Dr Diff 1.25" spring relocation kit?

[422STROKER]

Hate to hijack the thread but does anybody have a email or web address etc on DR DIFF I have done a search here and on GOOGLE with no luck yet. 

Try Moparts.com  do a search there.

Tom

[EVIL72]

http://members.aol.com/doctordiff/ 
 He doesn't have the 1 1/4 offset shackles on his web site, but he does have them.
 What part of the rear valance has to be modified? I know the 1" shackle kit is a direct bolt on with a B body axle, but what about the 1 1/4? the added 1/4" just trys to straighten out the rear leafs a little doesn't it.

[miketyler]

What part of the rear valance has to be modified? I know the 1" shackle kit is a direct bolt on with a B body axle, but what about the 1 1/4? the added 1/4" just trys to straighten out the rear leafs a little doesn't it.

Supposedly the "bulged" area where the rear shackle nests is where the fouling will occur after the install. I dont know, he told me on the phone that I might realize more than 1 1/4" inch. I wont be certain on the net gain till I pull the other side tomorrow and make sure both BS clearances are the same.

I got a late start and got one side on. It was more work then I thought even with a powerful compressor. I think some of those bolts had never been out before. Anyhow I now have 2" clearance on my 275/60-15 and increased backspacing by almost 1.5" at the springs closest point to give me total backspace of 7.5". I also took advantage of the 1" drop option on the front mount. It sits noticeably lower. Here's some pics for ya's

      

[miketyler]

and here's what I have planned for the front.



 

[miketyler]

noticeably lower drivers side

[IMNCARN82]

Gonna' be NICE!!   Thanks for the pics!   

[ShelbyDogg]

Mike, Be careful about too wide. The front fenders may hit at the front fender lip closest to the bumper. You would have to trim the edge.
The rears can also start rubbing on the inside, when the axle tips with one side going up with the other side still down, such as going around a turn fast.    I also had to modify my rear sway bar plate to add a second hole to mount the link at the axle.

Rob

[miketyler]

Yeah, my clearances are going to definitely be close. I have a rear sway bar to install but its an aftermarket unit that hangs under the rear end. I hope that will keep the rear more more stable and help keep the chassis and body off the tires. I think I will still need another 1-2" drop to get the rear where I'd like it to be. Hope to be running an 11" wheel.

The fronts are going to be a pain for sure, I hope I can make this work without putting a damper on driveability. 

 

[Challenger6pak]

Thanks for posting pics Mike.  It looks like a decent kit.

[ShelbyDogg]

Since you have everything apart right now, why not put in a 1" lowering block.  Might as well get it's stance right where you want it.

[miketyler]

Dont think that didn't cross my mind!! I have the tall 60-15's on it now and the ride height will be relative to the new wheels and tires I am putting on it. I thought best to wait and see how it looked with the 1"drop I have now and go from there. I would like the top of the fender opening to be ~1" above the top edge of the rim. 

 

[miketyler]

ok, got them both on and man, that was a pain in the a**. However, the rear isn't centered so I didn't tack the perches yet. My 220v gas MIG is only 160a so I'll probably take it up to a body shop close by and let them center the rear, check the pinion and weld the perches. The difference is about 1/4"-5/16" on the fender lip. The kit did give me 7.5" BS to the springs, a whole 1.5" improvement. I also noticed the car seems to lean a bit. I haven't driven it yet so maybe it will settle in. Can't figure why that might be. 

As this project rolls to an end, I have to take my hat off to you guys that do this chassis work in your garage for fun on the weekends. Breaking loose those nuts and bolts with a cheater really leaves me feeling it the next day. I guess thats another reason they call em muscle cars huh?   

[ShelbyDogg]

Mike,

My front bolts didn't come off either. The solution was to cut the nut off with a cut-off tool.  That should have a new grade 8 bolt with locknut on it anyway.

As far as leaning,  did you tighten all of the front and rear shackle bolts while the full weight was on the suspension?  All the front suspension should also be tightened the same way.

Did you bounce it up and down without the shocks on it?

Rob

[miketyler]

no, the front bolt and rear lower shackle were tightened of the car. The rear shackle top bolt was tightened with no weight on the  springs. I bounced the car but only after everything was hooked back up including the shocks.

I wondered about torque on those spring bolts actually; are they supposed to be tight or nut run down with like one thread or the crown showing?     

[ShelbyDogg]

If you ever saw the directions with most of the supension components, it always said to tighten them with the suspension loaded. That way the bushings aren't trying to twist when lowering the car.  The "home" position on the rubber should be ride height so it can deflect in both directions without tearing out either way. Just reach under there, loosen them then retighten them. 

You did put the head of the bolt towards the frame so that it can't fall out, right?

As far a bouncing, just pull the lower shock off of the plate and bounce it a little after you retighten everything and see it the car settles evenly. It's like bouncing a basketball when you have the shocks off.

As far as tightening the FRONT spring bolt, I get it as tight as I can.  Was that the ??

BTW;  Your 160amp 220 welder should be able to do the perches without any problem.