How much difference in subframe connectors

[BS23VOB_FJ5_Faker]

I have a set of Mopar Performance frame connectors, but I have seen alot of positive things about the US steel connectors that are welded to the floor pans the whole length of the connectors.  Is there enough difference between the two types that I should consider changing over to the floor pan following design?

[Carlwalski]

Not sure on the difference in strength & rigid factor.
But, the US style connectors have the big bonus of being a tidier/cleaner finish. 

[IMNCARN82]

  I think all the weld surface keeps them from twisting as much. I like the more "factory" look

Not sure on the difference in strength & rigid factor.
But, the US style connectors have the big bonus of being a tidier/cleaner finish. 

[Topcat]

I'm currently putting the U.S. Cartool sub frame connectors in. I can say one thing, these aren't just a drop in a couple hours work type of connectors. As I have been trial fitting them, I couldn't imagine doing this without my car on a rotisserie. It would be very difficult doing this type of frame connector on your back I would think.

If you do decide to use the U.S Cartool frame connectors, what I discovered works best for on and off trial fit and trimming is to spot weld bolts on each end without the heads on where the holes are for each end. Make sure the bolt thread dia. is almost the same as the hole size. This way, you fill be trial fitting them in the exact location each time as you are taking them on and off many times over checking the fit. 

[RusTy/SE]

Thanks for the tip Topcat. Could you post a couple of pics?

[Topcat]

I took a couple with my camera. Lemme see what I can do.

BTW, the rear torque boxes are aleady in. 

I'll be welding them hopefully weather permitting next week end while the car is on jack stands in many places. I got a hold of a bunch of milk crates. I plan to put flat boards on each one and then the jack stand on top of each one. This will give me more of a relaxed height where my back can be more upright to be more accurate in welding them in. That way, the frame is in the relaxed position for the final weld up.

Hang in there...I will do a slew of pics of the work next week-end. Gotta go to work in the meantime ya know. 

[HP2]

There is a small amount of difference between the ones that weld to the entire floor compared to those that only weld into the subframes. Certainly the ones that weld to the floor the entire length are going to provide additional resistence to twisting, but it is at a level that would require guages to actually show the difference. I'd say the vast majority of owners won't be able to tell the "seat of the pants" difference between the two.

[BS23VOB_FJ5_Faker]

Given the fact that there is no way I am going to put my car back on a rotisserie, I guess I will be content with the Mopar Performance subframe connectors.  Thanks for the input.

[Ross]

I got a hold of a bunch of milk crates. I plan to put flat boards on each one and then the jack stand on top of each one.

Are you actually going to trust your life to a milk crate?
Personally I'd use something with a bit more strength than a box designed to hold 4 gallons of milk. 

But thats just me.

[Topcat]

The car will still be on the rotisserie still but in a locked, bolted, relaxed position just a hair under after as insurance.

[Topcat]

Sent a pic from my phone today. Should get to my e-mail anyday now. 

Don't know why it takes so long. 

[RusTy/SE]

Thanks Mike. I visited my car today - finally on the rotisserie. The front suspension has been separated from the body as well as the rear suspension. The bottom side will be blasted in the not to distant future; it looks like that industrial strength road salt up in Michigan hasn't been too kind   Recently pinned down a correct 4938S Carter and tonight I scored an NOS tail light. I'm thinking I may have to reword Johnny Cash's 'One Piece At A Time'

[Topcat]

When I do go to weld, I'm going to have to turn the mig up a hair so the thicker metal on the subframe connectors gets a nice flat bead going and not a ball blob weld.

The problem with that is the floors aren't as thick a metal and I would think burn thru will be a challenge to prevent. I'll be using the twenty guage wire which is way more user friendly IMO than std., .024 wire. Steady as she goes and take my time is my only way I can prevent burn thru I would think.

Thanks Mike. I visited my car today - finally on the rotisserie. The front suspension has been separated from the body as well as the rear suspension. The bottom side will be blasted in the not to distant future; it looks like that industrial strength road salt up in Michigan hasn't been too kind   Recently pinned down a correct 4938S Carter and tonight I scored an NOS tail light. I'm thinking I may have to reword Johnny Cash's 'One Piece At A Time'

Send pics too. Twirling E bodies is great.

[Topcat]

I did a check today while they were on the car and I discovered that when you tighten all three the gap between the connectors and the body tends to get tighter and closer. Perfect before i flip her back and get underneath. I plan to contour the back ends so that they flow to the frame smoothy. 

[BacardiCBR]

I went with the US car tool connectors on my build.  They look really nice and have a very clean and complete look.  As others will comment I'm sure, they do not just drop-in.  It took hours of grinding to get the lines right.  It was so off, that we even called US car tool wondering if perhaps they shipped the wrong parts.