340 rebuild

Author Topic: 340 rebuild  (Read 7412 times)

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: 340 rebuild
« Reply #30 on: January 11, 2008 - 06:34:20 PM »
I haven`t used the Mopar stuff at all

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Offline 74 340 4speed

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Re: 340 rebuild
« Reply #31 on: January 11, 2008 - 10:08:52 PM »
It would be nice to see more companies make mopar heads.  I would love to see an AFR small block mopar head.  I just bought a set of Street 195CC runner AFR eliminators for my 406 thats going in my 67 Camaro, and at .550" lift, they are flowing 280 cfm on the intake side and 211 on the exhaust.   Are there any other charts on mopar heads that show what each particular one flows?  I am interested to see what the market is offering now.  I found this one that has a huge amount of heads.  http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tablehdc.htm#Chrysler   Check out the unported commando flow numbers, @ .600 lift.  245cfm intake, and 166cfm exhaust vs, a brodix B1 BA, 195 CC runner flowing 263 cfm intake and 195 cfm exhaust @ .600 lift.
« Last Edit: January 11, 2008 - 10:41:03 PM by 74 340 4speed »
Andy
1967 Camaro SS: 406 sbc 505 hp/506 ft lbs|4 speed|Posi|3.73s
1969 C/10  350|Turbo 350
1969 Dodge D300 318|4 speed|Dana|4.88s
1972Nova: 350|Turbo 350
1974 'Cuda: 340|4 speed|Dana 60|4.10s|posi
1999 Camaro SS: Auto|Longtube Headers|True Duals|TT2s
2013 Challenger R/T: 6 speed|Hurst with pistol grip|mopar performance exhaust|super track pak

Offline Nate70

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Re: 340 rebuild
« Reply #32 on: January 12, 2008 - 10:32:49 AM »
Ok after long talks with the machinist and long internal debates with myself over what parts to use I have finally decided on the following:

a Comp Cams 1202738 700R Xtreme 256 Torque Converter
Comp Cams K20-222-3 SB Chrysler Xtreme Energy Complete Cam Kit
stock x heads with the springs from the kit

when the engine is complete I will post some pics.  And when it is brok in I will revile if I made the right choises.
The biggest reasion for the decisions I made is it is a daily driver and I will be driving on the highway and I want it a t a reasonable fuel consumption, with prices these days and having to use 93+ octaine.

I really appreacite all the input you guys gave.
thanks.

Offline tactransman

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Re: 340 rebuild
« Reply #33 on: January 12, 2008 - 12:01:18 PM »
Ok after long talks with the machinist and long internal debates with myself over what parts to use I have finally decided on the following:


"Comp Cams 1202738 700R Xtreme 256 Torque Converter     Designed for the street rodder and enthusiast, this economically priced converter works best with stock or mildly modified engines. It improves drive ability and offers smooth in gear idling, all without affecting gas mileage. On average, it will multiply torque by 1.8 to 1. Expected stall for small block engines is 1500-1700 RPM and for big block engines 1700-1900 RPM."

  Doesn't sound like much of a stall to me. :clueless:
Terry-tactransman 
Torqueflite/Automatic Transmission Specialist
Union, Mo.
Give a man a fish and he eats for a day,teach him to fish and he eats for a lifetime.

Offline Jacksboys

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Re: 340 rebuild
« Reply #34 on: January 12, 2008 - 05:00:51 PM »
"Comp Cams 1202738 700R Xtreme 256 Torque Converter     Designed for the street rodder and enthusiast, this economically priced converter works best with stock or mildly modified engines. It improves drive ability and offers smooth in gear idling, all without affecting gas mileage. On average, it will multiply torque by 1.8 to 1. Expected stall for small block engines is 1500-1700 RPM and for big block engines 1700-1900 RPM."

  Doesn't sound like much of a stall to me. :clueless:
:iagree:

I figured about 2000rpm would make a good daily driver.   :dunno:


It should get decent mileage, but I am not sure you will get the performance you hope for.
« Last Edit: January 12, 2008 - 05:04:01 PM by jacksboys »
1971 Dodge Challenger:  360/904/3.23
   
Success is the maximum utilization of the ability that you have. - Zig Ziglar

Offline Nate70

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Re: 340 rebuild
« Reply #35 on: January 12, 2008 - 06:07:54 PM »
so if this is not what I am looking for what kind of stall do you guys recommend?  I know nothing about stall and even what it is used for.  Like I said I want a daliy driver and just more bottom end.  anythig is better than what I currently have.

thanks

Offline 74 340 4speed

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Re: 340 rebuild
« Reply #36 on: January 12, 2008 - 09:54:48 PM »
so if this is not what I am looking for what kind of stall do you guys recommend?  I know nothing about stall and even what it is used for.  Like I said I want a daliy driver and just more bottom end.  anythig is better than what I currently have.

thanks

A stall basically allows the motor to get into the powerband of the cam faster.  Picture it this way.  If you had a 2,000 stall with the 0223 cam that was in your motor, and you took off from a dead stop at wide open throttle, it would be like taking off in a manual transmission car with the same cam in 3rd gear.  The 3400 stall that was in the car was matched very well to the cam you had.  It would be like having a manual trans and taking of in 1st gear at wide open throttle.  I have the same cam in my 340 that you had in yours when you tore it down, so I know it is pretty radical for the street, especially an auto. 

I think that this comp cams grind would better suit you.

CCA-20-670-4
233 intake duration/240 exhaust duration @.050"
280 intake duration/287 exhaust duration (advertised)
.474" intake lift/.474" exhaust lift
110 Lobe separation
power band 2200-6000.

Coupled with a TCI street fighter converter, 3,000 rpm stall speed.  I would also put a shift kit in the trans, and install a good tranny cooler.

FYI, the current cam that was in your 340 had these specs:

248 intake duration/248 exhaust duration @.050"
292 intake duration/229 exhaust duration (advertised)
.508" intake lift/.508" exhaust lift
108 Lobe separation
power band 2800-6200.

I researched the stock 340 cam specs for 1968, and they are more agressive than the cam your engine builder picked out.  I know you do not want to go overboard with a cam, but you still want some performance too.  The stall that he picked out would work well with that cam because it's powerband was from 1300-5600.  It would be a good combination, but it wouldn't have that much performance associated with it.  It would be basically like driving a stock car.  I hope this information helps you out.
« Last Edit: January 12, 2008 - 10:13:24 PM by 74 340 4speed »
Andy
1967 Camaro SS: 406 sbc 505 hp/506 ft lbs|4 speed|Posi|3.73s
1969 C/10  350|Turbo 350
1969 Dodge D300 318|4 speed|Dana|4.88s
1972Nova: 350|Turbo 350
1974 'Cuda: 340|4 speed|Dana 60|4.10s|posi
1999 Camaro SS: Auto|Longtube Headers|True Duals|TT2s
2013 Challenger R/T: 6 speed|Hurst with pistol grip|mopar performance exhaust|super track pak

Offline tactransman

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Re: 340 rebuild
« Reply #37 on: January 12, 2008 - 10:30:29 PM »
This is how I recommend an "off the shelf " converter.
Milder engine,3.23-3.55 gears,TCI Breakaway Converter
Healthy engine,3.55-3.91 gears,TCI Street Fighter converter
Bas A$$ engine,3.91-4.10 gearsbuilt for performance,streetabilty least concern,TCI Super Street Fighter converter.
Terry-tactransman 
Torqueflite/Automatic Transmission Specialist
Union, Mo.
Give a man a fish and he eats for a day,teach him to fish and he eats for a lifetime.

Offline go-fish

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Re: 340 rebuild
« Reply #38 on: January 12, 2008 - 10:33:41 PM »
It would be nice to see more companies make mopar heads.  I would love to see an AFR small block mopar head.  I just bought a set of Street 195CC runner AFR eliminators for my 406 thats going in my 67 Camaro, and at .550" lift, they are flowing 280 cfm on the intake side and 211 on the exhaust.   Are there any other charts on mopar heads that show what each particular one flows?  I am interested to see what the market is offering now.  I found this one that has a huge amount of heads.  http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tablehdc.htm#Chrysler   Check out the unported commando flow numbers, @ .600 lift.  245cfm intake, and 166cfm exhaust vs, a brodix B1 BA, 195 CC runner flowing 263 cfm intake and 195 cfm exhaust @ .600 lift.


From a Moparts thread:
"This is a follow up of the Indy heads I posted #'s on. Cleaned up the chamber around the seats, did a nice valve job, blended the cuts into the bowls, and did a slight rework of the exhaust bowl. Intake port is untouched but I think the S/T is off.
Much better #'s though!!

Lift Old Int. New Int.
.200 134 151
.300 200 220
.400 258 277
.500 300 300
.600 319 320
.650 322 324
.700 318 320
Lift Old Ex. New Ex.
.200 111 128
.300 152 172
.400 187 209
.500 212 231
.600 231 244
.650 236 250
.700 241 253

So it would seem that some detail work really pays off and if Indy fine tuned their finish work they would have a damn good piece!!
2.100x1.600 with a 30° back cut on the intake valve. 1 7/8 tube on the exhaust.
Brian  "

Offline 74 340 4speed

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Re: 340 rebuild
« Reply #39 on: January 13, 2008 - 12:18:25 AM »
Those are small block heads?  :22yikes:  If so, those are rediculous numbers.  What size are the intake runners?  You would need a big roller cam and some serious cubic inches to take advantage of what those heads have to offer.   
Andy
1967 Camaro SS: 406 sbc 505 hp/506 ft lbs|4 speed|Posi|3.73s
1969 C/10  350|Turbo 350
1969 Dodge D300 318|4 speed|Dana|4.88s
1972Nova: 350|Turbo 350
1974 'Cuda: 340|4 speed|Dana 60|4.10s|posi
1999 Camaro SS: Auto|Longtube Headers|True Duals|TT2s
2013 Challenger R/T: 6 speed|Hurst with pistol grip|mopar performance exhaust|super track pak

Offline Jacksboys

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Re: 340 rebuild
« Reply #40 on: January 13, 2008 - 12:25:40 AM »
so if this is not what I am looking for what kind of stall do you guys recommend?  I know nothing about stall and even what it is used for.  Like I said I want a daliy driver and just more bottom end.  anythig is better than what I currently have.

thanks

I would suggest some where in the range of 1800 to 2000 rpm stall for that cam, just try to get the compression about 9:1 since you are planning iron heads.

Also you need to find out for sure which rear gears you have.  I originally had 2.76 gears in mine(thought I had 3.23), and when I changed to 3.23 it felt like I gained another 100 hp.
« Last Edit: January 13, 2008 - 12:28:16 AM by jacksboys »
1971 Dodge Challenger:  360/904/3.23
   
Success is the maximum utilization of the ability that you have. - Zig Ziglar

Offline go-fish

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Re: 340 rebuild
« Reply #41 on: January 13, 2008 - 12:27:58 AM »
Yes, Indy PN# 360-2. Indy Cylinder Head CNC work.

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: 340 rebuild
« Reply #42 on: January 13, 2008 - 05:14:16 AM »
personally I would use a Lunati VooDoo grind over the comp

Challenger - You`ll wish You Hadn`t

Offline Nate70

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Re: 340 rebuild
« Reply #43 on: January 13, 2008 - 09:13:13 AM »
you guys are really awsome(you do more homework then I did in school).  I have 2.73 gears and no sure grip.  I will swith to a 3.23 with sure grip from:

http://www.ringpinion.com/DiffDetails.aspx?DiffID=8&PartsLink=PartCats.aspx%3fSearchMode%3dDiff%26TypeID%3d2%26Type%3dChrysler%26DiffID%3d8%26DiffName%3dChrysler%2b8.75%2b(89%252c41%252c42)

later this year.  In the back of any morpar muscle mag he advertises a complete new 742 with any gear even 3.23 and sure grip for $1050 and no core charge since they cast new casings.

As far as a cam and a torgue converter with 3000 stall, I just think thats a little much for the type of driving I normally do.

And Chryco why Lunati over Comp?

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: 340 rebuild
« Reply #44 on: January 13, 2008 - 02:05:10 PM »
Lunatis are designed for the mopars , Comps are designed for small blck Chevs & do not take advantage of the wider lifter the comp wilol lose 15 Hp or more

Challenger - You`ll wish You Hadn`t