Building a 500/400 F.F.E. with Mega-Squirt

[airfueleddie]

I had to buy the emery boards and small file at a ladies dept. store. They were staring at me! Anyways, I used a piston as a squaring tool.

[airfueleddie]

#3

[airfueleddie]

#4

[airfueleddie]

I also checked the groove clearance. It specs at .0015 and it was I also checked Piston#8 and it was the same. These Keith Black Forged Pistons appear to be a high quality part at a reasonable price.

[airfueleddie]

This missed my shop by 100 ft.

[airfueleddie]

These homes were a total loss, as well as the cars. Preety bad day. Although Iowa is in even worse shap than us. Way worse. I have prgressed some with the stroker project. I checked main oil clearances and it's .002 perfect for hard street/strip usage.

[airfueleddie]

Oil clearances.

[airfueleddie]

another

[airfueleddie]

It's kinda hard to see the plastigauge. I need to buy a Machine shop quality Starret/Goodson dial bore gauge! They are quite expensive for a good one though. Maybe Chryco would know where a good place/price is for one.(I have a feeling he would tell me to save my money)

[airfueleddie]

Maybe this is better

[airfueleddie]

The one thing I have learned is to drill and tap the main caps for a puller, Dang, that was the hardest part of the job,(so far)!!LOL

[airfueleddie]

The R/T is OK.

[Jacksboys]

Glad the water missed you.  I drove through those states last week and could not believe the amount of water around there.

Engine is looking good.   

[Chryco Psycho]

Save your money , you will not use a dial bore guage enough to warrant the cost , a set of micrometers might be worth buying though
 Glad the water missed you & the R/T at least , we are follding around here as well

[airfueleddie]

Thanks JacksBoy, at least were not as bad as Iowa, I coudnt imagine that. Chryco thanks for the input! I have  set of outside mics. But not a mic that takes inside measurements. Is there such a mic that does that at a resonable cost? Thanks! BTW, Chryco, or anyone else, is there an easier way to remove the main caps? It took me almost an hour and I 'slipped' and dropped a main cap thru the bore onto the "cardboard pad" I placed on the ground below my stand, Whew, it could have been 'gouge city' for the crank journal or cylinder bore,(glad I had the adjoining ones covered in anticipation of such an event. I thought about drilling and tapping the Cast Iron Caps but hesitated, in fear of potential stress cracks?