Author Topic: EYE CANDY �70 challenger 6.1 Hemi & 6-speed updated 6-29 video from Hot Rod (Read 118103 times)

thedodgeboys · « **Reply #255 on:** January 06, 2009 - 07:31:07 AM »

Quote from: JS27N0B on January 05, 2009 - 11:21:56 PM

I am getting the voltmeter conversion done as well and was thinking of running both wires to the same stud on the ammeter post on the cluster(do you have a pic of what the conversion looks like, front and rear?) and using the factory engine harness(with some mods) and adding an additional fused wire to the main stud on the starter relay and using this as the main alternator feed and having the original alternator feed wire supplying 12v feed to the underdash harness(with circuit protection)

I am also in the 2 steps forward 3 steps back stage right now so I understand your frustration. I'm still trying to be done for MATS!!

yes I will post all that info tonight.

i was wondering how your cuda was going what trans did you choose?

Bullitt- · « **Reply #256 on:** January 06, 2009 - 07:39:01 AM »

F-N Awesome DB....

71bigblock · « **Reply #257 on:** January 06, 2009 - 09:14:40 AM »

Too ricey?

JS27N0B · « **Reply #258 on:** January 06, 2009 - 05:45:48 PM »

Quote from: thedodgeboys on January 06, 2009 - 07:31:07 AM

yes I will post all that info tonight.

i was wondering how your cuda was going what trans did you choose?

Keisler 4 spd auto.
My build is going to be very similar to the 71 Cuda that keisler did for himself but this has a 6.4L and will not use his paddle shifter for the auto set-up.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3198005

vryfast · « **Reply #259 on:** January 06, 2009 - 06:55:02 PM »

maybe on light colors but my cuda is Plum Crazy and I think it would look great with the darker color

Quote from: 71bigblock on January 06, 2009 - 09:14:40 AM

Too ricey?

thedodgeboys · « **Reply #260 on:** January 06, 2009 - 09:02:13 PM »

Quote from: 71bigblock on January 06, 2009 - 09:14:40 AM

Too ricey?

I didnt notice the yellow wheels Steve

My car will have the black in the wheels its a strech just to add the mod to the stripe.

thedodgeboys · « **Reply #261 on:** January 10, 2009 - 03:56:09 PM »

Quote from: JS27N0B on January 05, 2009 - 11:21:56 PM

I am getting the voltmeter conversion done as well and was thinking of running both wires to the same stud on the ammeter post on the cluster(do you have a pic of what the conversion looks like, front and rear?) and using the factory engine harness(with some mods) and adding an additional fused wire to the main stud on the starter relay and using this as the main alternator feed and having the original alternator feed wire supplying 12v feed to the underdash harness(with circuit protection)

JS27NOB

Let me know if you have questions, I am happy to help or compare notes.

If you are having you cluster converted from interment specialties it will not have a stud to mount the wires too. (#635)

I connected my amp gauge wires to each other with a small bolt and then 2 layers of heat shrink tubing.(#649 I removed the small wire in final assembly)
I ran a jumper terminal from the 12v gauge feed to the new voltmeter so I would maintain switch current instead of live power from the 2 wires for the amp gauge.(#51 & 53)
I also deleted the alternator wire running into the plug from the alternator, it is no longer needed with the circuit complete under the dash and the potential of 170 amps being fed to the inside of the car should be protected through the fusible link from the factory wiring harness. I attached the alternator to the battery terminal on the starter relay. (firewall plug)

ShelbyDogg · « **Reply #262 on:** January 10, 2009 - 04:11:07 PM »

When I ran my alternator wire to the starter relay bolt, I added a piece of fusible link wire right there. This will keep your alternator from shorting out your battery and melting it down, All I could find in my tool box was a roll of 16 gauge fusible link wire, so I double it up when I made mine.
Rob

thedodgeboys · « **Reply #263 on:** January 10, 2009 - 04:21:16 PM »

Quote from: shelbydogg on January 10, 2009 - 04:11:07 PM

When I ran my alternator wire to the starter relay bolt, I added a piece of fusible link wire right there. This will keep your alternator from shorting out your battery and melting it down, All I could find in my tool box was a roll of 16 gauge fusible link wire, so I double it up when I made mine.
Rob

Thats a good ideal rob I was thinking a high amp fuse from a stereo shop.

thedodgeboys · « **Reply #264 on:** January 11, 2009 - 06:04:23 PM »

Added some more pictures and info first is a shot of my amp meter to voltmeter connection.

I also received the connector wires for the AEM box to add a tach signal wire out to the tach.

The pink wire I added to pin 46 is for the tach signal the tan wire in pin 49 is for a shift light I may add later. I figured I would add the pin why I was at it just in case Mopar made me buy 5 wires for $25.00. Ya got to love marketing�

I only needed one wire that should have already been hooked up.

It was easy just push the wire with the pin attached into the harness connector I figured I would have to take it apart and feed it through the front.
I now have to configure the AEM box to send the signal;

I am still reading up on how that part works.

thedodgeboys · « **Reply #265 on:** January 11, 2009 - 06:10:37 PM »

the pin location on the plug

wally426ci · « **Reply #266 on:** January 11, 2009 - 06:27:35 PM »

Holy diagrams, this will be a nice car. So, is this in addition to your '71 or is this going to be someone else's car?

JS27N0B · « **Reply #267 on:** January 11, 2009 - 11:30:10 PM »

Quote from: thedodgeboys on January 11, 2009 - 06:04:23 PM

Added some more pictures and info first is a shot of my amp meter to voltmeter connection.

I also received the connector wires for the AEM box to add a tach signal wire out to the tach.

The pink wire I added to pin 46 is for the tach signal the tan wire in pin 49 is for a shift light I may add later. I figured I would add the pin why I was at it just in case Mopar made me buy 5 wires for $25.00. Ya got to love marketing… I only needed one wire that should have already been hooked up.

It was easy just push the wire with the pin attached into the harness connector I figured I would have to take it apart and feed it through the front.
I now have to configure the AEM box to send the signal; I am still reading up on how that part works.

Great information so far!

From the top, thanks for the photos of the cluster, I have just test fit my dash frame with new pad in an hour ago and was going to start with the ECM mounting and wiring harness mods next. I plan on mounting the AEM ecm in place of the drivers side fresh air housing. The car will have air so why would I need fresh air right? The fusible link situation I will check on at work tomorrow. The current Mopar cars/trucks have a fusible link right in the alternator wiring that I will check to see if it is serviceable seperately. This is what I was planning on having in the new power supply to the alternator/starter relay stud. I was thinking of wiring the AEM main power supply harness to the old alternator wiring inside the vehicle(fused) as this harness(AEM) runs everything, pump, fans etc and I suspect would be too much current for the factory 16 guage fuselink off the starter stud and I'm trying to keep the extra wiring visible to a mininum. Those are great shots of the AEM connector, where did you get that info from?? I see the AEM processor must be a motorcraft unit so couldn't you buy extra wires from Ford at a possible savings? I haven't yet played with the AEM controller but I was thinking it may be possible to turn on the fan relays at certain temps like stock as I have a Viper cooling fan module or it's possible it is already programmed this way. Is there a list of possible future functions like the tach and shift light that can be enabled or disabled?

Thanks
JS

ShelbyDogg · « **Reply #268 on:** January 12, 2009 - 12:06:30 AM »

Quote from: JS27N0B on January 11, 2009 - 11:30:10 PM

I was thinking of wiring the AEM main power supply harness to the old alternator wiring inside the vehicle(fused) as this harness(AEM) runs everything, pump, fans etc and I suspect would be too much current for the factory 16 guage fuselink off the starter stud and I'm trying to keep the extra wiring visible to a mininum.
JS

I run a separate fusible link or fuse to supply voltage to your control unit originating also from the starter relay stud. I then run a 10 gauge wire with it's own connector through the firewall, then to my module , BYPASSING the small factory bulkhead spade connector. Your computer will love the full battery voltage without the voltage drop of the small original wiring. The factory connector is barely large enough to run the lights, radio and blower motor.

Rob

ChallengerGary · « **Reply #269 on:** January 12, 2009 - 05:39:12 PM »

Quote from: thedodgeboys on January 04, 2009 - 10:08:53 PM

I may play with some other options before I order a stripe from Gary if he will make it for me.

No problem! How's $75.00 sound

Author Topic: EYE CANDY �70 challenger 6.1 Hemi & 6-speed updated 6-29 video from Hot Rod (Read 118103 times)

thedodgeboys

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