No starting with the key.....

[burrpenick]

I grounded the CORRECT pole on the starter relay tonight and the key turned the motor over fine. The motor hit a few times but I didnt try to really start it. Its been very cold all day and I dont have a choke. Looks like I will be able to have the permanent exhaust installed saturday and then its off to the body shop!

THANKS TO ALL!!!!!!!

[Chryco Psycho]

 

[burrpenick]

Just found out that when I let the key back to the run position the motor dies. I was happy to get the key to work, but didnt actually start the car. I did have some wires on the wrong posts, maybe I burn out something? HELP!

[MEK-Dangerfield]

It sounds like a bad ignition switch to me.


  Mike

[burrpenick]

OK, I was not sure but thought that maybe I had read about this issue before and that it was something else.

My buddy was here when we broke the motor in and used the remote starter switch I have and now I want to hook it up again, but cannot remember how? I know it was on the starter relay but what goes where?


THANKS!

[burrpenick]

I know it was running with the key switch in the on position tuesday, so I have evidently caused a problem when I was trying to ground the neutral switch. I had the right prong on the relay but then plugged that wire on the other prong, which caused it to get hot. I immediately removed it and figured out that I was supposed to leave the brown/yellow wire OFF. I do see a fusable link here and hope that may be the problem.....IDEAS?

[Bullitt-]

The brown/yellow trace wire is the ground which normally goes to the interlock on the tranny but would be safe electrically to ground to body(be certain tranny in partk & set your emergency brake....twice), the yellow wire is the power from the ignition switch when in the start position, other wires going to the ballast resistor from the ignition switch receive power both in the start & on/run position. As to burning anything out use a multitester on DC setting to see where & when there is power present, or set to Ohms to check continuity of your fusible link.

[burrpenick]

THe fuseable link just off the starter relay seems to be OK, but then I moved over to the ballast resister so I could see it current was going through it. It was hot...... I still have my neutral safety switch grounded (the lower front prong on the starter relay. The prong just opposite that has the yellow wire plugged on. HOpefully that is correct, but I dont know why the ballast was hot?

 

[Bullitt-]

The ballast resistor does get hot, it is basically burning off 6 of the 12volts going to the ignition.
Your setup in the pic. looks good to me, so what is & not happening?

[burrpenick]

no juice in the run position with the key switch. If held in the start mode, the motor will continue to run.
It did fine on tuesday when we broke it in with the switch in the run position and using a remote starter, I somehow messed up something when I tried to ground that neutral switch. saw some smoke.

[Bullitt-]

So the motor cranks, engine starts but dies when you release the key ....
I'm guessing the switch in the column could be bad, I think it's the same wiring for start & run...I will study my diagram & let you know or maybe someone who knows can chime in quickly.

[burrpenick]

Thanks, you are correct, dies when the switch is let go, but I cant understand why it was OK tuesday? We fired the new motor using a remote starter clamped on to the starter relay posts, with the key in the run position. It worked fine, and the key would turn the car off. I just didnt have the neutral switch hooked up so the key would not START the car. I did cross some wires when I grounded that neutral switch, could THAT have caused the iggy switch to go bad overnight? I'' send you a picture of the wiring.....

[Bullitt-]

Two wires from the ignition switch run through the bulkhead connector & to the dual ballast resistor(you do have a dual ballast resistor?).. one is start (brown I think) goes to one side of the ballast only gets power in the start position, the other is run (blue with a tracer I think) and gets power in the run position. Turn the switch to the run position & test the incoming wire for power aprox.12volts, test the power coming out of the ballast for power approx. 6volts. If you have power in & no power out the ballast is the problem, if you have no power then the switch or wiring/connectors should be the problem.

[burrpenick]

yes, I have the dual resister. tried to check it earlier but it was hot to touch and I thought I had something wrong but someone told me it is supposed to get warm. I will check it out just as you say tomorrow and HOPE! And hope I can find a ballast, they are not common I'm sure.

[Bullitt-]

I picked up a new ballast about a year ago at a local Advance Auto parts in stock for about $5.00 Very common part.....Hope that's the problem but check for power in 1st.