Building a 500/400 F.F.E. with Mega-Squirt

[airfueleddie]

Got the girdle installed today. I found a little better way to set the shim pack. With the feeler gauges it was difficult to gauge the distance between the space under the machinsts square. So I took my shim-stack and simply kept stacking it until the washers wouldnt spin anymore and that was the shimstack needed!

[airfueleddie]

I cleaned the oil pan rail because this area is going to recieve a smear of silicone/adhesive MoPar Black, I scraped it clean with a razor then washed it spotless with a degreaser.

[airfueleddie]

I had to enlarge the rear oil pan holes in the girdle to accomodate the studs. It only needed a little clearancing to fit over everything. The girdle fits very precise with NO play or movement once seated on the mains. Here it is fully installed! Strong! No? I also took a .030 feeler gauge and measured very carefully around the crank counterweights. It cleared everywhere although close in some places. I guess this may help act as a 'scraper' but those are much closer than that. Input appreciated.

[airfueleddie]

I've posted so many pics it's hard to tell sometimes if I have posted any redudndant pics, sorry if I have. Here is the rear main seal I purchased from Mancini racing last year. Fancy billet!

[airfueleddie]

another of the seal. A funny thing is they still want you to use RTV on the seal! I did and it fits very snug in the block. I stretched the dual o-rings into place and slid the ret. over the gude pins they provided then when in place I removed the guide pins and installed the recessed 12 point fasteners. It should/better seal like a vault!

[Chryco Psycho]

looks good 
 I generally use some RTV on the sides of the rear main seal cap

[airfueleddie]

Thanks Chryco! Think I should do that? I have dis-assembled/assembled it carefully many times and really dont mind if you think it's gonna be a problem. I appreciate the input guys!

[airfueleddie]

I cant sleep at night thinking about that rear seal and what Chryco said. I went ahead and tore it back down to inspect that seal carefully and place some RTV on both the sides and the very bottom of the block/retainer mating point. Thanks Chryco, this may have prevented a messy oil leak! I also tore the side O-rings on dis-assembly,(it fits very snug in the block), and ordered a new set from Mancini Racing.

[airfueleddie]

Every manufacturer has it's moment in the sun engineering wise. This is Fords contribution. The EDIS-8, it's simple, effective, and can be easily,(I sure hope so), interfaced with the MS PCM. This is all thats needed to produce a 65k volt spark to the plugs. It even has a "limp home mode" if it loses the signal from the trigger wheel and will advance at 10 BTDC all the time until repairs are performed. It's very reliable.

[airfueleddie]

Chryco, here is a pic of the retainer. I have overly dramatised this to ensure we are on the same understanding. The offset you described to me regards the seal as it lays in the retainer and the block correct? The offset simply is moving the seal so the parting line is not the same as the blocks parting line like this pic right?(But overly done to emphasize the offset). Next is the "lip" it faces towards the oil right? The lip is the solid edge that protrudes like a duckbill correct? The backside that faces outward has a groove cut into the seal correct? Thanks a lot man.  Eddie

[airfueleddie]

The correct side facing the oil, is the lip or part that looks like a duckbill kinda.

[Chryco Psycho]

the offset is correct , the seal pic is too blurred to see the lip clearly but the lip has to face the oil

[airfueleddie]

OK I got ya Chryco! Thanks a bunch man! :thumbsup:Sorry to bug you like that I just wanted to make sure. It's funny, the last engine I built used a rope seal. I guess I'm getting older than I thought.

[Chryco Psycho]

Rope seals are old school 

[airfueleddie]

Yeah, rope seals, stone cutters, ring ridge cutters, ect I had to change out or modernize my old tools.