Electrical Problem

[trouble]

I do not have points,I have electronic ignition.

[LAA66]

 Mines a Mopar electronic ignition conversion from the original factory duel point ignition. It has an adjustment that must be checked occasionally using a feeler gauge. If your's is too, then you need to check it as Chryco suggested. I still have the installation instructions here somewhere and will scan & post if you like.

 Jon

[MEK-Dangerfield]

trouble,

  What they are talking about is the gap for the reluctor inside your distributor. It is underneath the rotor. I'm not sure this is your problem, but I really don't have any other leads yet here. I think you probably wasted money on a new ignition box.


  Mike

[RusTy/SE]

  I had the same symptom with my 86 D250, it went away when the motor was replaced with a rebuilt 87 360 that has about 2,300 miles on it without reoccurence. Very frustrating as it would happen any given time whether fully warmed up or sitting overnight, hot or cold temps, day or night, couple of times a week and even months apart
  The fellow who took out my old 318 and rebuilt the 360 said my distibutor shaft was totally worn out. I've never installed a distributor and so have no experience to explain what he meant, but he felt sure that was at the root of my problem. I'd replaced rotor button, distributor cap, coil, and control module without effect.

Russ

[duodec]

I had a '73 Dart Swinger slant six that would die sporadically and refuse to restart for a time, then run well for weeks before the problem recurred.  No spark.  When I finally got around to keeping some test tools in the car, I found that the test light ground to coil negative test (should flash when cranked) was staying off.  So no spark because the coil wasn't getting switched; the ignition module was switched 'on' full time and the ballast resistor was  extremely hot. 

Turned out to be the ignition module, but I'd already replaced the ballast resistor, reluctor, and pickup and confirmed the state of the wiring and power.

The car ran very well for the remaining years I had it.

[trouble]

  I want to thank all of you for your help.
I went out to start the car and it would not start.I changed the electronic ignition box,and the car started right up.
Thanks ,Trouble

[ViperMan]

trouble,

  What they are talking about is the gap for the reluctor inside your distributor. It is underneath the rotor. I'm not sure this is your problem, but I really don't have any other leads yet here. I think you probably wasted money on a new ignition box.


  Mike

I thought maybe he meant the gap between the rotor and the cap terminals

[MEK-Dangerfield]

I thought maybe he meant the gap between the rotor and the cap terminals

   

Jeff,

  When you buy a new distributor, you have to set the reluctor gap first, then you put the rotor on.


   Mike

[LAA66]

  Glad to see you found the problem. I wouldn't chuck that old orange box just yet. Did the exact same thing as you when trying to find my ignition problem.  Now I have a spare box in the roadside repair kit I carry.

 Just a thought, in your case, it could have been a bad ground from your box to the frame. When replaced, the ground may have been reinstated. I'm using a control module (Orange box) by FBO and they recommend running a separate wire from the control module housing to the negative on the battery because of this issue.

[trouble]

Your right,I'm not going to throw the box out.
I hope that was the problem.

[JayBee]

Congradulations. I was going to suggest the control module too but someone already did and you said you had another one.