Lots of questions after 440 engine swap

[covert]

Hi guys.

OK, so about 4 months ago a posted on here about a old wagon that was for sale locally with a 440 and a suregrip.  Well, I ended up getting it, and after about 2 months of it sitting around, I finally got to the engine swap.  With the help of some friends, we actually got it done.  Well, I did what they told me to do.  (Changing my oil is about as much wrenching I've ever done before this...)

I think it turned out pretty nice, but now I have a lot of questions, mostly because what we were swapping out was a 400.  Basically, since neither engine was ever originally in the car, I now I have a mix-match of stuff from the original Barracuda, the wagon, and where ever the 400 came from.

-  I had to leave the AC off, and use a lot of brackets from on the 440, which didn't have AC.  I found out about the whole "Short deck 400, Tall deck 440" thing when I started to move over all of the accessories.  That cascaded to me having to use the older style powersteering pump too.  I'd like to actually put the AC back on (its hot here in NC) -- where is the best place to get an entire set of brackets?  Junk yard, from any 440 with AC?

-  The engine is running hot.  I can go about 10 miles on the highway before it gets to 220 and I have to pull over.  My friends who helped me with the swap think its just too much motor for the radiator.  (we changed the thermostat to a 180, and its still overheats)  The 400 ran fine on the same radiator, but supposedly that's a much cooler running engine.  Would you guys agree?

-  We used the water pump and radiator that was from the 400 on the 440.  They matched, with the water inlets on the bottom of the radiator / engine being on the passenger side.  (I looked up the chrysler part number for the radiator, and its from a car with a 400 and AC)  Every radiator I look up for the Barracuda has the bottom water hose on the drivers side.  So should I switch out the radiator and the water pump at the same time, and move to a more stock(ish) configuration, or just find a radiator with the inlet on the passenger side?

Thanks everybody.   I couldn't have done it without all of the info I've read in the archives of this site.

Cheers,
Covert

[Chryco Psycho]

I doubt the rad si the problem , I would leave it all alone until you are sure what the problem is
 I would start with making sure the timing is set around 14* at idle & leave the vacuum advance disconnected , make sure the T stat is working & has a 180* in there , check plug color to be sure it is not running lean
 the brakets are probably best to get from a wrecker



 actually I can see you problem , you have the vacuum advance connected to manifold vacuum this alone will cause overheating , either hook it to the port on the other side of the carb or disconnect it completely

[cudabob496]

I have a 72 service manual for my Cuda. It lists possible causes of overheating: blocked radiator air passages, incorrect timing, low engine oil, incorrect valve timing, bad temp gauge, restricted overflow tube, faulty rad cap, frozen heat control valve, dragging brakes, excessive engine idle, frozen coolant, faulty fan drive, faulty temp sending unit, faulty vacuum bypass valve, overfilling, insufficient corrosion inhibiter, blown head gasket, broken or shifted lower hose spring, low coolant level, collapsed rad hose, fan belt lose, glazed, or oily, air leak through bottom hose, bad thermostat, water pump impeller broken or lose, restricted rad water passages or restricted engine water jacket

[covert]

Cool -- You're right -- The vacuum advance is hooked up to the wrong port!  (looked it up on the edelbrock webpage)

That would also explain the issues we had timing

I'll disconnect tomorrow and see what happens.  Awesome.

[Jacksboys]

Hey covert,

Is your air cleaner base 14".  I had the same problem with finding an air filter to fit on my engine.  To let you know, Mr. Gasket sells a filter that will fit and it is only about 2" tall, so hood clearance will not be a problem.   

[cudabob496]

I doubt the rad si the problem , I would leave it all alone until you are sure what the problem is
 I would start with making sure the timing is set around 14* at idle & leave the vacuum advance disconnected , make sure the T stat is working & has a 180* in there , check plug color to be sure it is not running lean
 the brakets are probably best to get from a wrecker



 actually I can see you problem , you have the vacuum advance connected to manifold vacuum this alone will cause overheating , either hook it to the port on the other side of the carb or disconnect it completely

Chryco, you're a genius!

[Chryco Psycho]

Umm Thanks
 I actually fixed this on a guys Charger a few years ago & he had driven his car for 10 years with an overheating issue , after the change the car ran dead cold at the temp of the thermostat, he couldn`t believe it he had had it to many mechanics over the years , no one caught it

[covert]

Thanks Chryco.

Looks like that was the problem.  I took the car out for about a 20 minute, 15 mile trip today (it was raining most of the day, so didn't go further) and and it never got close to overheating.  Topped out around 195, but only once stopping, coming off the highway.

I'll take it out again for a long drive tomorrow, to make completely sure.  But that's further than I could go before.

My friends who helped me to do the engine swap are great mopar mechanics, but they primarily do demolition derby cars.  So there were lots of stuff on my car where they said something to the effect of "I don't know where that goes -- we usually just chop that off."   


Jack,

That air cleaner is just the one that came with the wagon.  I haven't even had it together long enough to replace anything -- but that's going to be one of the first things.  I will check out Mr Gasket.

Cheers,
Covert

[Chryco Psycho]