Willow Springs, Spring Fling, MATS 1600 mile road trip

[ShelbyDogg]

For the crank timing, this is what I'm doing for my EDIS 36-1 crank trigger. It is a steel motorcycle sprocket. The bigger the chain, the bigger the gear. I copied this from this guys site. I have to do it this way because I have a 4 belt pulley running A/C and power steering.

http://supersoda.com/detail.php?id=00000000121




He started with this and cut it down.


I found this on Ebay for $17.95


I'm going with the EDIS because of the 10 degree advance limp home mode. I don't trust the heatsinks in the megasquirt for coil drivers. Plus I have extra V8 edis modules and parts from the junkyard, but only have one Megasquirt controller.
Seems simple enough
Rob

[ntstlgl1970]

You did not change any hard parts in the transmission,right? ( Pump, drums etc.)

This is a non lock up trans right?

You know nothing about this core, like if it was working correctly before you got it,right?

If a non lock up,make sure the pump only has two check balls in the stator (reaction shaft support) and not three balls (it should have two balls and one open hole). you can see them in thru the front seal just inside the inner pump gear.

Hi Terry,

This is a lock up trans, it has the 3 balls in the front pump. You are correct, I bought this as a core, so there may have been a problem with it that I did not catch. The pump is the same one the trans came with. I've changed both drums, did the transgo TFOD-2HD kit, replaced the switch valve and new transgo seperator plate in the valve body. Geartrain endplay is right at .005" with the unit endplay at .038". The converter I'm using is and "875" for an early dakota V-6, lock up with the offset lug for the flexplate and no balance weights. A couple of mismatches that I may have messed up on:

1. Assuming the front pump will work with the TCS front drum
2. Assuming the front pump will work with the V-6 converter

I should call TCS and see if the front drum is not compatible with the diesel stator - something I had read on the transgo tech website.

Any other ideas?

[ntstlgl1970]

For the crank timing, this is what I'm doing for my EDIS 36-1 crank trigger. It is a steel motorcycle sprocket. The bigger the chain, the bigger the gear. I copied this from this guys site. I have to do it this way because I have a 4 belt pulley running A/C and power steering.

http://supersoda.com/detail.php?id=00000000121




He started with this and cut it down.


I found this on Ebay for $17.95


I'm going with the EDIS because of the 10 degree advance limp home mode. I don't trust the heatsinks in the megasquirt for coil drivers. Plus I have extra V8 edis modules and parts from the junkyard, but only have one Megasquirt controller.
Seems simple enough
Rob

If I was still using the stock pulley, I would do the same as you are. I've changed pulleys and the alternator on mine so I can run the trigger behind the pulley. I think I had a pic of it earlier in the thread. I'm also going to run the edis module instead of having the MS do it all. I did decide to try using the neon DIS coils instead of using the ford ones just because they take regular plug wires. The coils are very close in primary resistance so hopefully the inductance will be close as well. I know that they fire from when I mocked everything up on the board. We'll see how it runs on the stand.

[tactransman]

Any other ideas?

Well the drum would not effect pump "pumping". I assume that you verified that the hub is turning the inner pump gear? If so,I would think it has to be in the VB.

[ntstlgl1970]

Well the drum would not effect pump "pumping". I assume that you verified that the hub is turning the inner pump gear? If so,I would think it has to be in the VB.

I wouldn't think so either, but I'm at a loss right now. I did mock up the converter, bellhousing and pump without the trans on the engine to verify I had lug engagement and it was fully engaged. That's what I don't get. I did read something about mismatching the stator support to the pump body, I looked at that pretty close, but could have missed something.

[ntstlgl1970]

Was out of town over the weekend so no work done on the engine and trans stuff. Picked up the charcoal color that I am going to run instead of the flat black for the hood, stripes, etc. I did talk to the painter friday and he wants to have the holes in the engine compartment welded up. I told him originally I thought maybe that I would have the engine compartment painted up last so I could have some time to sort out what holes needed to stay and which ones should go. He convinced me that it was easier to drill new holes later. So he asked if I could give him a diagram of what holes I wanted welded up. The car is at his buddy's place getting the holes welded since he doesn't have enough electrical service where the painter is at.
-Since he volunteered I gave him the big list-

He asked for it......

Red means weld it up, including the blower motor hole though it isn't marked in these images.

kinda looks like some weird christmas card...

[Tubbed440]

 

10-4 on the Christmas card!   

[ntstlgl1970]

Got some more done on the alternator bracket/crank trigger mount. I think I am at the point where I can weld it up. Got the parts to all line up, crank sensor is at .030" clearance, makes about 1.5 volts AC while cranking. I still have to make the slot for belt tension adjustment on the alternator and do some final shaping on the bracket itself so it looks more like a finished product. I have to say that having leftover fuel injector rail material makes for good bracket spacers and crank sensor mounts. The two countersunk bolts that hold the crank sensor mount, one of them is pointed so it will hold the sensor in place without bolting the sensor itself to something. The crank sensor I'm using is actually a cam sensor from a 4.6L ford SOHC motor. It's a VR generator so it shouldn't matter that it isn't a "crank" sensor.

[ntstlgl1970]

Talked to the painter yesterday, his buddy should be done welding up the engine compartment stuff maybe tuesday. Told him I'd call wednesday. Also bought the charcoal color that I am going to run and another gallon of clear that the painter wanted. Still amazes me how much material costs to paint a car and I'm not even using high end paint (PPG DBU)

[Tubbed440]

Lookin good man. 

[ShelbyDogg]

I like the looks of the timing wheel mount. Are you able to loosen the allen bolts on the hub and turn the wheel to adjust timing? I dont see any way to move the pickup.

Rob

[ntstlgl1970]

SD: The trigger wheel doesn't move in relation to the crank damper. I want to give the sensor mount a little bit of adjustment, but I need to mark the arc of where the bolt slots would need to "go". Haven't done that yet.

Tubbed440: Thanks

I have to figure out how much more bandsaw work I need to do before welding the 3 parts together. It's like a puzzle. At least this is only the 2nd one I've had to make.

[ntstlgl1970]

I did some work on the lower intake this weekend. I should have a full couple of days worth of welding to do between the front bracket stuff and this valley pan thing. Also got the trans controller done along with the network link. Still have to test it and make sure everything works right. The car is back from the place the engine compartment was welded up at, I'm going to try and go down there Thursday and see how things are going.

[ShelbyDogg]

Sorry for my 2 cents but those coils are going to bake just like being in an oven. I run a 195* Thermostat for my FI car and there is serious heat under there after shutting it down. Have a spare one ready to mount elsewhere when you car quits driving to a car show.

Rob

[ntstlgl1970]

I'm thinking that I will space the coils up so there is about an inch of space between the bottom of the pan and the bottom of the coils. They are about 1/2" off the bottom as it is now. I figure if it survives running on the stand with little to no airflow, it should have a good chance of surviving in the car. Of course I'm going to make sure there is a way for the hot air to get out from under the manifold too. These coils bolt right to the aluminum valve cover in the stock application (neon) so it/they should be able to handle some heat.
If it doesn't work out, it doesn't work out, but I have to try.