proportioning valve installed, now more issues

[sleepychallenger]

ok, i finally got the proportioning valve installed  however  the brake light, on the dash, wont go off. can i change out the switch on the proportioning valve to see if it is bad? The brake pedal also goes really far down and then the front brakes grab great, we bled the system for like an hour so i dont think that air is an issue. i do believe that the rear brakes need to be adjusted out, but i dont know if that would affect pedal travel. someone help please.

[Chryco Psycho]

 the valve in the proportioning valve is off center, it should correct pushing the pedal hard , if not you may have to open a line in the front or rear to reset the switch
you probably need a larger bore master to get the brakes to hit faster near the top of the pedal travel

[sleepychallenger]

Chryco,

how do i check this? what line do i have to open? i am running a 73 satelite master cylinder and prop valve for disc brakes.?

[Chryco Psycho]

try pushing on the pedal hard a few times to center the valve , if this doesn`t work try cracking the bleed screw on the front or rear brakes & pushing on the pdeal hard again , this should move the valve that triggers the switch
 you can measure the bore from the rear of the master cylinder , you may need to move to a larger bore to keep the pedal from dropping as low as it does now , as long as you are sure there is no air in the system , I assume the bleed screws are positioned at the top of the calipers not the bottom

[sleepychallenger]

yep. i will have to try all of that. i meant to add to this. the pedal is really hard when the car is off and i push it.

[Chryco Psycho]

Power brakes are always very hard when the car is off & no vacuum is available to assist

[sleepychallenger]

gotcha. im reachn' where i can.

[hemiken]

You should still have a softer peddle on the first pump while the car is off unless you have a faulty vacuum hose and it is leaking back.

[sleepychallenger]

i do have a poor vacuum grommet on the booster. the original check valve thing exploded on me one day, i went to the parts store and got a universal one and that one is poop. wondering if that could be part of the problem  now?

[hemiken]

I would swap it out for an original that fits correctly just to be on the safe side.
And it just may be a cheap fix.

[sleepychallenger]

i stomped on the brakes really hard, then they locked up and wouldnt release. they finally let go but the car smells like really bad burned brakes. By the time i came out to go back to work from lunch they released but the brake pedal was really stiff and the brakes would not engage. it took some time but they finally started working like they were before i stompped them. does this point to that darn <---(Use harsher word here) valve

[Chryco Psycho]

something is not releasing in the brake system , it could be inside the proportioning valve or the residual pressure valve in the master

[sleepychallenger]

it is a brand new master, think it could be bad. i hit the brakes hard before and the released, that was before i put the prop in this past weekend

[sleepychallenger]

chryco,

I know physically looking at the two there is a difference in the resivior area, but is there other differences between the 70 master cylinder and the 73 master cylinder. is there a fluid flow difference that i need to be looking at. i have the 73 MC on my 70 car. i have the 11" drums in the rear, could this be part of my problem?

[hemiken]

Can you take a picture of the two master cylinders side by side and post up, sounds as if you have a drum to drum master fitted..................