Help!! Key won't go into ignition

[Street_Challenged73]

Another alternative is the Lisle tool company's two slot (T-shaped) steering wheel puller.  I have had both mine as well as a parts column apart several times and before using that to pull the crush sleeve off, let's just say I tried it on my non-original one first. (I've since fixed it up again with some light hammering.)  To get your lock mechanism off, there should just be a metal collar on the inside of the column that usually takes a couple quick blows with a flathead screwdriver and hammer to jar it loose.   I don't know what you paid for the ignition switch through YO, but there's a guy on eBay who sells a nice matched set for the entire car for under $180.00.

[kingtroll]

Another alternative is the Lisle tool company's two slot (T-shaped) steering wheel puller.  I have had both mine as well as a parts column apart several times and before using that to pull the crush sleeve off, let's just say I tried it on my non-original one first. (I've since fixed it up again with some light hammering.)  To get your lock mechanism off, there should just be a metal collar on the inside of the column that usually takes a couple quick blows with a flathead screwdriver and hammer to jar it loose.   I don't know what you paid for the ignition switch through YO, but there's a guy on eBay who sells a nice matched set for the entire car for under $180.00.

The ignition lock set was like 24 dollars. Is this the puller you mention?  http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=795

The puller I bought almost worked. The middle shaft wasn't out enough (on puller) so when I turned it it was already in the down position too quickly and wasn't enough to get the column out. I need a puller that has a longer middle shaft or one that I can get inside the crush can first then start tightening. Nothing is ever easy....

[422STROKER]

I just did this last night.  PITA.   Try using a socket under the puller to extend it.  When you get under there, there is another collar that is supposed to come off.  Needs a special puller, I don't have that one.  I was able to loosen the 2 screws for the mechanism on the top(under the collar).  Then I used a stiff O-ring pick with a hook/bend, and with a little shaking and %^!&*$ it slid out.  There is a little button that must be depressed for the cylinder to come out.  It may help if you put the chrome collar back on the cylinder to have something to hold on too.

I used the FSM as far as I could go.  Then I had to improvise a little when I got to the bearing under the snap-ring. 

Tom

[kingtroll]

Well 72challengerorange I used your advice and put a socket on the end of the puller and it worked. Now it looks a lot harder like Moparal mentioned. I have to see how the next piece comes off. I attached pics of the puller for those who have not done this before.


 

[422STROKER]

Glad that worked!

Hey, I was able to get the cylinder out without taking the whole thing apart.

Take the turn signal, hazard off, then loosen the 3 phillips head screws around the perimeter.  Then jiggle it a little(a lot) and you will see 2 larger phillips head screws under that collar.  Loosen, do not remove these.  With a 90 degree pick I was able to reach under that plate and depress the lock tab.  Just push on it and slide the cylinder out.

Had to be easier than locating a puller small enough to pull that next collar!

Tom

[sleepychallenger]

Dumb question,

is it possible that the internals rolled over and maybe have to put the key in upside down? just a thought.

[kingtroll]

I did try that because I felt like I had nothing to lose anyways. Thanks for the suggest though ya never know.

[DAYLEY/CHALLENGER]

A related topic.  I pulled my wheel and can off to get to the screw that tightens the turn signal lever.  Mine was very loose.   The screw on the left of the turnsignal switch that is between the red and white is the one.  Mine tightened right up and made me feel better that something that was 38 years old actually worked.

[kingtroll]

Well I am back to trying to fix my ignition key problem. I got the part from YO and now I am stuck. I loosened all the visable screws but the cover that is below the turn signal switch doesn't budge. I losssened all the bottom screws, took out the screw that hold the turn signal arm and was able to lift the platic switch but the bottom piece that is part of the steering column doesn't budge. Before I go too far any suggestions? Am I suppossed to pull back the plastic switch and then use a puller to get this second piece off? (column piece) I do see a ring on the shaft is this supossed to come out first somehow? Any help would be great. Thanks I attched a pic showing where I am at. I put back the signal arm screw so i wouldn't lose it. 

[matt63]

If I remember correctly that snap ring must come off.

[kingtroll]

Well I got the snap ring off. Now when I lift on the switch it comes up once the little shaft it has clears the hole underneath. Now I can only move the switch up so far because it has wires going to it that go down into the column. I have removed all screws. Do I need a puller now to remove the column piece? See pic.    Thanks

[matt63]

No. I think the next piece just needs some gentle prying to slide off of the shaft.  You may have to feed/pull the signal harness to get it off.  It's been awhile since I have done this.

[422STROKER]

You need a puller according to the Factory service manual.

Try and see if there is any slack at the base of the column on those wires and gently pull them up enough to slide the turn signal assy out.

Remove the 3 phillips head screws under this assy.

At the top of this collar underneath it there are 2 phillips head screws on a plate.  Loosen-do not remove these 2 screws.  With a stiff Pick you need to reach under this plate and depress the tab holding the switch in.  It looks different than the replacement.  The original is round and stiff.  The new one is more of a long spring.  Take a look at your new switch and try to get a feel of the tension needed to depress it.

If you can't figure what I'm saying I will post a pic after I scan it in the FSM.

You could make a pick out of a scratch awl and some heat.  The 90 degree part shoud only be 1/4" to facilitate getting it under the plate.

BTW the 2 screws under are tough to get to but if you jiggle the collar a little and twist it there is a small cutout where the hazzard assy id that helps.  Remember do not take these 2 out just loosen them a little.

Tom

[kingtroll]

I'll see if I can get some slack into the wires like you say 72Challenger that's whats got me stuck now. I'am going to have to continue this tomorrow but I have definately made progress thanks to you and others that have suffered before me. If I can get the wires a little more slack and get it off the shaft then I can use a puller. The screw holes do seem smaller than the ones that I have in my set though. thanks again I appreciate the help you and the other guys have given me because I am pretty much on my own with this one (other than the help you and others have given me).

[422STROKER]

Yeah, the FSM shows a specialty puller that mounts to the center shaft and bolts to the 3 little holes in there.  I didn't see any way my pullers would work.  Try the method I explained first, that is how I did mine a couple days ago.  I didn't pull the whole thing apart to do it.


Tom