Author Topic: Dr Diff 1.25" spring relocation kit?  (Read 20609 times)

Offline miketyler

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Re: Dr Diff 1.25" spring relocation kit?
« Reply #30 on: January 07, 2008 - 06:56:18 AM »
The kit didnt come with instructions and no, I wasnt familiar with a general assembly sequence. I worked on airplanes for 15 years, maintaining bolt direction is second nature to me, so yes head of bolt inboard, just like they came out.  :grinyes:

I can understand torqing the front bolt but if you tighten the rear shackles too much, you really can dampen the shackle scissor affect. They come with new lock nuts, and I thought they may have been intended to have only been run down with only one thread past the nut, thus insuring the assembly and rubber isnt too compressed. I'm probably over-anlayzing again but it seems like you might not want the shackle bolts "tight as you can get" like the front spring bolt. BTW, the shackle bolts are just long enough, you have to compress the rubber bushings pretty good to get a thread or two showing to start the nut.

I thought about it and went and picked up a 2" drop kit, maybe will install it before I center the rear end. Definitely want all the geometry right before I install the sway bar. Is there a way to center the rear end with the wheels on? 
   
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Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Dr Diff 1.25" spring relocation kit?
« Reply #31 on: January 07, 2008 - 12:00:43 PM »
The nut is designed to bottom on the bolt limiting the pressure on the bushing 

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Offline ShelbyDogg

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Re: Dr Diff 1.25" spring relocation kit?
« Reply #32 on: January 07, 2008 - 05:50:29 PM »
Those bolts that come with the kit are too short and seem too small compared to the old ones. I would buy some good grade 8 hardware from Ace hardware and install those even if I had to open up the holes in the shackles a little bit. The lock nut is too small too.  What would happen if those bolts broke?      I tighten them down to compress the rubber "just enough"  Just like rubber on the rear shock's lower mount, and the front shock's upper mount. Too much is bad.
Rob

3 E-bodies, Megasquirt-1v3.0, Edelbrock Pro-Flo-1, Holley C950, FAST EZ-EFI; say no to carbs...yes to throttle bodies

My Pace Car restoration thread:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=44869.0


Offline miketyler

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Re: Dr Diff 1.25" spring relocation kit?
« Reply #33 on: January 07, 2008 - 06:14:06 PM »
yeah, thats what I was thinking; my rear frame rails have been cap-repaired and the additional material adds to the overall thickness of the frame rail.

 
72' Cuda restomod
70 Mustang Mach 1
07' Toyota Tacoma Prerunner Dbl cab in Speedway Blue!
01' Honda 1100 Shadow Sabre
96' Seadoo Challenger

Offline ShelbyDogg

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Re: Dr Diff 1.25" spring relocation kit?
« Reply #34 on: January 08, 2008 - 12:12:28 AM »
Here is a pic of the rear sway bar plates, that I modified to have a second hole 1" outward. They should also work if you just moved the perches.  Those aftermarket bars hang too low. With a welder you can make anything.

Rob
« Last Edit: January 08, 2008 - 12:13:59 AM by shelbydogg »
Rob

3 E-bodies, Megasquirt-1v3.0, Edelbrock Pro-Flo-1, Holley C950, FAST EZ-EFI; say no to carbs...yes to throttle bodies

My Pace Car restoration thread:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=44869.0


Offline miketyler

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Re: Dr Diff 1.25" spring relocation kit?
« Reply #35 on: January 08, 2008 - 06:45:04 AM »
ok, I see exactly what you mean now. I've already bought the Hellwig bar and it should hang much lower than my lowering blocks once they're installed. Unless I find a deal on an OEM am at least going to fit it and see what it looks like.

I emailed Cass about the leaning issue and he advised the same as you said, loosen up the high side and bounce it.  He also said it might be one of the shackles is flipped forward. They looked symmetric to me. Was there a fwd/aft or top/bottom designation on those?  :clueless:     
72' Cuda restomod
70 Mustang Mach 1
07' Toyota Tacoma Prerunner Dbl cab in Speedway Blue!
01' Honda 1100 Shadow Sabre
96' Seadoo Challenger

Offline ShelbyDogg

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Re: Dr Diff 1.25" spring relocation kit?
« Reply #36 on: January 08, 2008 - 07:48:42 AM »
Was there a fwd/aft or top/bottom designation on those?  :clueless:     

He was probably thinking about something else when he answered.  The is no front and back , like you pointed out.

If your springs were level before they should be level again.   Remember, right now, you don't have the spring perches welded on to help keep things a little more level.  That was why I stuck with a b-body rear so it was factory square.  Just make sure that the 2 perches are at the same angle when welding them on.
Rob

3 E-bodies, Megasquirt-1v3.0, Edelbrock Pro-Flo-1, Holley C950, FAST EZ-EFI; say no to carbs...yes to throttle bodies

My Pace Car restoration thread:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=44869.0


Offline miketyler

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Re: Dr Diff 1.25" spring relocation kit?
« Reply #37 on: January 08, 2008 - 08:11:21 AM »
got it - to add further irregularity, it looks like the rear end shifted somewhere along the way and the right side is about .5" further forward than the left. Since its all coming back loose for the drop kit, will need to recenter it not only from side-to-side but fore-and-aft as well, check the pinion angle, and commit the perches.

The rear end will adjust forward and aft, I assume centered in the wheel well is best? Also, for a non competitive street driver, is pinion angle that critical?     
72' Cuda restomod
70 Mustang Mach 1
07' Toyota Tacoma Prerunner Dbl cab in Speedway Blue!
01' Honda 1100 Shadow Sabre
96' Seadoo Challenger

Offline ShelbyDogg

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Re: Dr Diff 1.25" spring relocation kit?
« Reply #38 on: January 08, 2008 - 11:35:06 AM »
Loaded, the pinion angle should match the tailshaft angle + a couple of degrees for acceleration.  Check the mopar race manual. I'm not at home to copy in up. If you don't get the angle close, you may get a high speed vibration. Several friends had to add shims to correct a bad angle, to eliminate the shakes.


The rear can't shift too much fore and aft because of the centering bolt on the spring.  It might be a good time to hang some plumb bobs down and measure some diagonals.  If it is off a little, you can make a shim plate to go between the front spring mount, on the shorter side, and use some longer bolts. Might as well square it up now.   Some companies also sell a front plate to reinforce that area, that installs under the nuts.
Rob

3 E-bodies, Megasquirt-1v3.0, Edelbrock Pro-Flo-1, Holley C950, FAST EZ-EFI; say no to carbs...yes to throttle bodies

My Pace Car restoration thread:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=44869.0


Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Dr Diff 1.25" spring relocation kit?
« Reply #39 on: January 08, 2008 - 11:55:57 AM »
you need 5-7* nose down between the driveshaft & axle housing to correct the pinion angle , almost ever E body I have measured the diff is offset .5" toward one side so you can center the diff as well

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Offline miketyler

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Re: Dr Diff 1.25" spring relocation kit?
« Reply #40 on: January 10, 2008 - 08:27:37 PM »
ok, I picked up a magnetic protractor and will install the drop blocks, set the pinion and weld the perches. I tried loosening the shackles and shocks and bounced the car quite liberally several times but am still about 1/2" high on the passenger side. Because of clearance and time, I didn't loosen the fronts yet; could the fronts alone be preloading the springs resulting in a height differential?   
72' Cuda restomod
70 Mustang Mach 1
07' Toyota Tacoma Prerunner Dbl cab in Speedway Blue!
01' Honda 1100 Shadow Sabre
96' Seadoo Challenger

Offline 73Chally

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Re: Dr Diff 1.25" spring relocation kit?
« Reply #41 on: January 10, 2008 - 08:31:43 PM »
I might have missed this but are these SS springs?  there's another thread about adjusting the driver side torsion bar to level out the car due to the raised passenger side to help the torque.

Offline miketyler

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Re: Dr Diff 1.25" spring relocation kit?
« Reply #42 on: January 10, 2008 - 09:05:12 PM »
no, they're stock springs. I will keep the torsion bar solution in mind. I'll have to pick it up again to put in the lowering blocks. Will loosen everything while its up in the air and snug it all up once its back on the ground.
72' Cuda restomod
70 Mustang Mach 1
07' Toyota Tacoma Prerunner Dbl cab in Speedway Blue!
01' Honda 1100 Shadow Sabre
96' Seadoo Challenger

Offline ShelbyDogg

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Re: Dr Diff 1.25" spring relocation kit?
« Reply #43 on: January 10, 2008 - 10:59:49 PM »
You should be able to loosen the front spring mount bolts with 2 large box ended wrenches if you jack the car up enough. Is that 1/2" that noticeable. Maybe you just didn't notice it before you started taking everything apart.
Rob

3 E-bodies, Megasquirt-1v3.0, Edelbrock Pro-Flo-1, Holley C950, FAST EZ-EFI; say no to carbs...yes to throttle bodies

My Pace Car restoration thread:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=44869.0


Offline miketyler

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Re: Dr Diff 1.25" spring relocation kit?
« Reply #44 on: January 12, 2008 - 07:55:18 AM »
After some more bouncing, it actually has settled in to closer to 1/4" now and I can live with that. It may be the floor that is unlevel in my garage where its sitting that makes the body look higher on one side. Hopefully I can get this rear end finished this weekend and can start mocking up the front for the 275's.     
72' Cuda restomod
70 Mustang Mach 1
07' Toyota Tacoma Prerunner Dbl cab in Speedway Blue!
01' Honda 1100 Shadow Sabre
96' Seadoo Challenger