Author Topic: Plastic Headlight Question (non-mopar)  (Read 2343 times)

Offline hooD

  • detroit iron
  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 2820
  • Motor City Made Muscle
Plastic Headlight Question (non-mopar)
« on: January 04, 2008 - 02:44:04 AM »
My son's 1999 Sable has a really bad case of yellow, foggy, headlights.  I have used PlastX by meguires and another plastic cleaner made by 3M without much improvement.  This is why I like our ebody glass headlights vs the plastic stuff that is used now.  Anyway, any ideas on how to restore the shine and clarity to my headlight lenses?  Can they be wet sanded and then sprayed with a clear coat? 

The picture below is 2 years ago after hand rubbing the lenses with the Plastix product.  I had just finished the passenger side. Drivers side wasn't done yet.  They look 1,000 times worse today.  If they looked like this picture i wouldn't be whinning.  I'm considering buying some junkyard lights if I can't clean these up.  It's too cold to go take a current picture of how they look now, trust me they look like poo.
-Larry
member since AUG 2007
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NvrWiLgDm7Y

southeastern michigan usa
             
 
            
1973 'CUDA 340
 
original owner
37,117 miles
  
:grinyes: *click my E-Body* :grinyes:




Offline Chryco Psycho

  • Administrator
  • C-C.com Guru
  • *****
  • Posts: 36620
  • 70 Challenger R/T SE 70 tube Chassis Cuda now sold
Re: Plastic Headlight Question (non-mopar)
« Reply #1 on: January 04, 2008 - 04:28:19 AM »
try anything , they are basically junk now anyway

Challenger - You`ll wish You Hadn`t

Offline FJ5_440

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 879
  • Wisconsin
Re: Plastic Headlight Question (non-mopar)
« Reply #2 on: January 04, 2008 - 07:22:23 AM »
I have heard of using cheap toothpaste successfully.  I don't know if they were as bad as the ones you are talking about, but it seemed to have worked pretty well and cost very little.  It is worth a shot anyway
** Shane **

Offline Slotts

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1893
Re: Plastic Headlight Question (non-mopar)
« Reply #3 on: January 04, 2008 - 07:45:13 AM »
hooD,

I'd try a side edged buffing wheel on a drill and with rouge.
You can find all differenct types of rouge sticks at a Sears hardware.
That's my :2cents:

Slotts

Offline hemiken

  • Sr. Resident
  • ******
  • Posts: 8785
  • Hemi-fied Mopar in Australia
Re: Plastic Headlight Question (non-mopar)
« Reply #4 on: January 04, 2008 - 08:50:10 AM »
A good freind of mine refurbishes these for a living. Good easy money, so he says.  He gives them a good wash with warm soapy water and then uses micro fine sand paper after he has let them dry and then he clear coates them with clear paint. :2thumbs:
1970 Barracuda   (O^--^===|===^--^O)
1971 Barracuda   (O O {]{]{]|[}[}[} O O)
1970 Challenger  (O O [======R/T=] O O)
1971 Challenger  (O O ===== ===== O O)
I pay homage to the best Mopars ever built.

Offline Wang

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 993
  • "just hangin' out"
    • valleyautoworks.net
Re: Plastic Headlight Question (non-mopar)
« Reply #5 on: January 04, 2008 - 08:52:14 AM »
I do this for customers ALL THE TIME..   wetsand them, and buff them .

Depending how 'heavy' the crud is on the surface,, start with 600 grit (400 if really heavy crud) and finish up with 1000 . Then buff with a wool pad and a course cut rubbing compound.  

You will be amazed.
Hurry,, Duane the tub,,I'm Dwouning....

Offline JayBee

  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 2477
Re: Plastic Headlight Question (non-mopar)
« Reply #6 on: January 04, 2008 - 09:19:52 AM »
A guy on TCCA (Taurus Car Club of America) suggested Brasso and elbow grease.  :dunno: I'm there 'cause my other car's a '94 Sable.
John

1970 Barracuda convertible
2014 Toyota Avalon

Offline hooD

  • detroit iron
  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 2820
  • Motor City Made Muscle
Re: Plastic Headlight Question (non-mopar)
« Reply #7 on: January 04, 2008 - 11:45:55 AM »
I do this for customers ALL THE TIME..   wetsand them, and buff them .

Depending how 'heavy' the crud is on the surface,, start with 600 grit (400 if really heavy crud) and finish up with 1000 . Then buff with a wool pad and a course cut rubbing compound. 

You will be amazed.

Cool, I know thats what I will do.  Is clear coat needed or should I leave them alone?
-Larry
member since AUG 2007
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NvrWiLgDm7Y

southeastern michigan usa
             
 
            
1973 'CUDA 340
 
original owner
37,117 miles
  
:grinyes: *click my E-Body* :grinyes:

Offline 71bigblock

  • Sr. Resident
  • ******
  • Posts: 5337
    • Steve's Mopars
Re: Plastic Headlight Question (non-mopar)
« Reply #8 on: January 04, 2008 - 01:05:36 PM »
Cool, I know thats what I will do.  Is clear coat needed or should I leave them alone?

I wouldnt think so, there isnt clear on the headlights to begin with are they?   :clueless:

Offline alphabuck

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 316
    • Pics of my project
Re: Plastic Headlight Question (non-mopar)
« Reply #9 on: January 04, 2008 - 01:18:24 PM »
i sell a kit made by permatex to local shops thats gotten some decent reviews. sells for about 13 bucks part number 09135 heres an article about it http://www.permatex.com/documents/4.06.PopMechanics.pdf

Offline elitecustombody

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 745
  • Supra collector
Re: Plastic Headlight Question (non-mopar)
« Reply #10 on: January 07, 2008 - 12:58:25 AM »
I recommend removing them out of the car, sand them down starting with 320 grit, followed by 400 then 600, mix good grade automotive clearcoat,not the rattle can junk,shoot few coats,and they will look good as new for years, I've been doing this for a long time,the sanding & buffing is nothing more than a quick fix that lasts only for few months
Stefan B

Elite Custom Body = AMD Sheetmetal & Glass at great prices !!


Don't do what's easy, do what's right!!

Offline hooD

  • detroit iron
  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 2820
  • Motor City Made Muscle
Re: Plastic Headlight Question (non-mopar)
« Reply #11 on: January 07, 2008 - 01:08:49 AM »
I recommend removing them out of the car, sand them down starting with 320 grit, followed by 400 then 600, mix good grade automotive clearcoat,not the rattle can junk,shoot few coats,and they will look good as new for years, I've been doing this for a long time,the sanding & buffing is nothing more than a quick fix that lasts only for few months

So after sanding with 600, no buffing is needed because the clearcoat will shine and seal the plastic?  When you say mix good grade automotive clearcoat, do you mean cutting it with laquer thinner so it is sprayable?
-Larry
member since AUG 2007
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NvrWiLgDm7Y

southeastern michigan usa
             
 
            
1973 'CUDA 340
 
original owner
37,117 miles
  
:grinyes: *click my E-Body* :grinyes:

Offline Bullitt-

  • Permanent Resident
  • *******
  • Posts: 12167
  • Better Things To Come Member Since 2/16/06
Re: Plastic Headlight Question (non-mopar)
« Reply #12 on: January 07, 2008 - 08:31:47 AM »
I tried just about everything short of sanding down & that's all that worked for me...I use 600 then 1500 grit for the final sand &  plastic lens polish...I still need to hit with a buffer but  you have to be careful or you can overheat the plastic!!!!         Don't ask me how I know.  :(
Wade  73 Rallye 340..'77 Millennium Falcon...13 R/T Classic   Huntsville, AL
Screwed by Photobucket!

Offline BIGSHCLUNK

  • Sr. Resident
  • ******
  • Posts: 9341
  • Miss NIKKI - were you this hot at 48?
Re: Plastic Headlight Question (non-mopar)
« Reply #13 on: January 07, 2008 - 09:09:08 AM »
We've done a little bit of this here. Some plastic's take to it better than others - MOPARS (concords/Caravans/Intrepids) are the worst!!! Any way depending on how bad they are will determine what grit to start with and how much time you want to spend on them.

Worst case senario....
start w 800 go to 1000 to 1500 to 2000. ONLY WET SAND! And only in areas that need it. You may have areas where you can start with 2000 right from the start. You will have to use your jugement. Again only WET sand! And only use LIGHT pressure. After this phase go to Novus Polish #3 with a small buffer. I even use a buffing wheel on my Makita drill at times. Add the Novus and wipe down often. Watch how much pressure you use (or you will make thing worse!). Then go to Novus #2 repeat process. This can be a very time consuming process, but only you know your value/time coefficient.   

I did one off of a 2000 Accord last week that had some scaling issues and it turned out real nice, BUT it was for an insurance job and had to be.

Hope this helps!!  :2thumbs:
70 Chally R/T Convertible- Yes she's really got a HEMI, no she's not a Charger!
                                             [o o o o]
                                                  OO
                                                  OO 
                                              [o o o o]
https://www.aanddtruckautoparts.com/
http://www.facebook.com/pages/A-D-Truck-and-Auto-Parts/67427352555?ref=hl

Offline elitecustombody

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 745
  • Supra collector
Re: Plastic Headlight Question (non-mopar)
« Reply #14 on: January 07, 2008 - 07:31:10 PM »
So after sanding with 600, no buffing is needed because the clearcoat will shine and seal the plastic?  When you say mix good grade automotive clearcoat, do you mean cutting it with laquer thinner so it is sprayable?

I've done dozens and dozens of all sorts of headlights,from Audi,BMW,Honda, Ford,Toyota,depending on how the lense is designed, some lenses are clear and at night when the lights are on,if you only use 600 you may notice sandscratches, but if you finish sanding with 1000-1200 grit prior clearing,they will look as good as new,this is by far the best method that will last for years,all the other polishing stuff is only temporary

by saying mix good grade automotive clear,I mean decent clearcoat you would use painting a car, not a lawn chair,and PLEASE, I beg, STOP mixing laquer thinner in clear or in any refinishing materials, that junk is made for laquer paint and  cleaning spray guns ,I wish they would just stop selling this junk, because all it is ,JUNK, 

use directions on the label of the can for mixing ratio,please or ask the supplier for tech sheet
Stefan B

Elite Custom Body = AMD Sheetmetal & Glass at great prices !!


Don't do what's easy, do what's right!!