
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    Mike, Fremont, CA.

    Offline Chlngrcrzy

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    Re: Rust treatment
    « Reply #10 on: September 07, 2007 - 10:17:21 AM »
    What kind of temperatures can you apply at? I may be doing some this fall, and it does cool down here.
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    Offline Topcat

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    Re: Rust treatment
    « Reply #11 on: September 07, 2007 - 10:23:43 AM »
    The final coat of Rust Bullet may be topcoated after 24 hours with almost any paint if a different color is needed or desired. Cure time varies based on relative humidity and temperature of the surface: 80% in 4 hours, fully cured in 72 hours. When applying Rust Bullet, it is recommended that the air or surface temperature not be below 35oF (2°C) or above 110°F (43°C). Ideal application temperature is between 50°F (10°C) and 80°F (27°C) with humidity below 90% to ensure proper drying. Do not apply to surfaces when the existing temperature of the surface exceeds 150°F (66°C) or is below 32°F (0°C). After curing, Rust Bullet has a service temperature range of 314°F (157°C) continuous, and can tolerate temperature spikes of up to 700°F (371°C) for up to 24 hour periods. Immediately after use, spray equipment must be cleaned with xylene, acetone, or toluene.
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    Mike, Fremont, CA.

    Offline HP2

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    Re: Rust treatment
    « Reply #12 on: September 07, 2007 - 01:43:06 PM »
    Quote from: Challengercrazy on September 06, 2007 - 09:32:16 PM
    Sounds like this stuff has to be applied very carefully, can you use a regular primer over the top to fill in highs and lows, and is sandable?

    No more carefully than any other primer. It can go on as smooth as your willing to spray it. It does stay tacky for quite some time, so you need to keep it someplace safe to dry. You can top coat it with any other sandable primer to further smooth things out.
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    Offline Topcat

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    Re: Rust treatment
    « Reply #13 on: September 09, 2007 - 10:47:45 AM »
    Yesterday I decided to try and thin the Rust Bullet paint with Tolulene. I was running low on paint and needed to paint the upper inside areas of the trunk. It worked perfect. In fact, it came out with much more of a smooth surface than shooting it straight as it was.

    They say not to thin it. (So you have to buy more of their paint)  :2cents:
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    Mike, Fremont, CA.

    Offline LAA66

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    Re: Rust treatment
    « Reply #14 on: September 09, 2007 - 11:59:47 AM »
     Just picked up some Rust Bullit and I'm ready to spray my trunk floor. I only have Acetone right now. Do you think that will work? What ratio did you thin the material?

     Thanks, 
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